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Dominator Rear Brake Drum wheel studs

Submitted by leonard_urwin on Sunday, 31 March, 2019 - 13:28
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Heavy Twins

Hi,

One of the three studs on the rear brake drum, which allow the wheel to be removed without disturbing the rear chain drive, is broken (so the wheel is only attached by two bolts) - see photos. This appears to be riveted to the brake drum - see photos.

Has anyone got any experience of changing these studs and do you know a source for bits as the usual suspects only appear to sell a whole new brake drum assy?

Cheers.

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Submitted by mikael_ridderstad on Sunday, 31 March, 2019 - 17:20

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Not sure looking at the pictures how worn the sprocket teeth are. If they are worn, I think you should go for a new one. On modern bikes it is usual to change sprockets when fitting a new chain. Did it yesterday on my Ninja. But on that the whole kit was only slightly more than a Norton drum.

Submitted by alan_osborn on Sunday, 31 March, 2019 - 21:36

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A point to bear in mind-if you do this ie change a stud, if by chance the stud you buy is Commando then the thread will be Metric! so you have one odd stud and nut! or you go mad and change all three! In the 70s at one time I could only get a Commando drum-different nuts-got new set of nuts. Later on changing back to Dommie/Atlas drum-got out old set of nuts again!

Submitted by paul_standeven on Monday, 1 April, 2019 - 05:20

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I thought that the Commandos all got a cush drive arrangement between drum and wheel hub.  So I am wrong, it came out later?

Paul

Submitted by michael_rettie on Sunday, 31 March, 2019 - 23:31

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.....UNF I believe. As far as I know, the only metric threads to be found on a Commando are in Lucas components.  Alan is right in principle to make sure threads on these studs are the same.

Submitted by richard_payne on Sunday, 31 March, 2019 - 23:40

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The 1972-on oil filter had a metric thread...Don't forget the sparking plugs either !

If the drum studs are the same as the earlier singles, then they were certainly obtainable at one time for the WD models. Russell Motors may be worth a try.

Submitted by john_sunderland on Monday, 1 April, 2019 - 11:53

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It shouldn't be a major task to replace the failed stud. From the photo it looks like it snapped therefore it may be a good idea to change all three just in case. I'm guessing they are riveted in place so as long as you have a suitable 'dolly' to form the head and a nice big hammer you should be ok so long as you get everything squared up.

Submitted by leonard_urwin on Monday, 1 April, 2019 - 12:25

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Thanks for the Commando trivia - will be helpful when I do a Commando (possibly next year).

Getting back to the 650SS Domi - apparently some were screwed and peened, some were 'fixed' - I guess by riveting.

RGM offer a repair part - see link:

https://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/rear-brake-drum-stud_3904.htm#

I ground the peening off mine (it looks like it's threaded) and  applied copious amounts of Plus-gas, but holding the shoulder in a vice and a long  lever on the other two bolts still won't budge it. I guess the application of heat is the next  course of action.

Watch this space.........!

Worst case fallback plan is to drill it out, re-tap it and fit one of the RGM babies should brute force fail to deliver!

Submitted by ian_soady on Tuesday, 2 April, 2019 - 12:16

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... that the studs are serrated rather than threaded and are pressed into place but I could easily be wrong. As you suggest, those RGM studs should fit after drilling out the old ones (and possibly helicoiling).

Submitted by leonard_urwin on Thursday, 4 April, 2019 - 22:30

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Hi,

'I am invincible' - name that movie (clue - a Bond movie!)

So heating the drum didn't work and I had to resort to drilling out the old stud. Drilling just off centre to the minor dia of the thread and cutting with a junior hacksaw allowed me to slightly collapse the stud and unscrew it (see photo). Fortunately the thread was relatively undamaged (see photo) and I could clean out the rust and screw in the new stud (see photo), ordered from RGM yesterday and arrived today - quite impressed!.

So all that remains is to thank you all for your advice.  I've no doubt that on some models they are pressed in, as Ian suggested, so be careful if you have to do this yourselves.

Cheers,

Len

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Submitted by robert_tuck on Friday, 5 April, 2019 - 07:18

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Should be one locator stud and two ordinary ones.--- you appear to have two locator?,will they fight each other?--!!.

Submitted by leonard_urwin on Friday, 5 April, 2019 - 09:34

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In my excitement over getting the little b*gger out, and the new stud actually fitting, that I missed that - maybe not so invincible after all ?!(Goldeneye, by the way - Boris the computer nerd!)

I'll investigate when I get the rest of the wheel back from Anglia Wheels and come up with a cunning plan - possibly some turning involved - this is the only replacement stud I could find. I like to think it would've dawned on me when I trial fitted it all together (he said, trying to save face!)

Thanks for pointing this out.

Len

Submitted by robert_tuck on Friday, 5 April, 2019 - 12:19

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 Probably won't make any difference, I spent ages looking for the matching deep recess in the hub,and of course there isn't one. I never really understood the intent behind this feature ,so my " all knowing halo" is a hoax!!.  I suppose the locator stud resists the drive/braking loads leaving the 3 bolts to just keep it all together. I check mine regularly as they can come loose.

 



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