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Mk.lll clutch

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Evening all,

I have a question my clutch is slipping but only in first gear. It lets go at about 4,000rpm. It has new clutch plates and a upgrade spring design to keep the diapham flat. (hope that correct)

So is it normal for clutchs to only slip in first. How do I check it not just poor adjustment.?

Regards

Phil

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Hi Phil,

If the clutch is actually slipping then it will always slip more in the high gears than the low so I am puzzled if it only slips in 1st.

If you are in top at 4000 rpm (about 70 MPH with my 'as built by Norton' setup). and you wind on the power, are you saying the clutch does not slip ?

Does the clutch operate smoothly ?

I cannot think of any way adjustment could cause this problem, more information is required. Sorry, I have no answer.

Tony

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Philip,

I am assuming you are using a triplex chain primary drive, rather than one of these elastic band jobs?

That being the case: what oil are you putting in there? SAE 20? ATF? or the manual specified 20/50? SAE 30 is OK too. Don't put anything even slightlysynthetic in there or you will be lucky to have any drive at all!

As Tony suggests, you are more likely to encounter slip in a higher gear as you wind back the throttle. Why just first gear is a mystery unless this is just from cold and after that all is well?

If you don't do this already, pull in the clutch and kick over the motor to ensure the clutch is free. Between use, especially long periods of standing these plates tend to gum up. Either a good long run or a strip down and wash in petrol tends to do the trick.

Otherwise just change up in first before 4K RPM. (Try it again with a warmed up motor and clutch)

Most important, please let us know how you get on.

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Hi Tony and Neil,

Thank you for your reply, a well known restorer has put Miller Classic sport 20/50 in primary case. I have now done my home work and that oil is semi synthetic. So that is my first job to drain that out. Going to put 20/50 mineral in their and see how it goes then in hope i do not have to strip it all.

Sorry for the delay was away on holiday.

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You may have to strip and clean the plates before replacing the oil, as just changing the oil may not be enough. I suspect that, as Neil says, semi-synthetic is the problem.

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Ian,

Will i have to take all of the primary chain case apart to get the clutch plates out or can i just remove them from the clutch basket. Thanks for your reply.

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I would just try changing the oil first, Philip, as that is quick and easy. It may work, but I have had experience of another make of machine which, the wrong oil having been added to the clutch, needed the plates removing from the basket in order to clean off the contamination, before it would work properly. It was really just to prepare you that may be needed, but hopefully not.

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By all means try it, Philip, but the best way is to soak the plates in petrol, although some clutch spray cleaner worked well with a good rub to total clean with a very clean cloth.

Remember, never anything even slightly synthetic in the primary chain case.

I use ATF, the red stuff in my Mk 3 Commando primary chain case without issue.

You only need to take the outer case off but don't forget the diafram extractor!!!!!!!

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Hi Niel,

I am very new to doing my own maintenace, happy to take off primary chain case cover, but the the technical section talks about taking the primary chain off etc. Can i just leave that all in place and just pull the plates clean and put back.

I have read ATF should not be used in MK3 due to the chain tensioner not liking it or is that just an old advice.

Thanks for replying

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Hi philip

If you take the primary cover off thats all you need to do to get axis to the clutch

you will need a specal tool to hold the diafram and and take the tension out then remove the large circlip and the diafram will fall out and then tke clutch plates slide off the shaft . make shure you put them back in the right order ie steel plate and phospher bronze plate

you can buy or make the diafram tool but dont try with out one .

atf seems ok in my mk3 but then i dont do many miles per year and its easy to see a oil leak as atf is red.

regards

Bob

Bob

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Philip, Robert explained the situation.

Don't try removing diaphragm without the extractor tool to hold it in place or it may do you serious harm!

Keep the plates in the same order as this also helps with mating surfaces. Ideally, with a suitable receptacleof petrol, place the plates in order so that the last plate out is on top. Before seeing to the plates, clean the inside of the clutch housing and the inner case to remove any trace of synthetics.

Give the plates a good rub with a very clean cloth to remove or reduce any oil residue. Petrol containing the solvent, Ethanol is ideal for this task though not recommended for inside your petrol tank. (EN228)

Once all put back together it is recommended that you prime the chain tensioners, though to be honest, with ATF up to the level plug on the centre stand this should happen automatically.

If you stillsuffer clutch slip, put the bike on the side stand and allow excess ATF from the level plug. This is the minimum level so you need so keep an eye on it. As Robert says, with ATF being red you can easily see it. However, I would recommend you change the ATF every year, as it will eventually turn brown.

Hope this helps and good luck.

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Thank you to all have replied you have given me the confidence to give it ago. I will keep you inform howI get on in weeks to come.

Regards

Phil

 


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