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650SS and 4S camshaft

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I rebuilt my 650SS engine some time ago. The internals were wrecked by the previous owner leaving blasting media inside the engine when he rebuilt it. I bought it as newly rebuilt from a 'reputable' classic bike dealer in the west country.....

As everything needed replacing I decided to upgrade the camshaft. None of the usual suppliers had a PW3; my preference; so I bought a 4S from Les Emery; Norvil. Published advice stated to set up to the timing marks; which I did. Up and running, the engine seemed quite torquey, with waaay more grunt than my mate's 99.

It has now done about 2000 miles, and i decided to explore the performance, albeit with the single carb it came with; one thing at a time. It pulls really well in top up to around 4500 rpm, then loses interest. It won't rev. I have checked everything painstakingly, ignition timing, changed the carb, nothing made any difference. It has to be valve timing. I set up a timing disc on the drive side crank, a dial gauge on a heavy base on the frame top rails, and checked and re-checked the valve timing. The inlet valves were opening at 40 degrees btdc.... they should open at 65 degrees btdc. Exhaust valves similarly out. I turned the cam sprocket 1 tooth to advance 40 degrees, and the inter gear 1 teeth to retard 15 degrees, spot on, opening at 65 degrees btdc. Likewise ex opening correctly. Trouble is, the valves are closing over 30 degrees too soon. Norvil say set the timing up so that at tdc the inlet valve is open .212". Mine is open .230" at tdc. 0.212" is achieved at 7 degrees btdc.

Having spoken to Les, he is baffled, and suggested returning the cam to him to get it clocked. The last thing I need right now is to have to remove the engine and totally strip it in order to do that.

The question is, before doing that, do I put it together as it is and try it up the road? Or, do I retard it a bit, so that the valve is open .212" at tdc?

What would you do?

Or, is there anything in the checking process which I may have done incorrectly, which is giving false readings?

Ian

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Hi Ian,

Unless you are simply after out and out power, I would set the cam up so that the overlap is equal either side of TDC and see how it goes. Most engines seem happiest set this way.

If you want more top end power, then retard the cam - ie make the inlet close later, but watch out for exhaust valve to piston clearance at TDC before you move it too far.

What else can you do? With your degree disc on the engine, have you measured the actual cam events to see what you actually have got? ie. is it really a 4S?

The tech notes for the commando say the lift start and finish is at 0.013" lift when measuring cam events.

George.

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Hi George.

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I cannot check to see if it is a 4S without splitting the cases, because I believe they are marked on the side of a lobe. It should be, it was sold as such, but whatever, it gives high lift, so is a sports cam. It may be possible, after removing head and barrels, to get a dentist's-type mirror in to see, but I don't know if that will work.

As for setting it equally either side of tdc, that is not possible, because the duration of opening of the inlet valve with this cam is 296 degrees; opening at actually 64 deg btdc and closing at 52 deg abdc. It should actually be closing at 89 deg abdc, giving a duration of 333 degrees, so is closing 37 deg early, to be exact. This compares with the SS cam, as fitted to the Commando, which opens at 50 deg btdc and closes at 74 deg abdc; a duration of 304 deg.

With the 3S and 4S cams, the measuring is done with clearances set at .016", and left there.

This gives me an idea..... The SS cam duration is only 8 degrees in total different from my measurements. Maybe it is an SS after all, and Norvil sent me a SS instead of the 4S..... On that basis, having checked my exhaust valve readings against the SS, they are only 9 deg different. The difference in valve clearances when checking the 4S & SS could explain that.

I have a plan! Treat it as an SS...... Re-set the clearances to .013", as per the SS cam, set it up to open at 50 deg btdc and measure up. To be honest, I now don't care if it is an SS cam, not what I bought, if I can get it running right. The SS is a good cam anyway. Then re-set the clearances to .006" & .008" and try it up the road.

Thanks George! Watch this space..... it may be a few days before I get to it.

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Just to clarify my previous post - when I refer to the SS cam, I mean the standard cam as fitted to all SS, 650, 750 pre engine #131257. John Hudson referred to it as the X1. This is not to be confused with the 2S, or double S, which is the Combat cam.

Update; I am waiting for a new set of pushrods, and rings, to arrive, along with gaskets, so no further progress yet.

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When I raced my rob north T150V with megacycle cams , I feel the most accurate method of valve timing is to time on max lift. This eliminates all backlash , valve clearances etc. A clock gauge on the push rods can measure the max lift. (Head off of course).

The beauty of the triumph design, is that inlet and exhaust are in dependent. (Its OK I run a 72 Commando).

If I remember correctly...The inlet was around 103 deg. / exh. 105 deg.

The centre lobe position can be fixed by halving the angle of the timing figures between IO and IC.

Colin

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Interesting stuff Colin. On the Norton, with the X1/2 cam, maximum lift on the inlet would be at 102 degrees atdc, the exhaust 70 abdc. I will check it tomorrow and see how that works out; good tip!

Also on the Norton, you can't measure the valve lift off the pushrod. You could calculate it by multiplying your figure by 1.13, which is the rocker ratio, but to measure directly, it is best to do so off the top of the valve spring collar with a dial gauge.

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Ian..

I do not see why one could not measure off the pushrod !!!

The rocker geometry should have no bearing on the max lift.

All that means is that the cam follower lift is multiplied by the rocker ratio at the valve stem .

Soon we'll be talking about cam profiles with quietening ramps and acceleration of the valve , both opening and closing which could cause spring surge and all sorts of evils. This does not apply when measuring max. lift.

A final note as regards camshafts as per Norton, BSA, etc. which inlet and ex. are on a common camshaft it is good to check the cam timing as the Norton cam can have discrepancies in the keyway tolerance and also the 'dot ' onthe cam sprocket (keyway). Not to mention the camgrinder ?? It's always best to check !!!

Colin

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Previously Colin Fairall wrote:

Ian..

I do not see why one could not measure off the pushrod !!!

Colin

Colin, you would have to drill holes through the top of the head to put a dial indicator on a pushrod. It would be easier to remove the barrels and put an indicator on the actual cam lobes.

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Colin. Yes, I did say that you could multiply the pushrod lift by the rocker ratio, didn't I? I was being a pedant, saying that you can't measure it by that method, but you can calculate it. Best to measure maximum lift direct, though, I would have thought, as apart from anything else, you don't need to take the head off!

I agree about manufacturing discrepancies in the cam. I believe the keyway on mine is in effect 10 degrees out to where it should be, or it could be the timing marks..... I will set it up by dialling it in, which I will do tomorrow. I will check as you suggest, at maximum lift. The lobes themselves seem to be true to each other, and consistent, by my measurements so far.

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Here.. hang on just a minute.

This procedure is usually done during an engine rebuild, whereby the head is normally not fitted at this stage. No holes have ever had to be drilled in the head.

Whether the head is on or off, max lift does not depend on the rockers or the ratio or any thing else....Think about it !!!

Colin

p.s. make sure that the pushrods are not binding on the barrel, when the clock gauge is set u

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Previously Colin Fairall wrote:

Here.. hang on just a minute.

This procedure is usually done during an engine rebuild, whereby the head is normally not fitted at this stage. No holes have ever had to be drilled in the head.

Just to recap: Ian's engine is running (in one piece) and he did not want to dismantle to do this measuring. That is why he talks about where to do the measuring. Otherwise this wouldn't be an issue. So the suggestion was to measure without dismantling. Let's not lose track.

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Interesting info there Fritz. The 'cam 110' and 'cam 120' are the ones I was differentiating between. The 'cam 110', the standard cam fitted to all SS & 750's, is the one I think I have, otherwise known as the X1 or 2, depending on depth of case hardening, apparently.

The 'cam 120' is the bad boy! 2S, or Combat, sometimes confusingly called SS.

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PW3 cams for Dommis and Commandos are available from Andover Norton, Part# 06-7367 for Commandos with timing cover points, 06-7368 for early Commandos and Dommis. Just a note in case you don't get them from other sources.

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Ian

Set your valve adjustment to zero and measure total valve lift of both valves.

Multiply times .885 to get cam lift. With that number it should be very easy to ID the cam if it is one of the ones I have profiles of on my web page mentioned above.

A stock SS 22729 (1S profile) should be plenty for a 650. Since you say you have 2000miles on it...it must be a street bike and not for track racing, correct?

There is no way I would use a 2S, 4S or PW3 in a 650 street bike of mine...

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Update:- Treating it as a standard SS; X2; #22729 etc cam, with clearances at .013", opening at 50 deg btdc, it closes at 70 deg abdc. Figures published by RGM in their tuning manual say it should close at 74 deg abdc; so close 'ish. Maximum lift is at 78 deg bbdc, exactly where it should be.

The exhaust opens at 72 deg bbdc, closing at 42 deg atdc. Published figures say 82 bbdc & 42 deg atdc.

Closing the clearances to zero, as you suggest, David, maximum lift on inlet is .43"; x 0.885 = .38" cam lift. Published figure is .375".

The exhaust lift is .375" x 0.885 = .333", against .346" published.

I am guessing it is the standard cam, with some machining 'tolerance'.

I am happy if it is, as the cam choice was made some time ago, and I have learned a bit since then!

The PW3 for the Dominator wasn't in stock with anyone when I bought the cam, Joe. As I said, it was some time ago.

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Ian,

Did you ask the Hemmings? I believe they always had the PW3 cam for Commando and Dommis before we/Andover Norton took over.

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David. I am not entirely convinced. According to the data I have, the X2 and Combat both have the same lift, but the Combat has 330 degree duration, while the X2 has 304 degrees. Mine has 300, so probably within tolerance.

I am removing the head and barrels tomorrow, so will see if there are any i.d. marks visible.

Ian

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I can only say, that every early 20M3 cam with X2(hardening indicator) is always the 22729 650SS (1S grind) . I happen to be a norton cam collector and own in excess of 30 cams from 1950 model 7 to 1975 MKIII commando and almost every one in between. While I don''t have every hot rod cam I have quite a few 4S 7S and the norvil 2S which is marked on the end of the cam and you won't see the mark unless you split the engine.

If you took your data correctly. 95% you have a 2S combat grind on the domi core. I don't doubt it may be a weld and regrind on a 2X core but the 2X has never been a profile indicator by any thing I ever heard.

Now that I think about it... if you have a 2X marking it may well not be a norvil supplied cam.

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Norvil only list the normal range of camshafts; 22729, 2S, 3S, 4S, 7S for the Dominator, so it has to be one of those, not a re-grind.

I have looked at the cam which was in there when the engine got trashed, and it is an X1, marked on the un-machined circumference on the timing side of the cam lobes, along with what I assume are casting marks.

I have also looked at the cam which came out of my original Commando 750 Proddie Racer. This should be a 3S cam, but I can see no markings at all, not even on the end.

My inclination is to fit the new piston rings, remove the valves, check the springs etc, put it together and try it up the road to see how it goes.

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Previously David Comeau wrote:

How to delete a posting?

As far as I know: Impossible

The only thing you can do: edit it, blank it out.

Fritz

 


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