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Loose clutch bearing 60 99

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I'm thinking of replacing my bearing rollers with plus 1 or 2 thou oversize ,has anyone tried this?. the bearing tracks on the hub and drum all look fine and I am loth to replace orriginal parts with new pattern parts, not had much luck with new stuff. Would also be good to have some measurements of tracks to assess where the wear is, Does anyone have orriginal parts blueprints?.

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Thanks Bob for confirming what I already guessed, no one has got a clue!!. All those techy guys have popped their clogs, I bet John Hudson would have had it filed away in his mind.

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Those bearings only help to permit and control the spinning basket when the clutch is disengaged. So if you reckon they might benefit from bearing rollers being about 1 thou bigger, what's the benefit? It doesn't matter if it wobbles a bit when disengaged - they all do that anyway.

If you "don't have much luck with new parts" then it strikes me you'd be making your own unnecessary bad luck by doing this. I'd sort out real issues (if there are any) - not invent non-existent ones.

Just my opinion - sadly over the years I've made plenty of minor improvements which have either provided no benefit or made things worse in some unexpected way.

ps I doubt if you will find technical drawings with tolerances etc. - I'd have thought those things are valuable commercial items. Maybe Anna has some?

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My 40M has no roller cage, but it has some 50 rollers. I'm told this was a common practise amongst racers.

Don't know if this is a good or bad modification. Anyway will keep it as a part of the bike's history. Not sure if it has any effect on wobble.

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After my experience of clutch centers made from silvery looking hard cheese I am reluctant to invest in a new drum when the orriginal 57 year old one appears unworn, Too much bearing clearance allows the plain plates to rub on the inside of the drum and the raised parts of the center are also marked when they should not be. This stops the clutch being lifted cleanly and makes drag.As new parts cannot be trusted I have to find another way. The 50 loose rollers would provide better support ,they would need to be crowded to stay put and sounds like fun to fit!!. I had not considered this as an option although the Rudge has this modification too and works a treat. Thanks Mikael.

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Loose rollers are used in lots of other clutches including the Triumph 750, you just need to ensure you fit one less than the space allows so they have room to spin without rubbing against each other. As to whether you should fit std or 1 thou over you could consider the Commando ball bearing used in the same position which is C2 fit ie less than std clearance and is to reduce the wobble of the clutch basket, note reduce not eliminate which would too little clearance.

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After some carefull measuring it would appear that plus 1 thou rollers giving an extra 2 thou o/all will fit leaving about 1 thou clearance. Plus 2 thou rollers will not fit as that adds 4 thou o/all. The drum track does not show any wear and the rollers none either so it would appear that any wear is on the inner track. Those folk who think they can run a dry primary are likely storing up a problem for the future.

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hello dominator loose clutch basket bearings are 1/4 dia can be bought from RGM but if your clutch basket is worn the only way is to replace it with a new one from RGM Motors yours Annaj

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I got 1.5 thou oversize rollers to take up 3 thou of play in a big end, I had to buy 50 and only needed 25. I got them from Eriks many years ago, they ordered them in and it took a week for them to arrive.

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I can get 1 thou o/s rollers from the internet but they will cost 30-40 quid, bit over the top only worth a fiver really. Don't like to be ripped off!!. How much did your 50 cost john ?.

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Previously robert_tuck wrote:

I'm thinking of replacing my bearing rollers with plus 1 or 2 thou oversize ,has anyone tried this?. the bearing tracks on the hub and drum all look fine and I am loth to replace orriginal parts with new pattern parts, not had much luck with new stuff. Would also be good to have some measurements of tracks to assess where the wear is, Does anyone have orriginal parts blueprints?.

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Hi Robert, I don't know if your 1960 clutch is the same asones from afew years earlier, but, I just measured athree of my new original inner tracks which fits my 1951 clutch.

They varied from 3.250" 3.2495" 3.2485"

Another worn one was 3.240" with a very obvious burred edge.

I also measured a couple of used basket drum tracks,

they came up as 3.760" and 3.755"

The inner tracks suffer most as the drum is rotating constantly with the clutch pulled andengine running, wear is distributed evenly around the track, while the inner is stationary with any given one spot on track taking all the weight.

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Robert, about £8 at the time but at least 10 years ago, there are branches of Eriks all around the UK just go to their website and it has a branch finder. I will root out the bag of spare rollers as there may be a makers name on the label. When I have put loose clutch rollers together before the last 4 or 5 rollers will take some pressure to feed in, fingertips will turn red with the force unless the clutch is in the primary with the chain tensioned then you feed them in on the loose side and move them to the tight side before feeding more in the loose side, greasing helps and a small amount is not a problem to the clutch.

Maker is Atlas Ball

http://atlasball.co.uk/FrontPage.htm

Walsall UK

Credit cards accepted, hopefully no minimum £, the steel rollers I bought were 1/4 x 1/4 plus 1.5 thou in a bag of 50, I used 24 in a B44 big end and have 26 left, enough to do another big end.

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Thankyou Paul and John, both coming up with usefull information not availiable elsewhere, exactly what this forum should be about. A close study of the inner track reveals what Paul mentions.General wear plus localised wear at one point. The rollers and drum appear not to wear at anything like the same rate. It would also appear that as little as 2 thou wear is enough to allow the drum to wobble( or be pulled by the chain) to allow the outer edges of the plain plates to dig into the drum and part of the friction plate to cut into the outer faces of the hub (which is new). Like others I had not realised that drum wobble must be restricted . I have also noted that the back of the spider has again been in contact with the sleeve gear despite grinding a clearance last time. The spider register is clearly failing to lock on the spline and allows the clutch to migrate towards the box. Time for a new spider ,lets hope it has a proper register ,I will post my findings.

 



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