Cracked fork slider

Many years ago, i had the same problem with one of my fork sliders. I sent it to Norvil and they repaired it, and i am still using it today. 

A common problem on pre commando sliders, Usually caused by over tightening + stress over the years.I have 3 such repaired sliders I check each year or when the wheel comes out.

A good repair is perfectly fine, ideally crack tested. Only one I sent for repair, the others were bought repaired.

Do not over tighten, it's a pinch fit....The Commando was beefed up in this area as a precaution to the heavy handed.

Hi Aston,

   Even with a fork leg in good condition, don't use the pinch bolt to hold the spindle when tightening-up or loosening the spindle nut. When you want to fit the wheel, tighten the spindle with 2 spanners/sockets or a spanner/socket and tommy-bar to full tightness, then just nip up the pinch bolt with a short spanner so it is holding the spindle in place rather than clamping it with too much pressure. At a guess I would think 25% of these fork legs been damaged this way.

Hi Richard,

You were quite correct with your additional advice.

I would just add, before nipping up, gently, the pinch bolt; to bounce the forks a few times first. This should center the wheel. (That's the theory)

I think its pretty obvious that an axle that is a loose fit in the pinch slider is a liability, I bought a stainless axle that was a tight fit ( they did vary a bit between different suppliers ) and eased it enough to allow the  fork to find its own position on the axle . Now a very light nip is all thats needed on the pinch stud.

... why a loose (well sliding anyway) fit is a bad thing. The wheel is positively located at the other end by the nut clamping everything up against the RH fork leg. My Domintaor I had many years ago had that lug snapped off when I bought it and I never even realised for a long time til I came to remove the wheel. And I never noticed any effect on handling.

A couple of years ago I came across a guy called Nigel Andrews. He runs a small workshop called Qualitig Services. On his website he says “Classic Motor Vehicle Welding & Parts Repair. A lot of the work we are asked to do is for the classic motorcycle and Car enthusiasts, amazing people who love their pride and joys and expect a first class service.“

He welded up a fork slider where a corroded mudguard stay stud had broken off a chunk of metal (not by me!). I was pleased with the work and the quick turnaround.

Here’s a link to the site.  https://www.qualitig.co.uk/services/  Lots of Norton heads eh! Where do they come from? Oh, he’s based in the W Midlands! (wink wink…say no more…)

Dresda were offering a service for cracked sliders - they took the bottom off and fitted caps as per BSA/Triumph.

Mick Hemmings used to put a fibre washer in the slot before nipping up.

The attached photo shows my Dresda Slider clamp conversion. I did not actually like the end result due to the spindle hole size and position.  Finding that the spindle and cap were both able to twist under heavy braking.

Originally I had taken the broken slider to an Aluminium welding specialist for repair. This chap offered a basic welding job for around £50 plus VAT.but would leave me trimming the rough finish in order to make the leg presentable. He offered to do the same grinding and polishing for nearly £150 plus the dreaded tax. In the end, after going for the equally expensive Dresda conversion and not liking the result, I purchased a new Dominator slider from Andover Norton. 

Hi Ian,   Cast alloy does not like to bend. The looser the fit the more bending force to crack the leg. Some  axles fit well and some don't ,as i found out when trying to find a good one from a selection of used ones.The worst were aftermarket stainless.

so I used to follow the Mick Hemmings advice. I also used to put a spring washer under the nut and only tighten till it flattened - like I do with carb nuts.