Skip to main content
English French German Italian Spanish

650SS Clutch

Forums

Can anyone help, please?

I have recently completed a complete overhaul on my 650SS and notice that, when I pull in the clutch lever, there is a metallic 'tinkling' sound from the clutch which wasn't there before the overhaul. Inspection of the clutch showed that the clutch chainwheel moves forward enough to come off the rollers, although it returns again when the lever is released. When I look at the Haynes manual, it shows a 'clutch race plate'. which I can't actually see looking at the clutch assembly.

Is it normal for the chainwheel to clear the rollers, or should the clutch race plate keep it in position?

I have attached 3 photos which, hopefully, will show the rollers visible with the chainwheel on the clutch centre.

Thanks in advance!

Attachments Norton%20650SS%20Clutch02.jpg Norton%20650SS%20Clutch03.jpg www.nor
Permalink

It shouldn't move enough to come off the rollers - I would estimate no more than 1/16" or so at the inner end.

Your 3rd photo seems to show a big gap between the basket and the plain plate at the bottom. Looks a bit odd to me.....

Permalink

Previously ian_soady wrote:

It shouldn't move enough to come off the rollers - I would estimate no more than 1/16" or so at the inner end.

Your 3rd photo seems to show a big gap between the basket and the plain plate at the bottom. Looks a bit odd to me.....

Thanks for the reply, Ian.

I felt the same way about the movement, so probably worn excessively.

Regarding the gap, that's how it has been since I got the bike. To be fair, the clutch has been working alright, but after the rebuild I got that unusual noise.

Any thoughts on the clutch race plate? Maybe it fits in behind the clutch centre and doesn't show?

Kevin

Permalink

It all needs to come appart, If the race plate is missing or worn I have a spare new one you can buy off me cheap. If the drum is otherwise OK but the roller track is worn and rollers have too much clearance ,lets say a 3 or 4 thou feeler will go between roller and drum track then I would fit a set of plus 1thou rollers which you may find on E-Bay or I have some you can buy. This will take out a lot of drum wobble which can cause drag and bad neutral selection. Your clutch spider also looks like my old one that caused me no end of problems till replaced with an RGM one.

Permalink

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

It all needs to come appart, If the race plate is missing or worn I have a spare new one you can buy off me cheap. If the drum is otherwise OK but the roller track is worn and rollers have too much clearance ,lets say a 3 or 4 thou feeler will go between roller and drum track then I would fit a set of plus 1thou rollers which you may find on E-Bay or I have some you can buy. This will take out a lot of drum wobble which can cause drag and bad neutral selection. Your clutch spider also looks like my old one that caused me no end of problems till replaced with an RGM one.

Cheers, Robert. I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet on this one and look at a complete clutch. The centre and the drum are both 'grooved' and, after 50-odd years, I imagine the shock absorbers are also the worse for wear and I don't have the facilities to fit new ones. I 'de-ragged' all of the clutch plates, but that has reduced the 'tongues' in size. Thank you for the help and advice.

Kevin

Permalink

The centers get very grooved (mine was too) but seemed to make little difference when replaced, The drum (after 40 years ) was not grooved at all, and teeth were perfect. Some new centers are made of soft steel and groove really quickly. Truly flat plates make a big difference to both drag and slip.

Permalink

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

The centers get very grooved (mine was too) but seemed to make little difference when replaced, The drum (after 40 years ) was not grooved at all, and teeth were perfect. Some new centers are made of soft steel and groove really quickly. Truly flat plates make a big difference to both drag and slip.

Interesting. Could be worthwhile checking the plates for flatness.

Permalink

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

I have used either an exhaust nut spanner or a chain wrench to compress the rubbers in the centre.

! I've got an exhaust nut spanner. Great thinking out of the box, Robert!

Permalink

If you are going to release the race plate you have to undo the spring studs, Use a very close fit socket as they have a shallow head and can round off.

Permalink

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

If you are going to release the race plate you have to undo the spring studs, Use a very close fit socket as they have a shallow head and can round off.

I noticed that, thanks. Also they are locked with a centre punch - should be fun!

Permalink

Previously Kevin Bell wrote:

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

If you are going to release the race plate you have to undo the spring studs, Use a very close fit socket as they have a shallow head and can round off.

I noticed that, thanks. Also they are locked with a centre punch - should be fun!

I found that a hexagonal socket (ie where the hexagon actually fits onto the nut) fits better and has less chance of slipping than the 12 point fitting, if this helps.

Permalink

Previously terry_odlin wrote:

Previously Kevin Bell wrote:

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

If you are going to release the race plate you have to undo the spring studs, Use a very close fit socket as they have a shallow head and can round off.

I noticed that, thanks. Also they are locked with a centre punch - should be fun!

I found that a hexagonal socket (ie where the hexagon actually fits onto the nut) fits better and has less chance of slipping than the 12 point fitting, if this helps.

Thanks, Terry, I'll bear that in mind!

Permalink

Previously David Cooper wrote:

Did the clutch work before you took it apart?

Just asking...!

:)

Yes, clutch worked, although it always felt 'vague', if that makes any sense. Still does work, but when I pull the lever in, there is a metallic 'tinkle' from the clutch (this is with the primary chain cover off, so I am able to locate the area the sound is coming from), which wasn't there before.

Permalink

I think if there is wear/damage to the cage or sloppy fit the rollers can turn in the track , Also check the primary chain for damaged rollers . Tinkle sounds usually come before BANG!!.

Permalink

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

I think if there is wear/damage to the cage or sloppy fit the rollers can turn in the track , Also check the primary chain for damaged rollers . Tinkle sounds usually come before BANG!!.

:-O

Primary chain is new (80 miles), but not to say it can't be damaged, will check! I hope to have time this weekend to check the cage/rollers. Thanks for the advice.

Permalink

I just remembered, I think its possible to put the cage in backwards which would make it likely that rollers come free in the event that someone loosend the center. Nearly did that myself during my recent clutch saga!.

Permalink

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

I just remembered, I think its possible to put the cage in backwards which would make it likely that rollers come free in the event that someone loosend the center. Nearly did that myself during my recent clutch saga!.

Thank you, will watch out for that.

 


Norton Owners Club Website by 2Toucans