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Navigator auto advance unit

Submitted by steve_kilbey on Mon, 06/06/2011
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Light Twins

I am setting up the ignition and struggling to get an even tickover, examination of the rear of the points carrier plate shows that the auto advance weights are hitting the back (of the points plate). The weights appear to be loose on the pivot pins. Could someone tell me how to remove the auto advance unit from the end of the camshaft as I need to replace or refurbish.

Thanks,

Steve

Submitted by tony_ripley on Mon, 06/06/2011

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Hi Steve,

Once you have removed the centre bolt holding the auto advance unit on the end of the camshaft you will find a thread on the inside of the unit, you then need to make a slide hammer which will screw into the thread and shock the unit out. I can probably show you a picture if required.

Having said this, it is really a waste of time, you will struggle to get an even tickover and smooth running with the mechanical system. Have you considered changing to electronic ?

I have a Boyer fitted to my Electra and it makes it run smoother and once the timing is set up it never moves.

Can be bought from the NOC spares scheme.

Regards

Tony

Submitted by steve_kilbey on Mon, 06/06/2011

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Thanks for the reply Tony,

I did manage to get the unit off by making a short rod to fit down the centre and used a bolt to press against the rod and draw the unit off. The wear appears to be in the weights rather than the pivot pins. I will try to sleeve the holes on my return from holiday. If that is not sucessful then I will have to consider the electronics route.

Thanks again,

Steve

Submitted by alan_osborn on Wed, 13/07/2011

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First removal of mechanical A/R unit, after removing the bolt just tap the A/R unit gently sideways-it will soon pop off its taper.

Electronic-fit a Boyer set up. This is made easier if you have the original 6V system as you can use the original Wipac 6V coils. But the Boyer system and the rest of the bike needs to be made 12V. The alternator will do this easy enough, but you will need battery and bulbs (12V) Horn maybe. For 12V regulation either Fit a Zener on a heat sink OR fit a new type regulator/rectifier. Also a capacitor is recommended, as you will loose the emergency start facility when going to 12V and the capacitor reduces kickback when starting with a flat battery. I sell all the clever bits of this system but not batteries and bulbs.

Al Osborn A O Services.

 


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