English French German Italian Spanish

Model 50m Alternator - continuing saga !

Submitted by mike_haworth on Tue, 07/08/2018
Forums
Singles

Many thanks to al those who have previously posted advice to me on this subject. I've taken it on board and progressed with the installation of the new stator and rotor, but I still have issues.........

In order to locate the new stator more securely and compensate for the extra clearance between the three new holes and the three original studs, I have made studs to a larger diameter (threads the same as originals). This hasn't worked as the stator is un movable and therefore the 0.008" gap between the stator and rotor is unachieveable. I've had to revert to two of the original studs and one new one to get the desired adjustment. All this is further aggravated by the rotor running nearly 0.010" out of true.

Anyway, I have achieved a gap of at least 0.008" between the stator and rotor throughout the whole 360 degree rotation. BUT, will it stay like that ? The maintenance of this gap is largely dependent on the nuts being tight enough, and remaining tight enough, to allow no movement of the stator. The stator's critical precise location is dependent on this. Dare I run it ? But if I don't what other options have I ?

Mike Haworth

Submitted by gordon_johnston on Tue, 07/08/2018

Permalink

With original Lucas alternators, there was a little shuffle room to get the desired 8 thou gap before tightening the nuts up so if these nuts came loose you could have problems even back then. So as long as you torque up the nuts properly, you should be fine.

Submitted by bob_matthews on Tue, 07/08/2018

Permalink

Previously mike_haworth wrote:

All this is further aggravated by the rotor running nearly 0.010" out of true.

Then it's the rotor that's at fault or the end of the crankshaft that is running out of true?

If this is the case, then you will always have trouble as you're concentrating on the stator and that's not where the problem lies, it's with the rotor or crankshaft.

Submitted by david_cooper on Tue, 07/08/2018

Permalink

Is there supposed to be an alloy cradle to carry the stator? My twin has one but last time I looked at the usual suppliers web site it was not stocked.

Submitted by mike_haworth on Wed, 08/08/2018

Permalink

Previously Barry Carson wrote:

Hello Mike, is your mounting the same as in the attatched photo. its of a 1960 model 50 engine

Barry

Hi Barry,

Yes, exactly the same. Mine is a 1959 model. The prospect of pulling apart an engine that has just been rebuilt to try and rectify the runout on the crank shaft, as someone has suggested, is daunting. Right now I have the desired clearance. If the three retaining nuts hold the stator to the cage with no movement I guess it should be OK. If not, then a second disaster is on the cards and, at £200 a pop, I don't want that.

Mike

Submitted by ian_soady on Wed, 08/08/2018

Permalink

When you say the rotor is running out of true, is it just the rotor or is the crankshaft itself out of true? If it's the crankshaft, .010" seems an awful lot. If it's just the rotor, maybe the woodruff key is holding it off centre or there's a bit of swarf in there somewhere. The rotor has to be a fairly easy fit otherwise you'd never get it on and off.

 


Norton Owners Club Website by 2Toucans