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Jubilee/Navigator restoration

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I've been talking about it plenty so thought I'd start documenting the rebuild of my jubilee/navigator.

This all started because like many I had one of these when I was 17, but I felt that I aught to be able iron most of the problems that manifessed itself on my old bilke and maybe imrove it enough to use it in some competitions! I hope to share what I learn or find out so we can keep it as a library of what works and what doesnt!

So far this is what I bought, a nearly complete jubilee with roadholder forks as a box of bits from ebay and a navigator, engine frame seat and tank from an NOC member similarly disassembled!

pics below

Frame forks and tanks

[IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/deperatedan/335_zpsea0eb5e0.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Engine partly dismanteld

[IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/deperatedan/332_zpse70680cb.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Navigator engine in pieces

[IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/deperatedan/336_zps8e9ff9b2.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

I have bought new barrels and pistons and a whole load of other stuff from the club and should start in earnest this weekend.

Dan

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Have returned enthused by the Telford classic off road and racing show I thought I'm make a start in earnest!

While waiting for a replacement barrel from the club the next decision is the carb, the original item is un economic to repair - cap thread stripped and slide knackered, and so am thinking either a 22mm Mikuni or a "new" Amal .

The Jubilee has a 21mm carb and 51mm between the mounting studs. Mikuni do a 22mm with 50mm between the studs, so with a gentlebit of filing it should fit nicely. Allens performance tell me that they can match the main and pilot and could make a good guess at the needle jet and slide - unless anyone else has done it?

Another option would be buy a decent secondhand 375 and buy new jets and a slide the second number (43) just relates to the jetting so any 375 body should be the same?

Finally I could buy new amal or wassell but I've heard differreing things about their quality?

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Hi Dan,

So it's overalls on time.

There are different bore sizes for the 375 carb. The original Jubilee was officially a 25/32" which translates to 19.844mm. The Navigator had a 7/8" carb.(22.15mm). The Jubilee really needs a bigger carb so 22mm sounds a good choice. In the 1959-60 Maintenance Manual & Instruction Book the full Jubilee spec reads; Amal type 375 Choke size 25/32" Main jet 130 without oil filter Throttle valve 3 1/2" Needle position 3 Pilot jet 25

If you go for a secondhand 375 try to get the right jets and slides because buying new Amal bits costs a lot .And the early copper float should cope with ethanol in the petrol. The book doesn't mention the needle but it's a standard B needle to my knowledge.

That's news to me when you say Mikuni do a 22mm with 50mm stud spacings. Every Mikuni I measured was at 48mm spacing and you can actually break through the outer edge of the flange to make them fit the 2" spacing on British bikes. I have seen carbs in use this way on British bikes (but not a Jubilee) and they do seem to survive reasonably well but I feel that it must weaken the flange.

Maybe somebody has already done this and can provide first hand info,? The Mikuni will give the best results but it might take a bit of work getting it just right. The advantage with the Amal is that it fits and the spec is already known.

The best of luck.

Patrick

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Thanks Patrick, Allens told me that the 22mm Mikuni had 50mm spacing and that seems to be confirmed on their website. An add on ebay lists one as 49mm, but either way making it fit should be easy as it would just be widening the slots 0.5mm or so outwards. Some of the mikuni's actually have slots so that should be ok, the carb only needs to hold its own weight.

[img]http://allensperformance.co.uk/images/carbs/vm20-273f.jpg[/img]

The Mikuni VM24 has a 52mm flange, which would still be acheivable as its still only 0.5 on each side but I think 22mm would be a good size to start.

So far I have found a 51mm flange adaptor but only for a 26mm carb which is prob too big, if I wanted to do without a flange.

I'minterested in the amal figures tho, my 64 jubilee definately has a 21mm manifold and carb (in fact its about 21.2mm). Although that was measured at the mouth

I'll double check the mikuni data with Motocarb in the morning.

Dan

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I didnt get a chance to speak to Motocarb today but I was puzzled by the measurements so did some double checking. My carb is a 375/34 which seems to be from a BSA C15? I havent checked the jetting but it explains why it is 21mm! However I'm puzzled by the manifold. The Parts book lists the jubilee as 20844, mine is marked 20843? The carb end is def 21mm and the head end matches the head pots at 19.4mm. It looks like the carb end might have been opened up a bit to match the carb butits difficult to tell. Its a shame the carb is in such bad shape - knackered slide and barrel with stripped threads on the cap because a refurm would have been good to try, although I expect 34s are easier to find than 43s. II cant see that amal make a new 375 so I'm still left thinking!

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I had an interesting chat with Burlens today, apparently they will be manufacturing some 375s later this year, but I'm looking for something a bit bigger, they can sell me analuminium22mm concentric jetted for a jubilee for about £130 but there is a 6-8 week wait on the 3.5 slide. So I could go for a Mikuni for about £90 but will have to jet it appropriattely (no prob I grew up on jetting 2 strokes!) but it will cost in Jets - esp needle and needle jets. I think I'll talk to Les Emery first and see what he thinks?

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Hi Dan,

Your picture of a modernafter market Mikuni seems to say that this is adifferent carb to the old original Jap fitment flanged Mikuni from way back. I can see that the new style flangecan easily be made to fit on to the Jubilee manifold. The old Mikuni (I think it's a 24) that I have in my box has two round holes at 48mm centres. The Mikuni will almost certainly give the best results if you do some experimenting with the jetting. The Amal is costly but it would look original.

It used to be easy to get s/h Amals at the autojumbles and the BSA ones are common. The Bantam I think used a 7/8" and the later B25 I am sure also used a 7/8" But you have to downsize the jets when fitting to the Jubilee as it's a twin.

Have you thought of picking up a cheap monkey bike Mikuni froman autojumble? They are cheap as a rule - under £20 new- and you can play around with jetting. One from a 140cc monkey bike would be a startingpoint as they use 22mm or 24mm. Some of them have Mikuni marked on them butI wouldn't like to guarantee they are 'real' Mikuni's. I have used them on different projects in the past and generally they worked well. And the price is right - you have to remember that you can spend the price of a Dominator on rebuilding a Jubilee but Jubilees don't fetch much if it comes to selling it on.

Anyway I'm in Northampton at the moment as i'm going to the MG International Show at Stoneleigh on Sunday.So there will be lots of reliable SU's there. They always worked well on MGB's but I'm biased.

Patrick

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Hi Patrick

For some reason the pitbike "mikunis" seem to have an offset flange and Motocarb tell me have fixed needle jetting? I know what you mean about cost but without a decent carb I've no hope of getting a good runner so am prepared to shell out about £100 for the right one. Burlen recon that the new concentrics are much better than the old 375 monoblocks and require a smaller main jet as a consequence? There's also the Wassell of course which many of the classisc scramblers use. I think I'm leaning towards a mikuni but know that the bigger bikes have had difficulty getting them to run well at WOT. I like SUs too but havent seen one small enough for a jubilee!

Dan

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I've parked the carb question for a while, but did speak to Les Emery about the work they did a few years ago to tune the Jubilee, They rotated the heads so they could fit twin carbs and reworked the inlets to be exhausts. They used acrolite pistons and kawasaki valve springs to get it to spin at 11,000 rpm! Somehow I dont think I'll be going that far! A bit of porting and a bigger carb is prob where I'll go, but for the moment I'm concentrating on getting the engine running prettry much as stock as a starting place. My new barrels have arrived as have the pistons. The existing barrels are 30 thou oversize and the piston gap is about 10 thou which I think is too loose to fix with a set of rings so i'll get the new ones bored to match the new pistons asap.

In the meantime I took the clutch cover off, it has a small hole to have welded where it has met the footrest in the past but the worst bit was the chain tensioner..........!!!!surprise

[IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/deperatedan/005_zps366656f5.jpg[/IMG]

I cant say I have ever seen a wooden chain tensioner before! needless to say the oil was a bit bitty!

[IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/deperatedan/007_zps9cd47a7f.jpg[/IMG]

The club has some early tensioners were the later ones bare metal? If I can't find one I'll make one from a nylon block.

My next job is the tank, I have 3 and they are all rusty inside, I'm planning on running an experiment and clean one by electolysis, one by vinegar and the other with diet coke. I'll post some pics when I get them on the go.

Dan

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Hi Dan,

Interesting. Maybe there's a market for these wooden chain tensioners - have you thought about marketing a hi-tec racing version hard carved in mahogany for maximum performance? Both of my standard Navigators have the nylon version.

What was Norvil's purpose in building their Jubilee? Andy Sochanik said in his recent article about the power being progressive over the rev range which seems to indicate that the Jubilee engine was primarily designed for road use(AKA poor breathing) - good driveability rather than max power. Did Norvil do anything with the cam timing and lift as obviously they must have changed over the position of the cam shafts. In it's day the Jubilee was a high revving engine in comparision to say the Dominator which had more low down torque than a 14 litre Scania.

Obviously as you go for wilder cam timing to gain top end power you lose out on the bottom end (you know this with your two stroke Yams) and then the four speed gearbox becomes a liability. I have a VFR400 as well and it's fun to play tunes with revving to 15000 - a bit pointless as max power is at 13000 but the sound effects are wonderful.

Good luck at the workbench.

Patrick

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Patrick

The idea of the bike was classic racing, but it never got to a point where it wasn't really fast enough and there wasn't anything else to do, I think Les says the fastest they got it was 107 accurately clocked! Yes they did some work on the valves and different cams. As you say a Jubilee reving at 11,000 rpm is going to require some frequent rebuilds!

Next question .... how much play is normal in the clutch?!

Dan

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Hi Dan,

I suspect that you already have a good idea of the answer on the clutch question. There will always be some movement even with everything in good order. If you're lucky the clutch centre nut only needs tightening up but there are all sorts of possibilities - i.e worn splines on the clutch/main shaft, worn rollers in the clutch centre bearing, worn sleeeve gear bearing, worn bushes in the sleeve gear and probably a few others as well - like worn clutch plates/springs etc.

Your suggestion of just getting the engine in the frame and actually running seems the best way of going about things- only replace absolute essentials in the first place. Old British engines were remarkably crude engineering in comparision to the Japanese items but they had one saving grace - they just kept going despite everything being worn and broken. And riders of sixties metal certainly got value from each item and didn't replace anything unless the machine had positively ceased to proceed. So as the clutch is still there there can't be much wrong with it.!!

My VFR 400 H*nd* is the complete opposite to the Jubilee - everything has to be perfection otherwise it simply refuses to even start -it does give 60 horse power and utter reliability even with regular use of 15000 revs so effectively F1 engineering.. The Jubilee will start and get you home even if running on one cylinder - so more agricultural engineering.

Patrick

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Progress is a little slow at the moment but I have cleaned up the two new barrels I bought and they have been taken to my local classic bike engineer, But does anyone know what the recommended piston clearance is for a rebore?

I have also used some of the special wire I bought at Telford for welding a hole in the clutch cover with pretty good results, It lowers the melting point of the aluminium so you can weld it with a blow torch. I'll post some pics later.

Dan

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At what engine number did early jubilees become late ones (spares wise?)

My E number is 17- 188076 - P. I need a gearbox sprocket!

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Hello Dan,

Gearbox change was at engine number 106838 in 1963.

Your engine number surprises me as my earliest Jubilee is 81449 - thats 1959. My Standard Navigator is 97526 which has an official dating letter showing it was despatched on 15th May 1961. So 16000 Norton machines made in just over two years.

Your number is over 100.000 higher so when was it made.

Patrick.

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Hi Patrick you're up early on a Sunday! I think its atypo, I took it from the V5 (it was raining and I didnt want to go to the garage!) - Just checked the motor its 17-108076-P so I have a late gearbox. Still waiting for my barrel to come back from being rebored, so not as much progress as I hoped yet, plus a seize on the Yam has taken some time, but I have a trick ported LOP barrel to fit (like I need the extra power!), .

Thanks again

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Hi Dan,

I'm just back from a classic vehicle rally with the 1958 Morris Isis - too wet this morning to take the Jubilee. You wouldn't want to do these hours for work but it turned out a nice day.

The P after your engine number will mean Plumstead - that's where the bike was built after Norton moved from Birmingham. In old Norton speak P before the number meant 1959 but they dropped that system in 1960. The later box is supposed to be an improvement but I have no first hand knowledge.

More power is always a good thing- even riders on R1s seem to be feeling underpowered now that BMW are the new power leaders - or so I am told.

Patrick

 


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