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Electra clutch

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Greetings from the SF Bay. I've got the primary of my Electra in pieces to change a cracked inner case. I noticed that the arrangement of plates in the clutch looked a bit odd but not having taken lightweight clutch to bits before it could be right. The base of the basket isn't a flat plate and it looks as if it needs an externally tabbed plain plate as the first plate to act as the flat base plate. Is this right? The problem is that in the only drawing I've been able to find the first plate is shown as an internally tabbed friction plate but there is only about 10mm of the baskect that it could bear on. Does anyone have a decent picture of what the plate order should be or could some one just list out what it should be? If you could lighten my darkness I'd appreciate it.

Ray Pallett

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Hi Raymond!

Quoting from Clymer Publications M300 'Twin Cylinder Manual' - well worth getting hold of a copy if you can,

'Assemble the clutch in the following sequence:

Thick steel back plate (step facing inwards).

Friction plate (double sided).

Steel plate (plain).

Friction plate (double sided).

Steel plate (plain).

Friction plate (double sided).

Steel plate (plain).

Friction plate (single sided) plain side outwards.

Pressure plate with spring cups, spring adjusting nuts.

Note. The adjusting nuts should be flush with the spring cups when finally adjusted.'

I hope this info helps you sort your problem.

Best regards

Derek Ambler

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Hi Ray,

This from memory but I'm sure it might help.

The first plate into the clutch basket is similar to a plain plate but stepped in thickness on one side. The outer half inch is exactly as a plain plate, ears and thickness. The remaining inner part of the stepped plate is about 1/8th inch thick. As stated already, the stepped face goes towards the inside, plain facepresents tothe next friction plate.

For reasons not entirely clear to me, the ears on the stepped plate seem to wear more than the other plain plates. If you have a stepped plate with no ears on the outside, it is because they have worn away completely.

Very early lightweights had the clutch shown in your diagram, but Norton were slow to change the information when making changes.

Regards

Peter Holland

Previously raymond_pallett wrote:

Greetings from the SF Bay. I've got the primary of my Electra in pieces to change a cracked inner case. I noticed that the arrangement of plates in the clutch looked a bit odd but not having taken lightweight clutch to bits before it could be right. The base of the basket isn't a flat plate and it looks as if it needs an externally tabbed plain plate as the first plate to act as the flat base plate. Is this right? The problem is that in the only drawing I've been able to find the first plate is shown as an internally tabbed friction plate but there is only about 10mm of the baskect that it could bear on. Does anyone have a decent picture of what the plate order should be or could some one just list out what it should be? If you could lighten my darkness I'd appreciate it.

Ray Pallett

Permalink

Thanks chaps - spot on. I put it together last night. Exactly as Peter said the tabs on the thick plate were heavily worn whilst there was no sign of wear on the other plain plates. I don't think the springs are up to having the screws flush. I'm about 3mm in to stop slippage. The Electra seems to knock out a surprising amount of torque.

Ray

Previously peter_holland1 wrote:

Hi Ray,

This from memory but I'm sure it might help.

The first plate into the clutch basket is similar to a plain plate but stepped in thickness on one side. The outer half inch is exactly as a plain plate, ears and thickness. The remaining inner part of the stepped plate is about 1/8th inch thick. As stated already, the stepped face goes towards the inside, plain facepresents tothe next friction plate.

For reasons not entirely clear to me, the ears on the stepped plate seem to wear more than the other plain plates. If you have a stepped plate with no ears on the outside, it is because they have worn away completely.

Very early lightweights had the clutch shown in your diagram, but Norton were slow to change the information when making changes.

Regards

Peter Holland

Previously raymond_pallett wrote:

Greetings from the SF Bay. I've got the primary of my Electra in pieces to change a cracked inner case. I noticed that the arrangement of plates in the clutch looked a bit odd but not having taken lightweight clutch to bits before it could be right. The base of the basket isn't a flat plate and it looks as if it needs an externally tabbed plain plate as the first plate to act as the flat base plate. Is this right? The problem is that in the only drawing I've been able to find the first plate is shown as an internally tabbed friction plate but there is only about 10mm of the baskect that it could bear on. Does anyone have a decent picture of what the plate order should be or could some one just list out what it should be? If you could lighten my darkness I'd appreciate it.

Ray Pallett

Permalink

Here is another, slightly updated view of the clutch from a different angle. Still not quite right - but better.

Enjoy

---------------------------------

Previously derek_ambler wrote:

Hi Raymond!

Quoting from Clymer Publications M300 'Twin Cylinder Manual' - well worth getting hold of a copy if you can,

'Assemble the clutch in the following sequence:

Thick steel back plate (step facing inwards).

Friction plate (double sided).

Steel plate (plain).

Friction plate (double sided).

Steel plate (plain).

Friction plate (double sided).

Steel plate (plain).

Friction plate (single sided) plain side outwards.

Pressure plate with spring cups, spring adjusting nuts.

Note. The adjusting nuts should be flush with the spring cups when finally adjusted.'

I hope this info helps you sort your problem.

Best regards

Derek Ambler

Attachments clutch-from-rear-jpg

 


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