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Dommi 88 +20 Shells

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So I have my re-ground crank back and want good quality +20 shells now. What and who can supply these ? Is there a good brand and is there a `do not bother with out there ? Do AE supply shells for Nortons ?

cheers.

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It might be worth speaking to the people who did the regrind for you. They usually know what to buy or avoid. 

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Wayne, you can get good quality shells for the 88 model from any of the spares stockists who regularly advertise in Roadholder. At 1.5 inch, the journals of model 7,  88, 99 and all Lightweights are the same. 

Hope this helps. 

Peter

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I got my big end shells from the NOC.

They were shop soiled but after a small scrub-up fitted and worked fine.

Price was half that of most other suppliers.

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Vandervell VP69 for 650/750 if you can find New Old Stock.  500/600 would be VP57.  Glacier Shells is an AE offering and they are also very good.  Good luck, Howard   

In reply to by philip_hannam1

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Sadly the NOC shop (which I prefer to use) never seem to give any `details ` about the items for sale. I would like to know what make /specification ( Bi or Tri metal for example) or in the case of other spares the materials they are made of. I expected my recently bought Con Rod bolts to have steel nuts but they were Stainless which I`m led to believe shouldn`t be used in such places. Also when `Shells` are `shop soiled ` i`m never sure if they are scratched , chipped or unfit for use ?

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Found some Glacier -020" NOS shells on Ebay Marked B2025M and Norton on the Box. Also VP57 hand written so getting nearer to assembling things. Is Wellseal required for the assembly of the cranksaft halves ? And having weighed the new pistons and con rods I found the combined weight of the left to be 606g and the combined weight of the the right 610g ( pistons and rods complete ). Is this going to be a problem ?

Thanks

Wayne.

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Hello again Wayne - Don't apply Wellseal to the crankshaft parts. Just make sure that the mating surfaces are spotless and the correct HT bolts are torqued up correctly.  Use Wellseal sparingly on very clean crankcase mating surfaces.  Give the drive-side end of the crankshaft a good thump once or twice against a piece of alloy placed flat on a flagstone or concrete (to protect the threads) and make sure that the crank and camshaft rotate freely. Drop it carefully from about a foot and keep your hands on it.  Then you're good to go with the timing stuff etc. Cheers, Howard  

Thanks Howard. Not quite ready to assy crank (waiting for new studs/bolts/nuts ) and having Rods crack tested before checking Ovality. I`ve polished exhaust ports and have the head in being fitted with new Guides/Valves too so doing my best to build a good reliable motor. Thanks,Wayne.

 


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