Electronic ignition

Why go to the trouble of converting to 12v? Get the Pazon unit and stay with 6v - much easier all round.

Not quite sure what you mean by 'replace the ignition unit' Kelvin but it is a fairly straightforward bolt-on replacement, with pretty comprehensive fitting instructions. Essentially, you just mount the Pazon black box somewhere on the frame, replace the points/condensers/auto-advance unit with the supplied gubbins, wire up, time it (you'll need a timing disc on the end of the crankshaft) and away you go.

Hi Kelvin,

It is fairly simple to upgrade the ignition to electronic (I presume this is what you mean), I have fitted the Boyer kit available from the NOC spares scheme to a Navigator and also an Electra. The instructions are clear enough. The Jubilee has a pair of 6V coils and this is what the Boyer works with.

Once you have set it up once you will never need to touch it again and the bike will run smoother. These lightweights require both cylinders to be very close together in timing. This is automatic with electronic ignition and nearly impossible with mechanical.

It would require upgrading the electrics to 12V but this is very worth while as you will get simpler wiring and switching and lights that actually work !

I have fitted the Boyer power box on mine and it did the job.

You will of course require a 12V battery andbulbs, you will find the horn works well as well !

I have attached a circuit diagram of my electra wiring which may help when you re-wire your Jubilee.

Regards

Tony

Previously wrote:

Why go to the trouble of converting to 12v? Get the Pazon unit and stay with 6v - much easier all round.

I'm with Howard on this. Unless you plan to do a lot of night motorway driving with it (You'd be mad to with a bike that can't cruise at 80mph!) save your money for other essentials. 6V Halogen lights are fine for local runs and even long distance, apart from motorways- they worked for us in the 1960s and 70s! Always wear a fluorescent jacket at night too. So, people might think you're a cop. Not necessarily a bad thing!

Cheers, Lionel

Some reasons to fit 12V. Maybe 6V was adequate in the 70s but this is the 21st century, you have to cope with very many other road users with very bright twin head lights and as WE get older our eyes have greater difficulty adapting to changing light at night. A 35W bulb at 6V will be as bright as a 35W bulb at 12V!! It is just that with old bikes and we assume older wiring/switches the losses in the system (resistance) is more noticeable at 6V. 6v halogens are available but the higher voltage (12V) Halogens give slightly more light. Halogen bulbs work better when fitted at the correct focus point, ie H4 but 6V halogens are always a compromise. Bear also in mind that the lightweight headlamp is smaller than its bigger motorcycle brother.

Al Osborn.

Previously wrote:

Hi howard, i hadnt seen them units, i have just checked them out, they look spot on. Have you fitted one of these, i may sound a bit thick, will this unit replace the ignition unit and charge the battery. I can see how it wil help, save replacing the battery and bulbs.

Cheers Kelvin.

Although this post is from some time ago, a point needs to be made. There appears to be an assumption here that 'this unit replaces the ignition unit AND charge the battery.' In the very majority of cases this is NOT so. Please keep ignition systems and charging systems separate. In the majority of cases we are dealing with road bikes, and coil ignition running from a battery, then the battery also has to supply some lights, then also the battery has to be recharged. 6V or 12V systems obviously work on their separate batteries and have their separate ignition systems weather points or electronic. But although Boyer do make a few units for competition/trials type work where the electronic ignition and alternator output are combined. We should consider these two functions as separate jobs.

Al Osborn.