ES2 tank mystery...

Previously wrote:

The Model 7's bolted their tanks to the frame differently to those on the singles. The singles had bolts going vrtically upwards into the bottom of the tank whereas the Model 7 had bolts going horizontally through lugs on the bottom of the tank, then through rubbers and through the frame, very different, so you won't have a Model 7 tank on your ES2.

I have a mixture of singles with a mixture of tanks, rigid frames, plunger (1950) and swing arm. No featherbeds. You are right about how the tank goes up under the steering head and it can also be especially difficult depending on what type of seat you have and how it's fitted at the front at the rear of the tank!!

You probably should have a flattish tank with a flip top fuel filler lid, not a fattish roundy tank with a screw in bayonet style lid. Can you understand this????

The tank bolts should be shouldered bolts with only a short length of thread which is a smaller diam than the shank of the bolt so the bolt screws into the tag under the tank and tightens up to the shoulder on the shank. If you use an ordinary bolt instead of this stepped or shouldered bolt you can screw the bolt into the bottom of the tank and with engine vibration, create a hole in the bottom of the tank.

On all my bikes not one tank fits the brackets in the ideal position where all bolts are nicely in the centre of the holes in the brakets. I need a rear bracket for my plunger frame and will taylor make it to fit the tank. It wouldn't suprise me what people would do or have done as modifications to these bikes. Your tank is probably right. look at photos on the net as a comparison.

Bob

Bob, you're right. It is the flatter, longer looking tank with flip-up cap. Your comments are actually quite reassuring, I find it difficult to believe it can be so 'almost but not quite' right. I think I have to accept the variable nature of the British Bike Ownership Experience. The issue of the tank bolts is welcome. Mine are WRONG, not stepped and probably long enough to touch the tank bottom as you warned.

Previously wrote:

Hi Adam. It is almost certain the tank is from another model, I don't think there would be subtle changes of brackets on the tankfor the same model and year

It could be that the tank is from a Model 7 twin, although around the year, the tank incorporated an oil pressure gauge on the left hand top side. The swingarm model 7 from 1953 has no oil gauge.

Les H

Hi Les, thanks for the remarks, I'm getting the books out to check that.

Previously wrote:

Hi Adam,

I've tried an experiment with this site, hope you can follow. Go up to the menu column on the top right of any page of this site. Click on 'membership'. This should expand out to several sub headings, the last being 'Members Bikes Gallery'. Click on this and a bunch of small pics will come up. Either type into the search window... 'ES2' or go straight to page three. The last two pics are pics of the clearance between the top of my tank and the lower side of the handlebar clamps. Note, my tank rubbers under the tank are just short of 1" in height. There are also a different type of top yoke with a much thicker clamp section, mine is quite cut away in comparison, you may have the other top yoke. I can put up a couple of pics showing the difference if you like. Others may know what models / years these different style top yokes fitted.

Bob

Hello Rob,

It's not the space between the tank top and handlebar clamps, it's between the tank 'cutaway' and the steering head, the headrace if you know what I mean. A more vertical shot would be really useful but from what I can see from the two pics, you've got LOADS of room! My tank is actually chipped where it was once touching that headrace dust cover. I envy your space.

Thanks for your help so far, another 'overhead' shot would be great.

Adam

Previously wrote:

For some reason, a previous owner of my 1950 ES2 Plunger restoration, cut out the back of the frontframepetrol tank mounting bracket so they are now 'slots' with the rear open. With me? "Why the f...lip did he do this", I thought. But now I find that when attempting to mount the tank it sits so tight up to the headstock-touching in fact- that you need to be able to slide the tank backwards to clear it from the headstock, that's why he cut the holes out for clearance. In other respects the tank seems right, although the rear frame mounting bracket is a home made job.

So my question is this: is there a similar Norton tank from a different model, subtly different in its mounting holes or maybe it's just the wrong tank completely. (It has two petrol taps.) I don't want to spend a LOT of money having it repainted if its just plain wrong.

Any comments or advice?

Thanks,

Adam

Here's the answer to this problem:

First, I got the frame welded to replace the sawn off sections of mounting loops and then...

I ordered the correct paraphernalia for mounting the tank i.e. stainless dished washers, lipped rubbers, plain rubbers, flat washers and the correct (stainless) plain shanked tank mounting bolts from Paul Norman at Racing Norton. The parts are perfect and fit perfectly and now the tank sits PERFECTLY on the frame. He does some ace stuff for SOHC Nortons, some of which can be used on ES2's and the like. Recommended. Geezer.

Adam