Ethanol proofing for fibreglass tanks

A company called TCS based in Norfolk provide a cleaner and seal that they say will be proof against all likely %s of Ethanol.

I dont know how well it works, but very detailed instructions on how to use the product on the site.

My Fastback tank has developed holes, so I'm going down the steel tank route.

'Slosh' is very good and does not need to be mixed with anything. Just check to confirm it is OK with fiberglass.

Best thing you can do is not to use fuel contaminated with ethanol. You can use BP Ultimate in the UK, apart from in the SW, at least for now and Murco Super, supplied from their own refinery for the foreseeable future. Up to us to support these fuels and prove there is a market for E0.

POR15 is an american company that has products thatare specificaly for Mcycle fuel tanks. Ihave used the product in my glass Interstate tank, it has lasted over 20,000 miles and no sign of failure. The kit includes all the cleaning fluids and final coatings to seal the tank.

Just make sure that whatever product you use is Gteed for at least 15% Ethanol.

I have experience of using both Ethanolmate and Slosh in two fibreglass tanks. Both have a similar preparation and application process and the end result appears to be a coating on the inside of the tank in the form of a fuel proof layer of resin.

The Ethanolmate comes in various size tins depending on you tank size. I calculated that if I purchased the large (around £50) kit thenthat would be enough to sort outboth of my tanks. It didn't. By coincidence,I had a similar issue with Petseal many years ago.

The fundamental problem with these kinds of goo is getting them to flow around all of the inside surfaces. To achieve this you need very warm conditions when applying the stuff. So winteryweather are likely to hinder the chances of a successful application. In my case, I stuck the tanks and the tins of goo in my greenhouse for half a day to get everything over 30*C. Even then, after sloshing the Ethanolmate around for nearly 20 minutes, Ilater found gaps when I checkedthe inside of the tank byusing a dentist mirror. Which is why I ended up buyinga can ofSlosh to fill the spaces.

The other small problem that has to be considered is the petrol tap and fuel capmountings. These need to be plugged to prevent the proofer from clogging them up but at the same time where they are bonded to the fibreglass it is imperative that no fuel can leech down and weaken the joints.

Although I had a reasonable success with my tanks, if I could find a local professional willing to do the work for around the £100 cost of the tins of proofer, thenI would go down that route in future.

To think of the money this Ethanol is costing us!

1) Removing your gooey Petseal

2) Buying new Slosh or what ever.

3) Buying additives to stop the Ethanol attacking your fuel pipes and carb bits. Or buying all new Ethanol proof parts.

4) Then there are the huge subsidies paid to produce Ethanol that we all pay for so the government can meet its renewable targets. (Maybe?)

All that for something we didn't want in the first place. Like I say: demand E0 and support it where it is available, such as BP Ultimate (Not in the SW) or Murco Super from their own refinery such as that for sale in Beverley.

Guarantee? I think this is the problem with all advertised products for sealing tanks - there IS no guarantee! It's quite easy to claim all sorts of benefits that a product allegedly gives, but when the crunch comes I'd be surprised if you had any chance of a comeback against the supplier. In spite of all the UK and EU buyers rights you would probablybe hard-pushed to prove that you had applied the product exactly to the supplier's specifications. I suspect there will always be a "get-out" whereby they could claim something was not up to spec or it was unsuitable for some reason that you didn't know of. It would be interesting if someone brought a test case though.

Best thing is to use E0 petrol, currently only BP Ultimate (Apart from in the SW) and Murco Super,for the foreseeable future, where supplied from their own refinery. I'm still waiting to hear from Total.

If you put ethanol contaminated petrol in your Norton, expect trouble. I have a bag full of Petseal I took out of a slimline tank to prove it.

Demand Ethanol free and write to your MP. What happened to choice?

Fine if you can find ethanol free petrol in your local area, but it's not going to be much good if you want to use your Norton here or abroad. We just have to face it, ethanol is here to stay and non ethanol fuel will be increasingly difficult to find, just like 5* and 4*.

I think that steel replacement tanks and ethanol resistant fuel lines and floats are the future.

its a pity that no one in the UK makes the tanks.

I had this problem with my 1969 S type. The glass fibre tank eventually rotted to the extent that it had to be filed in the 'bin. The answer was a used 850 steel roadster tank from a seller on ebay, a bit of body filler and a coat of paint. Problem solved.

Sorry Charles but I can't agree with you. There is plenty of Ethanol free fuel in the USA and still some here. If you want to throw inthe towel and give in to the Green monster, simply so targets can be met, then fine.

Some of us have to fight on to protect our interests. Showing that there is a strong market for E0 will help lots. Money talks.

I'm not going to limit my riding life in accordance to the availability of ethanol free fuel, my steel fastback tank is on its way to me.

Well Charles, looks like you will be sealing your tank when you get it, changing your hoses and carb parts as well asalwaysbuyingexpensive additives to curb the running issues with this fuel.

I'm waiting for the thread of damage to engine due to hot running through Ethanol contamination. Not to mention lower MPG.

Previously neil_wyatt wrote:

Well Charles, looks like you will be sealing your tank when you get it, changing your hoses and carb parts as well asalwaysbuyingexpensive additives to curb the running issues with this fuel.

I'm waiting for the thread of damage to engine due to hot running through Ethanol contamination. Not to mention lower MPG.

My 1974 BMW works fine on ethanol fuels, the only problem was some paint damage under the fuel tank cap due to a batch of high ethanol fuel in the Czech republic, no problems with fuel lines or carbs and the standard Bmw red lead type paint liner to the tank is fine. 60 MPG on a good day.