Alternator removal/N15CS

HI.

You need two old clutch plates - one of each type - rivetted together and then bolted, with two 1/2 inch spacers, to a two foot length of steel bar ( I use a length of 1" x 1/4" steel 'strapping' from a builders' merchants). This slots into the clutch and locks up the primary drive. It's also useful for undoing the cliutch nut. The other way is a piece of thick alloy plate with a slot cut in it to clear the con-rods which fits under the pistons so locking the crank assembly.

I'd go for the 'clutch-tool' myself!

Regards & Christmas good wishes!

Ian.

A rattle gun will work ,or i have heard of locking the motor up with thin rope through the plug hole!!. I usually put the bike in top gear , with the front wheel up against a wall and tighten up the clutch springs a bit.I leave the transmission on untill all the nuts are loose inc the cam nut, i have a cutaway timing cover to avoid strain on the timing gears and spindle.I also break the head joint by running the motor with the fixings loose.

Hi.

Yes, the clutch tool would be myweapon of choice, Just make sure the handle is substantial enough. The plate that I have also works well enough but there's always the chance of nicking the rods ifthe crank suddenly decides to rotate under its own weight when the pressure is taken off the crank nut. Also, if you've got the clutch tool there's no need to take the engine apart should you need to get the alternator rotor/engine sprocketoff again.

Cheers.

Ian.

Put the back wheel and chain back on. Put in in top gear and put the back brake on hard (a glamorous assistant may be required). Then undo the nut. Use a long ring spanner or socket and you may have to wallop the end with a hammer to start it off. Tedious but simple, a bit like me really... Gordon.

Hi.

'Ere we go, this shows the complete clutch tool.

Ian.

This shows the spacers required to allow it to slot into the clutch body.

Another shot of the tool - one of each type of plate, one with the tangs on the outside, one with them on the inside rivetted with pop-rivets. The mounting bolts to the handle take the 'strain'. The extra holes are where a previous 'handle' fitted. It wasn't up to the job and itbent.

Finally, this is the tool in place, locking the inner and outer drum together so locking the whole primary drive up allowing you to undo the crankshaft nut (remember to undo the one on the other endin the timing case if your planning a complete strip-down) and the clutch body nut.

Hope this makes it clearer.

Cheers.

Ian.

Wow your one has even got a smart grip on it! Makes the one I cobbled up look a bit agricultural. Gordon.

Period item that grip! Came off the old man's Dommi!

No trubs!