Skip to main content
English French German Italian Spanish

Drive side oil seal

Forums

My 650SS has not only got a bad wet sumping problem, when the crank case fills with oil it passes the drive side oil seal and ends up in the primary chain case. It started when I switched on the petrol, realised I didn't have something and went indoors to fetch it. When I came out there was petrol everywhere because the float valve had not worked. What I didn't realise was that because the SS is a down draft head, petrol had flowed into the engine - about a pint I estimate. I continued to ride it and only realised what had happened when I found the primary chain case was full of what seemed rather thin oil, which I realised smelled of petrol. Basically the petrol has had an unfortunate effect on the oil seal. The question I want some help with is - is it possible to replace the oil seal without splitting the crankcases? It seems to be pushed in from the outside.

Permalink

It is pushed in from the outside. Just be careful removing the old one that you don't mark the crank where the seal contacts it. it needs to be clean & smooth or the seal will leak.

Ian

Permalink

There are 2 types available, one with a plain steel outer and one that has a rubber coated steel outer, go for the rubber one if possible, if not then use a sealant on the OD of the steel one to stop leaks.

Permalink

...and I replaced the old nylon float 'needles' with a new Viton tipped brass ones. Then it doesn'tleak through even if Iforget to shut the fuel tap.

Now you have the entertaining challenge of removing the drive sprocket. If you haven't done so, check previous posts here for some hints (and dangers...)

Permalink

I have found RGM sell one but I have no way of telling whether it is rubber coated or not. Do you know a source of one which you know is?

Permalink

I've just realised: I have non-standard concentric carbs on my Dommie. So I can't remember the monoblock arrangement - sorry.

I bought mine some years ago. I suspect that they only sell the Viton tipped one but I don't know. I think I just walked in to Russell Motors and asked for a pair of them and the only ones they had surprised me because they were brass with rubber tips rather than solid nylon.

Someone else might know? But someone like Surrey Cycles or Amal direct (I think they do direct sales) might help. Much as I respect RGM, this is not a special Norton product.

Regards

David

Permalink

Previously john_holmes wrote:

You can screw a couple of self tapping screws into the old seal to help give a grip to pull it out.

Thanks for that tip it worked a treat. Don't know how I would have managed without it. I used a couple of the screws used on computers. short and stubby.

Permalink

Previously David Cooper wrote:

I've just realised: I have non-standard concentric carbs on my Dommie. So I can't remember the monoblock arrangement - sorry.

I bought mine some years ago. I suspect that they only sell the Viton tipped one but I don't know. I think I just walked in to Russell Motors and asked for a pair of them and the only ones they had surprised me because they were brass with rubber tips rather than solid nylon.

Someone else might know? But someone like Surrey Cycles or Amal direct (I think they do direct sales) might help. Much as I respect RGM, this is not a special Norton product.

Regards

David

I have a feeing it is a viton tipped. I know I put one on one of my bikes. This has the original carbs basically two monoblocks. One has the float chamber blanked off and cut off and they are linked at the bottom so the one float chamber serves both carbs. A thought has just struck me that if I have fitted a viton tipped needle that might be the problem. With one float chamber/needle feeding 2 carbs the hole blocked off by the float needle may be wider than standard in order to increase the flow. Next time I have it apart I will check.

 


Norton Owners Club Website by 2Toucans