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Model 7 Pre-Monobloc...running rich?

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Hi Chaps...perhaps you can speed up the process of finding out why my M7 starts to run slightly rough, perhaps 8 stroking every time I start to lean the bike into a curve. This happens in top gear around 40MPH or so but I haven't gone over 50MPH as I'm breaking it in.

I lowered the needle with the clip in the top notch (Std is No2 from top) but I'm not convinced it made much difference. It could be of course the float level is too high but it never floods and everything looks good and it's difficult to measure anyway. Another thing is that if itwas the wrong float height one would imagine that if tilted one way it would be rich and the other way it would run lean since the float bowl is very much over to the left hand side.

Anyway in a hope of sorting it out that much more quickly I was hoping someone might have had the same problem and had sorted it. This would save me a lot of fiddling about as the carb top is difficult to access under the tank and I don't want to take the tank off over and over again if I can help it.

I realise it could well be the needle and original needle jet is very worn but I would like to hear from anyone who might have had similar misfiring on their M7...very much obliged....Les

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Hi Les, I assume this is a monobloc we are talking about and you have looked at the obvious of sticky float valve or leaky float. I used to have a temporary float chamber cover made of perspex through which you could see the level which proved its worth on the odd occasion. If it's a pre monobloc you have my sympathy they can be sods for getting the float set right.

No direct experience of 8 stroking or Norton's come to that as mine is not yet on the road. In fact this is probably not of much use to you at all but as I have only asked questions so far I thought I would throw my four Penn'th in until someone with an authoritative thought comes along.

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HI Les, Sounds like your fuel level is a couple of mm too high. Its possible you have a mix up of parts .If everything else works ok I would cut another groove in your float needle . All you need is a mini hacksaw and a pistol drill , Put the needle in the drill and butt the saw blade against the chuck. rotate the chuck against the blade and move the blade forward. I used a tiny file to tidy up. You need the float to sit lower in the chamber. You could also take out the tickler and try the bike without it as it could be sitting too low.There is more than one type of needle jet that will fit in the carb body and they need different fuel levels, and a different type of slide needle. You dont usually need to take the tank off to get at the float .

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Hi Les, on your pre monobloc, the fuel level must be just beneath the idle mixture screw hole (any higher, and petrol will weep outwhen upright with engine stopped and run rich). This can be checked by removing the small blanking screw on the outer edge of the bowl banjo and either pressing a length of clear plastic tube over hole and turn on the fuel, observing how high it rises in the tube against the side of carburettor, or making a hose barb that screws into the blanking hole and then connecting on the clear hose. The petrol height is adjusted by using either one of the 3 different length mixing chamber nuts. Also, ensure that the correct fibre washer is fitted between the jet block and mixing chamber nut and the two correct float banjo to mixing chamber nut fibre washers are fitted. The NOC (in think) has the gasket sets, though they are readily available from Burlen.

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Many Thanks Barry, Robert and Paul, an excellent comprehensive set of information... Yes it does seem to be too high a fuel level and now I have the complete range of testing information and also how to change the settings. The carb is bottom fed and the float is the original brass one, still perfect. I did notice thatBurlen Amal shop sells the bottom fed float set up with the needlecut withtwo grooves so I could do as Robert suggests and cut another groove lower down with his clever method.

Now I have all the info, it will be best to go over the entire carb, checking it stage by stage and seeing where things can be set correctly following Paul's superb info....Will be back when it is all done....very much appreciate your help I'm sure otherreaders will find your information very useful too.

Les

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Well as promised I am updating with the results of what I found.

Doing a fuel level check I found this to be OK. (It has the old copper float) I then ordered and replaced the needle (pretty sure it was new before and I already had a new slide) and the needle jet and main jet. The hole in the new needle jet looked very much smaller than the old one making me think they had sent me the wrong one but no it was correct (stamp-wise) so I obviously thought this must be the cause as the old original needle jet must have been extremely worn. Anyway everything put back and initially I thought there was some improvement but alas, after a while, I realised the motor still seems to run slightly rough when cornering around bends to the right AND to the left!

Phoned AMAL Burlen but they had no idea what might be causing this but confirmed the fuel height as 1 5/16" down from the top of the float bowl. So the only thing to do is to lower the fuel height to see what happens but I am reluctant to as the mixture is genuinely perfect (plug clean as a whistle) so don't want to weaken it any more...

Ah haa!... it just strikes me as I type this.... maybe the rough running whilst cornering is fuel starvation and NOT richness ...so maybe I need to raise the fuel level....Oh dear now I have thought of this, I will have to try that approach....Let you know what I find....ta-ta...Les

PS...just coming back again.... with some more scientific thinking...I was wondering if the increased G force on the float would cause the float to sink deeper into the petrol and open up the bottom fed valve causing the fuel level to rise temporarily? OR does the G force push on the fuel as well and maintain the equilibrium?...Fuel is incompressible so the Specific gravity of the petrol would remain the same but the float would indeed become heavier!....Any thoughts?.....Les

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Hi les, I have a similar carb on a big single , as these carbs don't use a pivot system to shut the fuel valve they don't close off as positively as later designs , the fuel may well be a different SG than 60 years ago, so float height measurements from that time are not so meaningfull. you could try a new float needle SEAT. I had the opposite problem fuel level too low ,very poor starting unless really flooded and unreliable tickover. Raising the level has helped.

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I had a pre-monobloc problem that drove me to distraction. Turned out that the scissor spring that grips the float needle was weak allowing the float to move independently of the needle. £2 for a float at an autojumble fixed that. Shame about the top end overhaul and the magneto overhaul...

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Hi Robert. Thanks for your thoughts. Although the float needle and seat are old and likely to be the originals they shut off the fuel very reliably and positively, in fact if I leave the fuel tap on it never floods or even seeps slowly. The recommended level Amal supplied is the fuel height rather than float height so even if the petrol SG is different (and it will be with ethanol added) and the seat worn, the two combinations seem to result in the correct fuel height at the petrol surface being obtained. The engine starts with no more than two kicks when cold (with the correct procedure as per the old road tests) & ticks over reliably...it really is baffling to what is causing this odd response on cornering. I have even considered it might be the ignition side of things but everything on the mag is equally in perfect adjustment with a new armature rewind, new bearings and no end float. Maybe I do need I higher fuel level as you suggest but what seems crazy is that the problem occurs when the bike is cornered in in both left and right directions, so with the float chamber slung off to the left of the carb main body it does not make sense....but yes I will try a higher fuel level and report back....Les

PS Hi Gordon just seen your post as I did this one. You are quite right about the scissor clip on the float my one was very loose but I spotted this and with thin pliers tweeked the clip to really grip the groove so I have now to eliminate this possiblity but useful info all the same....Thanks again.

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Just had an idea, if the top of the needle is not long enough to fully locate in the cap the float would tip on cornering and jam then flood. Also I had a problem with the tickler being too close a fit to the float once I got the fuel level right and that caused flooding.

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Many thanks Robert for giving this odd problem some extra thought, but everything mechanical, float wise, is or appears to be quite intact. What you suggest would indeed create a problem but the needle does fit and move freely in the top cap hole which is completely unblocked. Because of the continued rain showers here, I have to wait for a good dry spell to retest the bike to remind myself what is happening. I've never known anything like this problem ever before, One could just ignore the slight change in engine tone and feel that occurs on sweeping bends but I know it's not right but I could get used to it. I will try a lower and higher fuel level by making extra needle grooves below and above as you've already suggested. To make certain the adjustment is being "seen" by the engine I will make them + & - 4mm and do some more test runs weather permitting. Thanks again will eventually come back on this.....Les

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Les, be careful raising the float on the float needle, as the top of the float runs close to the 'tickler' standard, and may foul causing the bowl to flood if too high.

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Thanks for the warning Paul....I shall look out for that possibility before making the new top needle groove....Les

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Raising the float on the needle would richen. I raised my fuel level by 3mm to cure bad starting and had to chop a similar amount off the tickler.

 


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