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E10 paint stripper

Hi. Following a disastrous engine blow-up caused by a botched job from a local engineering company I found myself with an oil tank full of iron filings and a glutinous oily aluminium sludge. I tried to wash it out with water-based parts cleaner - no joy. I tried hot water and washing powder - no joy. I tried 2 tins of carb cleaner - partial success, but I reckon I would have needed at least a dozen tins of the stuff to do the job. So I reached for my trusty fuel can, forgetting that it had E10 fuel in it. It certainly cleared out all of the muck in the tank but it also stripped the paint from the outside of the tank with absolutely no effort. The paint was professionally sprayed 2-pack, which I thought would be able to resist the charms of E10, but no such luck. That E10 stuff is better than Nitromors - it took the paint off right back to bare steel. The paint just wrinkled up and fell off. So now a complete respray is on the cards - maybe this is nature’s way of telling me this bike is jinxed :-)

Therefore, if anyone is tempted to flush out their oil tank with petrol, please bear my sad tale in mind.

Regards

Tony

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I've not tried vodka, but I suspect it won't be as good a paint stripper. Irving (Tuning for Speed etc.) discusses dope fuels. Apparently, acetone was often added to the petrol/alcohol mixtures (ethanol as well as methanol) to prevent separation. I wonder if that's the real issue? Not that it's much help.

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Shell V power and BP Ultimate have the same effect. I had the left hand fuel pipe come off the SU carb i have fitted to Mitzi. Neatly stripped half the paint from the starter motor and made a mess of the powder coating on the frame, now a dull dark grey colour. 

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All these problems with E-based fuels and yet the tree-huggers and politicians still keep trying to convince us that they’re the best thing since steam power.

Long live ‘real’ petrol.

Regards

Tony

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Yes Tony, like cash and banks; use it or lose it.

I bought a couple of liters of E10 to clean out the cam followers on an ES2 engine I'm building.

That is all this E10 cr*p is good for.

As a net importer of wheat (Used in UK to make ethanol) why are we not making bread with it instead?

Incidentally, I have powder coated most of my steel oil tanks, they appear more durable to the E threat.

In the prep, put a pipe cleaner up the return and overflow. Use a magnetic drain plug also..

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I use E10 in all of my bikes and did so on the Continent even before it was available here. I did a 240 mile trip on my 1937 model 18 this weekend exclusively on E10. 

Water in the fuel through condensation is more likely so leaving it in for long periods can be a problem. It may have greater paint stripping qualities but a splash or two wiped off won't hurt. Old plastic is a problem but new filters and pipes are normally ethanol proof.

We soon won't be able to get ethanol free petrol so it is better to adapt and get on with it. E5 is likely to be in the pumps for some time but 20% ethanol is being talked of and when that happens E10 will become the new E5!

I am not trying to set up an argument but just letting people know of my experience. 

 

 

In reply to by neil_wyatt

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Hi Neil. Yes, I do use a magnetic drain plug- this is what it looked liked:

Drain plug

That was after my engine problem. I had already cleaned it twice so the photo shows it in its ’best’ condition. Unfortunately the amount of steel debris overwhelmed even the powerful magnet in the drain plug so a lot of it ended up sticking to the inside of the oil tank. And of course, the magnet can’t help with the aluminium dust - that just mixes with the oil to produce a nice silver paste.

However, the oil tank is now spotless inside, so I guess that’s progress.

Cheers

Tony

 

 

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Tim,

Do you know something I don't with regard to losing E0 petrol?

If riders (And classic motorists) don't support E0 then it may well disappear through market forces.

The Esso stations I frequent the cashiers tell me that sales of E0 are much stronger.than E10.

It can therefore be only politicians that take away our fuel fit for purpose. And who elects them?

Like cash, use it or lose it!

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I agree Neil, there are a number of issues that the classic car and bike community need to be vigilant about. There are certainly a number of classic vehicles that should only be run on E0, I just don't think that my bikes are among them. Its not that I prefer to run on E10, its just that I am unwilling to give profiteering fuel companies an extra 10-15p per litre to do so.

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My current genuine Interstate tank was bought on eBay freshly painted and fitted 10 years or so ago to replace my dented original. I also bought a new genuine Ceandess locking fuel cap.

For some reason the vent doesn’t work when the cap is fully closed and I intended to fix it. In the meantime I use it with the cap on the safety latch which leaks a small amount of fuel onto the tank when fully topped up but stops as the level drops slightly. This trails and evaporates down the right and a little on the left over the paint and decals.

Tens of thousands of miles later I still haven’t fixed it, just wipe off the petrol stain every now and then. During recent severe fuel shortages, I used E10 exclusively through the winter complete with leaks over the tank. No idea what type of paint was used but it wasn,t affected by the E10 at all. Last tank wipe and clean was on Sunday before the Ace Cafe run and all good.

Back to using Super Unleaded of whatever brand is cheapest where I fill up in the UK or Europe. Petrol App is handy here but not concerned if it,s non ethanol or E5, makes no obvious difference to running or fuel consumption.

 

 

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Hi Neill. That’s interesting. Maybe your tank has been powder coated? If not, it would be really interesting to find out what paint was used as the 2k on my oil tank just wrinkled up and fell off. Maybe not all 2k paints have the same properties - who knows?

Maybe some other members will be able to identify an E10 resistant paint type/brand.

Regards

Tont

 


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