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Carburettor problems…….I think.

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Dear all,

I have a Commando Fastback with a 1970 engine that is nearing completion and I can’t get it started for love nor money.  I’m running a 006 trispark electronic ignition, timed to 29° btdc. Spark is strong. Plugs are new, ht leads are new, fuel/air is set to 1.5turns out.

Still no dice.

Now I’m thinking the carbs, Amal 930’s are the issue. I rebuilt them with a kit from Amal, new floats and jets etc the only thing I can see that is any different is the stamp on the slides are marked 928? Could this be the problem? When the carbs are tickled the bike will fire up for maybe a second but then die again.   

There is no choke fitted either, which I’m thinking may be a wise investment for the future.  Any help would be appreciated.  thanks in advance

Ross   

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928 is cast into the slide, there will also be stamped number - should be 3 for your bike.

If it will fire up when you flood it with petrol then you need a richer mixture to keep it going. Will it continue to run if you keep pressing the ticklers? Are you using the choke (indeed do you have them fitted)? You might check for blocked passages in the carburettor. Maybe check the new jets against the old ones. And check against the sizes listed in the workshop manual - just 'cos they came from Amal doesn't mean they're right.

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Without a choke you are fighting a loosing battle. Any bike that starts from cold and runs without a choke is running way to rich.

Fit a choke assembly and try again.

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Ditto on Commando choke requirement. I've had three Commandos ('69 Fastback , '73 Mk1a and '76 Mk3) which all required choke for cold start with standard Amal carbs for particular model , jetted and set up as per Norton specs. No chance to start without choke from cold.

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I have to disagree with you gentlemen, I have/had Commandos with Mk1 concentrics and no choke slide fitted. All started without much difficulty. Might have to put a few revs on and help it along with the ticklers until it starts to warm up. But while it's not going to sit there putt-putt-ing away while you put your helmet on, it's not a problem.

More to the point, we don't know whether the OP has chokes in his carbs, perhaps he'll let us know...

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Hi Ross - the way to eliminate either fuel or sparks is to get a length of tube a few feet long. Suck up some fuel and spit it down the bores with the plugs out. Replace the plugs and give it a good kicking. If it fires up and runs for a few seconds you know your ignition is work OK and your carbs are not delivering fuel to the cylinders. If it does not fire up then you know that your ignition is not working correctly or maybe sparking in the wrong place.

Good luck - Paul.

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If the air slides are missing, their cable entry holes should be blocked. Otherwise there is an unwanted clear air passage right down through through the slide.

It should be obvious if the air slides are from the wrong carb body, because they'll have big gaps each side if they are.

Incidentally, when it does go, make sure you fit chromed or hard anodised slides. They'll last far longer and also reduce wear in the carb bodies.

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Hi Ross. It won't be a problem to increase the pilot jet another half a turn or more and set the throttle stop a little higher until you have the motor running at normal temperatures to then set them properly later.

I presume the carbs are not the premier type and therefore the pilot jets aren't removable, this prompts me to suggest you ensure that the fixed pilots are clear of crud. The fool proof method is to use a .016" / 0.4mm twist drill and carefully clear the jet.

 


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