Featherbed petrol tanks

On the dimensions,  but a slimline tank has/should have two threaded brackets near the front where it is bolted to the frame,  and a hook on its rear (where the seat touches the tank) for the rubber band to hook over. 

see below for what it should look like. 

regards, George. 

Not sure since it's over 50 years since I had a wideline but my guess is that this tank is for a wideline as their tanks are secured by the strap over the centre top so don't need the captive nuts below.

The 8" rear width matches my slimline, so would it fit a widening? But the screw sockets on the side don't match the chrome strip on the slimline.

Paul, I have just measured the rear width of my 1953 wideline model 88 tank and it is 10.5" across. Photo attached.

Your tank looks like a semi finished slimline tank. It should look like the one in George's photo.

Paul, a bit late to this but I was searching the forum for other things.

I have just taken the dimension of my wideline tank at the rear and it is the same as Ian's as shown in his photo, i.e., slightly over 10.5". 

On another tank issue, my current wideline tank is not flat at the bottom and consequently sits poorly on the top tubes. I am interested in getting this twist removed from the tank or purchasing an alloy or steel tank. Can anyone advise on suitable tank refurbishers and/or alloy or steel (Indian) tank manufacturers?

Many thanks

Hi Jonathan. I’m not sure where you live but I can recommend Terry Potter who runs Precision Motorcycle Paintwork near Cranfield in Bedfordshire. His number is 01234 391002.

The only downside is that he’s always very, very busy - if you want it done in under 4 months, you’d be better looking elsewhere. I had Terry repair a Bonneville tank that was dented and had a front corner that looked like a sieve. The job wasn’t cheap but looks superb. He cut out the underside of the tank to get access then welded it back on and made a new front corner - all steel, no filler - you’d never know it had been repaired and the paint job is stunning.

Regards

Tony

I'm pretty sure neither the frame nor the tank would be perfectly flat at resting points. My PO observed that nothing really lined up properly when he rebuilt mine. Doesn't the tank rest on rubber packs? Can you not adjust them before going to the trouble and expense of a new tank...and the risk that it won't fit any better?

Thanks Tony, that's very useful, I'll give him a call.

I'm in Cheltenham and don't mind a bit of travelling to get a good result.

Regards

Jonathan

Hi David, on the face of it this does look like a simple problem but unfortunately is not. 

The front and rear of the tank have to line up axially and with little clearance, for the cables at the front and frame tubes at the front and rear. With this done the tank base needs to be packed up at 4 corners as required. However, the distortion does not allow the tank to sit squarely over the frame tubes at front and rear and centrally around the headstock. When tightening the retaining strap it is not parallel with the tank surface and with vibration gradually pulls the tank out of position causing contact with the frame at various points.

The frame tubes are pretty level. I had another earlier chromed tank on it which fitted well but started to leak at the bottom seal due to corroded panels.

The W/ L tank is held on with a strap coming over the tank from the head stock and attaching to a fixing point at the front of the tool tray, the tank rests on 4 rubber pads wrapped round the top tubes, obtainable from RGM. Campbell

Think there are 2 different shapes of upper tank for the widelines- it is lower at the back for the early ones (I think it changed about 1956). the lower sides look deeper than my 1954 one so possibly for 1956-1960ish??