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Excessive Gearbox Layshaft Endfloat?

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I have carried out a trial fit of the gearbox layshaft in a new Mk3 shell and with a new inner cover (everything was scrap on this Mk3).  I fitted a layshaft roller bearing from Norman White, new 4th gear and new kickstart shaft inner bush.  The new inner cover came preassembled with a kickstart shaft outer bush.

To get a rough idea of layshaft endfloat, I  fitted the inner cover with a new gasket and nipped up a couple of nuts, but at this stage have not fitted the flange dowels for ease of cover fit and removal.  A check of kickstart shaft movement found approx. 2,2mm endfloat.   That degree of float seems a lot to me and would require more of a spacer than shim to reduce the float to what I assume would be around 0,005 - 0,010”?  The next question would be where to put it - between the kickstart shaft and inner case or kickstart shaft and first gear?

Has anyone encountered this degree of endfloat - perhaps it is typical?  If so, what was used to take up the clearance?

Andy

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I had the same problem when I installed  the roller bearing on my 1960 box. I read about using modified iso shims  at the cover end of the box. The logic of this was lost on me. If taking out a bearing at the drive end and replacing it with something that left excess clearance ,then surely the shim needs to be between the  new roller bearing shoulder and the  4th gear. This would not move all the gears on that shaft to a new position.  I worked out what the clearance was and what shim was needed to give a minimal clearance and fitted it. Unfortunately I under estimated the clearance needed as things do close up and according to the box expert too much clearance is not a real  problem.  The bike was going to the IOM and I did not have time so I fitted what I had at the cover end and it has worked ok .When I fit a new KS bush I will get the shim sized for the roller end.  I will go for 10 thou  end float. These old bikes do keep the brain cells exercised, and I need that.

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10 thou, do the maths. If you shim then 20 thou would be the lowest to go. You are shimming out across more than one tolerance part to another, that is why 20 thou would be the lowest. 

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The Atlas appears to have no end float  and has a very good change ,but I can't remember what bearing it has. It may still have the ballrace  which tends to hold  things still. It also has the later KS spring detail which is much more positive and could mask any tightness I suppose. I would go for an uprated ball race if I get in there and not a roller.

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Hi Ashley,  I suspect we are talking at cross purposes , I am referring  to a  min 10 thou end float on the kickstart lever after all assembled and tightened  up.  Certainly using a dial gauge and mike and calculations was unreliable   and to get a final 10 thou would probably mean shooting for 20.  To me the idea of ISO shims is just because its easier than pulling the gears and shaft out. But not correct.

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I installed the new sleeve gear, then installed the layshaft assembly with its 4th and 3rd gears, and roller bearing inner race. The sleeve gear and layshaft 4th gear axially align with barely a perceptible step between the teeth.  If anything, the layshaft 4th gear is fractionally higher - i.e. towards the inner cover. 

Consequently, the 2,2mm endfloat found at the kickstart shaft end does not appear to be due to the roller bearing conversion and any spacer/shim would have be installed at the kickstart shaft.  What I need to figure out now is what to use as a spacer or shim of approx. 1,75mm and then place it between the shaft and inner cover.  I prefer the idea of maximum pawl engagement with the 1st gear.

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If you can find pen steel washers of the correct diameter, there can't be any harm in using more than one?

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The accepted way is to buy Commando  ISO shims  of a few thicknesses  and find one that works.  From memory you have to  file/grind out the bore a little and they are a little fiddly to fit  ,think you have to remove pawl . (senior memory moment!).   I had to swap them over as the clearance closed up  from what I thought it would be.  Front and rear iso shims  have different bore sizes check RGM site .

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No crossed purposes, I have the drawing for MK3 gearbox assembly and it clearly says 0.020'' minimum. What you are physically measuring is either the end float in the kickstart shaft in relation to the 1st gear or the layshaft to kickstart bush. Shimming out you do two things, reduce the clearance to the 1st gear and reduce the clearance to the shoulder on the layshaft that the bush in the kickstart shaft faces. Too fully understand you would need either use shim gauge like pastigauge, sectioned gearbox or do as Andrew needs to do below, if you don't then 0.020'' would be a safe place. 

Andrew, you have correctly measured the layshaft endfloat to kickstart shaft, but not kickstart shaft to 1st gear layshaft - fit it and repeat, if you shim from you existing measurements you could jam you kickstart shaft against the 1st gear, as the kickstart shaft is shimmed towards the 1st gear. 

Hope this helps

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Thanks for your comments, Ashley.  I did actually have the layshaft fully assembled with the 2nd and 1st gears when I measured the kickstart shaft endfloat, so the it did take into account the required 1st gear clearance. I just had the 3rd and 4th gears fitted for the sleeve gear alignment check.

Thanks too David and Robert for the isolastic shim suggestion. The rear shim would be the one and I was surprised at the thickness options, so achieving the 0.070” or so will be pretty straightforward.  One more small step forwards.......

 

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Just looking up what other people do, so I'll add my thoughts related to using a roller bearing on the layshaft drive end.

The endfloat measured at the kickstart (w/o spring) is the amount the layshaft can move axially, limited by the drive-side bearing on one end and the interface between 1st gear and the bush inside the kickstart shaft on the other. SKF specify a maximum axial displacement for the NJ203ECP roller bearing of 1mm, see https://www.skf.com/group/products/rolling-bearings/roller-bearings/cylindrical-roller-bearings/single-row-cylindrical-roller-bearings/productid-NJ%20203%20ECP

1mm = 0.040", so somewhere around 20 thou (0.5mm) seems a good target to shoot for. Maybe 10 thou (0.25mm) if replacing kickstart with ball bearing. Remember to allow for the thickness of a gasket if checking "dry" (or better still, don't use one). And fully tighten the inner cover nuts. While checking clearances is a good idea anyway, they definitely need to be checked everytime the gearbox is reassembled if shimmed to closer tolerances.

NJ203ECP is roller bearing equivalent of the original 6203 with axial location in one direction only, It has double the dynamic load rating of a 6203. Install so that it is free to withdraw the shaft from the shell complete with inner race.

 


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