Avon Roadrider tyre pressure

I run 30 front and 32 rear using roadriders on a Commando, way more than the Norton handbook figures. Tyre walls are now weaker hence the higher pressures, upside is the greater pressure reduces tyre creep.

An email to the Avon technical people will get you their recommendation, but from their website 25-28 PSI front 28-34psi rear

Having a memory of a gnat, I just stick 30 in all the bikes .

On my 650, with Avons front and rear, I run them with 28 psi in both. This seems to suit my bike and me. Especially on wet roads. I did try 30 psi in the front but found this fed every bump in the road through the handlebars and then my wrists.

I was wanting to fit Avon Roadrider's MkII to my pre-war Norton. The bike shop strongly suggested that it would not be a good idea. They said that the tyres would be very difficult to fit, as the bead profile (for tubeless seal) does not match the pre-war Norton rims, and that if I had to make a roadside puncture repair, I would not succeed.

Any comments from actual experience ?

I fit my own tyres, and yes tubeless tyres when fitted with tubes to spoked rims are very tight ,needing my big tyre levers ,Don't think I would try it on the road..  But who does these days?.

Unless you just happen to have access to some special tyre fiiting machinery it is back to basics and tyre levers. Modern tyres are notoriously difficult to get on a rim without damaging both the rim and fingers.

Give yourself a head start by warming up the tyre before wielding the levers. I keep my tyres in a  greenhouse until the thermometer is reading more than 30*C.  If I in a hurry, the tyre gets wrapped in black plastic while cooking for at least an hour. The warmth expands the tyre slightly and soften the compound. Solving the problem of getting the last few inches of the beading over the rim edge without scratching it.  You will be surprised at the difference warming the tyre makes.

14'' RaceFX levers and tyre gel, voila - no problem. 

So if you get a roadside puncture with Avon Roadrunner fitted with an inner tube on a spoked WM profile rim what do you do ? Is it having to transport the bike in a pick up van to the nearest tyre repair shop ?

Also; Are these tyres much easier to fit and remove on an MT profile spoked rim ? Or is it still a difficult job ?

Having recently fitted Bridgestone and Metzeler tyres to my bikes. I have found fitting onto the rim is the easy bit as long as you use a ton of tyre soap and decent levers. Where it gets difficult is getting the bead to go 'concentric' with the rim. I have found that increasing the cut out pressure on my compressor to around 6 bar - 90psi, (Not the safest or most clever thing to do I know) then inflating without a valve core fitted is the best way. Once 'out' they stay out. At the roadside,I think you could get a tyre onto the rim but getting it concentric would, I would say be impossible to do, but you would be able to move albeit with a 'wonky' tyre. Then again, how often do punctures occur nowadays? Personally, it was around 1986-87 the last time I got one and a can of 'Finilec' got me to a garage. (Cue: I'll now get one within the next two weeks...) The good news is that 'rim clamps' are no longer a requirement (if they ever really were).

Regards,

George.

I had a puncture last year in the IOM  ,happily on the last day , A can of foam did nothing ,so I sent the lad back for a van. The cause was rim rust flakes . Don't use washing up liquid fitting tires.!!. 

Just use a 250ml pot of tyre fitting gel from the MX shops, cleaner to use than tyre soap, it lasts ages and can be used for tyre removal, it also helps the bead to centralise and cures to assist the bead to stick to the rim. 

Once a tyre has been fitted and used, if it is later disturbed and refitted will usually centralise a lot easier than when it was new.

Avon understand the Roadrider is fitted to the heavy Commando and will give advice regarding pressure. They usually respond pretty quick as well. 

Fitting tyres correctly is easy if you follow the proper instructions.  I am still using a pair of 6-inch Dunlop tyre levers for my Commando, with Road Riders on both 19 inch wheels [WM2 90/90 front and WM3 100/90 rear].  The only potential issue with an International is that the tyres may appear too modern - if I were lucky enough to have such a machine I would probably opt for TT100s as they would have a more period charm.  Incidentally, does anyone on the forum know if the rear shock absorbers for a Featherbed model can be interchanged with those from a Commando?  Both shocks seem to be similar with the centres 32.5mm apart [sorry, I don't know the correct English measurement]. 

Commando shocks are 12.9" - 13" [my Mk3 manual says 13"] where as Atlas, 650SS etc are 12""

What about the Dunlop TT100 tyres ?

Are they easier to fit and remove ?

They just plop into place on chrome rims.  Keep the valve at the top.  Use an old-fashioned cyclist's toe-strap to hold the tyre bead into the well at the bottom of the tyre while you are levering on the bead at the top.  Push the valve into the tyre for the last part of seating.  It helps if you have the valve locking ring on just a couple of turns.  Good Luck!

I use talc when fitting tyres. Smells better than rubber! I too stick to 6" levers. The biggest problem with tubeless tyres on old rims is breaking the bead getting the wretched things off. A challenge at the roadside. Had a tyre deflate on the 99 a couple of years ago. Despite having a spare tube forgot to pack a pump (my mistake) so it was a recovery job. Turned out the tube (newish Michelin) had failed at the valve despite a security bolt and no tyre creep. Not impressed. On the upside it happened outside a cafe so a pleasant wait. 

I run 26F and 28R PSI on my '72 Roadster with Avon Roadriders.

I've changed a few tubes over the years while on tour and while not easy its better than a recovery in the middle of France or some place. Its best to practice in the workshop first and ensure you have all you need when you set off. These small compact compressors are good, connecting them to the battery via a cigarette lighter output, same as I use for the Sat Nav and to pump up the mattress if camping (need a separate pump for the mattress). I was always taught to use your knees to push the edge of the tyre into the centre of the rim, then get the opposite edge started and work around to the valve, pushing the valve in to stop pinching the tyre – works most of the time!

Regards - Paul.