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Cast iron head paint

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Hi all. I want to spray my cast iron cylinder head. I would prefer it satin black or even gloss black.

Questions:

1) Will powder coating remain intact around the exhaust pipe ports?

2) In some ways, I'd rather spray it myself with heat proof paint, but satin/gloss black spray paint is not available for temperatures exceeding 300 C. Has anyone used this type of paint, eg PJ1, and found it able to cope with the head temperature? I can get VHT (650C) paint but it's onlyavailable in matt, or onlya very slight satin.

Many thanks for any replies.

Regards

Les

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I have used the VHT flame proof paint on exhaust headers with success. However there is a curing process that should be followed. There is a part no:

  • SP998 Cast Iron on the VHT web site - here: http://www.vhtpaint.com/flameproof.htmlat the bottom of the page for your info. 2000dec C. Only flat finish though.
  • I have also tried Rustoleum on the headers of a MG Le Mans 3. Seems to work fine- see here: http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=108. Only 650C though.

    Hope this helps.

    Permalink

    Previously wrote:

    I have used the VHT flame proof paint on exhaust headers with success. However there is a curing process that should be followed. There is a part no:

  • SP998 Cast Iron on the VHT web site - here: http://www.vhtpaint.com/flameproof.htmlhttp://www.vhtpaint.com/flameproof.htmlat the bottom of the page for your info. 2000dec C. Only flat finish though.
  • I have also tried Rustoleum on the headers of a MG Le Mans 3. Seems to work fine- see here: http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=108http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=108. Only 650C though.

    Hope this helps.

    I would not powdercoat. Once chipped it is a real bugger to remove. The other issue might be cooling with such a thick covering???

    Permalink

    hi i have used barbique paint as it is rated up to 660 c it is usualy in a mat finish and you can jet it at most diy places i have even used it on down pipes with some sucses the best way i have found to spray it is have the pice warm to hot befor spraying (i put them in the oven for 20 min first )

    Previously wrote:

    Hi all. I want to spray my cast iron cylinder head. I would prefer it satin black or even gloss black.

    Questions:

    1) Will powder coating remain intact around the exhaust pipe ports?

    2) In some ways, I'd rather spray it myself with heat proof paint, but satin/gloss black spray paint is not available for temperatures exceeding 300 C. Has anyone used this type of paint, eg PJ1, and found it able to cope with the head temperature? I can get VHT (650C) paint but it's onlyavailable in matt, or onlya very slight satin.

    Many thanks for any replies.

    Regards

    Les

    Permalink

    Thanks Dominic and Chris. Yes getting a shiny heat resistant finish is not possible with spray paints, unless 300 C is all that is required. 300C on the barrel is fine and you can get gloss black if one wanted it. It is just the head that is the problem. Most of the head will be below 300 C too but I'm just not sure that the area around the exhaust ports will not get above that temperature. If it does it will almost certainly cause the paint to blister slightly and flake off, and then go rusty quite quickly.

    I cannot get the Rustoleum in this country, but searching around, I have found and bought some satin black stove spray paint similar to the BBQ paint that Chris suggests. Although it is satin, the gloss factor is just 5%, which is not much but I hope it will look OK:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150587914754&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:GB:1123

    The other problem, is working on the head. Do you do all the valve work etc. and mask off to spray or clean the head, spray it, then do the work? Unlike an alloy head where you can just clean the grease off after working on it, you have to be doubly careful as not to scratch the paint off when fitting the valves etc. andjust fitting the head, either that or do all the work, degrease, mask off then spray it...not an easy choice really.

    My choice will be;spray it, do the curing in the oven and just work on it very carefully.

    I agree with Dominic too about the powder coating acting as a heat insulator apart from the possible blistering, but it would have been nice to know from someone who has tried it to know whether infact powder coat can take the the exhaust temperature...never mind.

    BTW, I seems to me that the original black finish might have been some sort of blackdye? If you look at early photos, the finish does not look like a layer of paint, butjust coloured cast iron. My barrel and headdid not have any indication that it ever had a layer of paint on it, even in the most inaccessable crevices. You would imagine that there would be just a few flakes surviving somewhere if paint had been used, but no sign of paint anywhere.

    Does anyone know what the original finish was?

    Les

    Permalink

    Previously wrote:

    Thanks Dominic and Chris. Yes getting a shiny heat resistant finish is not possible with spray paints, unless 300 C is all that is required. 300C on the barrel is fine and you can get gloss black if one wanted it. It is just the head that is the problem. Most of the head will be below 300 C too but I'm just not sure that the area around the exhaust ports will not get above that temperature. If it does it will almost certainly cause the paint to blister slightly and flake off, and then go rusty quite quickly.

    I cannot get the Rustoleum in this country, but searching around, I have found and bought some satin black stove spray paint similar to the BBQ paint that Chris suggests. Although it is satin, the gloss factor is just 5%, which is not much but I hope it will look OK:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150587914754&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:GB:1123

    The other problem, is working on the head. Do you do all the valve work etc. and mask off to spray or clean the head, spray it, then do the work? Unlike an alloy head where you can just clean the grease off after working on it, you have to be doubly careful as not to scratch the paint off when fitting the valves etc. andjust fitting the head, either that or do all the work, degrease, mask off then spray it...not an easy choice really.

    My choice will be;spray it, do the curing in the oven and just work on it very carefully.

    I agree with Dominic too about the powder coating acting as a heat insulator apart from the possible blistering, but it would have been nice to know from someone who has tried it to know whether infact powder coat can take the the exhaust temperature...never mind.

    BTW, I seems to me that the original black finish might have been some sort of blackdye? If you look at early photos, the finish does not look like a layer of paint, butjust coloured cast iron. My barrel and headdid not have any indication that it ever had a layer of paint on it, even in the most inaccessable crevices. You would imagine that there would be just a few flakes surviving somewhere if paint had been used, but no sign of paint anywhere.

    Does anyone know what the original finish was?

    Les

    Les,

    Not sure what the factory used but back in the sixties you could buy "Cylinder Black" to paint on.It was not a paint as such but had a smell similar to the blacking used on kitchener stoves,it was thin and easy to apply.

    Ron

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    "Not sure what the factory used but back in the sixties you could buy "Cylinder Black" to paint on.It was not a paint as such but had a smell similar to the blacking used on kitchener stoves,it was thin and easy to apply."

    You took the words out of my mouth! I was going to suggest the kitchen stove polish for blackening hot plates.

    Dominic

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    Thanks Ron and Dominic. The "Cylinder Black" is still available, I think if it is the Granvilles product. Thinking back, I can just remember using it many many years ago, and as you say Ron it is quite thin and easy to apply. I might well buy some as it is cheap enough and do some comparisons on a piece of heated scrap metal to see what sort of temperature it can take. I have an IR digital thermometer so the temperatures could be accurately monitored and performance compared to the modern BBQ paints. The Tableau Black Grate Stove Cast Iron Polish seems not to be able to handle too much heat but thanks Dominic for mentioning it.

    What is essential, when painting or spraying barrels or heads is making sure that the paint really does get right to the back of the fins and no cast iron is left uncoated. Cast iron rusts so quickly and deeply with only the slightest wetting. It is easy to think the paint has reached right back, but it is often misleading so careful inspection of every fin is required with a very bright direct light or sunshine is needed. this is where powder coating should be superior as it is drawn in to every nook and cranny electrostatically.

    ATB

    Les

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    We often used Aquadag for iron heads and barrels in the 1960s. Not sure if it is still available. Very durable. Don't powder coat!

    Cheers

    Alan

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    Hello,

    I used spray engine enamel in a gloss finish on my model 19 cylinder barrel, it was found at an auto parts store, I can't say it will work well around the exhaust ports, though it has lasted several years on my cylinder barrel.

    Albert

     


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