6 Volt battery suggestion?

I use Yuasa std lead acid batteries and they last at least 10 years if kept charged using a trickle charger of about half an amp every month for a few hours.

Anyone have a battery suggestion that will fit my 6 volt '61 Model 50?

Here in California I have been running an Interstate Model B38-6A and they last only about 2 years until they will no longer hold a charge from weekend to weekend.

Is there such a thing as a gel cell or matt cell that will last any longer? Or is two years life about the max that I can expect.

Mike

Whether or not Mike wants to "upgrade" to 12V is irrelevant to the question about his short-lived batteries.

Finally had a look in't shed... Try a B38-6A available from: http://thebatteryshop.co.uk/b38-6a-yuasa-6v-13ah-869-p.asp

Last for years and years, as long as you charge it from time to time.

Previously anna jeannette Dixon wrote:

Previously michael_sullivan wrote:

Anyone have a battery suggestion that will fit my 6 volt '61 Model 50?

Mike

in my opinion you need to up grade to RM21 12 volt Alternator and solid state rectifier you find you will have much better light and Batteries are more available and bulbs too and there less trouble than 6 volt now just about out dated yours anna j

Does the '61 Model 50 have an alternator? Surely it's got a Magdyno with E3L dynamo piggy-back with the mag. If so, the Dynamoregulators electronic voltage regulator is your friend, unless you want an Alton or similar.

Paul

Model 50's and ES2's from 1959 had coil ignition and a6V alternator as standard.

I too would go down the 12 V route, can be done with the 6v stator using 2 of the 3 wires.

I would also fit a Boyer power box. That way the battery is optional. I'd fit a battery but if it fails the power box will take over. Marvelous invention having so many tricks all in one.

G'day Michael, the choice is yours, but I can tell you what I use with success and that is a sealed AGM solid gell battery (house alarm type)in conjunction with an electronic reg/rectifier. Half the cost of a cheap lead acid (around $24 delivered for a 12v, (6v will be cheaper))and will hold their charge far longer. The bonus is there is no acid to leak and can be used in any position. They have spade terminals onto which I solder short wirestoa fused 10amp plug.

Another tip, I remove the fuse when I finish a ride.

Paul

I have one of these 6V sealed battery's running 'total loss' on my bike at present. The blurb that came with it said use a low output trickle charger to re charge. How do they stand up to re charging with a normal 6V/12V battery charger? John

Funnily enough, I find that old fashioned lead-acid batteries last longer than sealed gel type ones. 3 to 5 years against about 18 months to 2. As for using a normal charger on a sealed battery - a good way to destroy one quickly. I did it once...

I agree with Gordon, fit a zener or similar control and a breather pipe to the battery and the old lead acid is hard to beat on a kickstart bike.

Thanks for all the tip, guys.

I think that I will stick with 6V.

Paul: I can confirm that this model is fitted with alternator, distributor, and coil ignition.

In the past I have upgraded the electrics by installing a newer model alternator (RM19?) and a solid state regulator. It runs fine and charges well when running. I guess that the real answer to the question would be to ride it more often. I do have a solid state trickle charger that I use when I have to charge it up but I have never installed the connection pigtails such that I can hook it up without removing the battery box cover. A job for the next rain day.......

Mike

"12 volts is ten time better" Hmm, a mite imprecise. No units of measurement specified. You can use a 50/40 watt BPF bulb with a 12 volt system as opposed to a 30/24 one with a 6 volt system. Better, but not by an order of magnitude.

Back in the real world, a 6 volt system is fine for a bike of modest performance as long as it is in good order and has decent earthing. A separate earth wire from the lights to the battery reduces voltage drop and really does make a perceptible difference. This of course applies to 12 volt systems.

Yes Gordon, a chassis earth is more likely to cause trouble, which is why it's always worth running a seperate earth to front and rear lamps at least. I happen to have very good "night sight" so running on a 6V system in the 1960s & 70s was/is never a problem. Less so today as streetlights are everywhere! In my day the small towns and villages swicthed off their street lights at midnight. It looks likle we're heading thgat way again to save emissions. The twin cell gel batteries I've seen don't have a very high capacity - the original 1950s/60 Lucas 6V is listed as 14 Ah in my old Lucas catalogues!

Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

"12 volts is ten time better" Hmm, a mite imprecise. No units of measurement specified. You can use a 50/40 watt BPF bulb with a 12 volt system as opposed to a 30/24 one with a 6 volt system. Better, but not by an order of magnitude.

Back in the real world, a 6 volt system is fine for a bike of modest performance as long as it is in good order and has decent earthing. A separate earth wire from the lights to the battery reduces voltage drop and really does make a perceptible difference. This of course applies to 12 volt systems.

A word of caution. The bayonet-fitting red LED rear light is excellent.I found that the LED headlight is great for daytime running, being of minimal current consumption. However, for night riding, it's great for illuminating road signs but it's not a well-focussed beam and not particularly good for actually seeing where you are going. I went back to a 30/24 Wattincandescent bulb.

Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

I found that the LED headlight is great for daytime running, being of minimal current consumption. However, for night riding, it's great for illuminating road signs but it's not a well-focussed beam and not particularly good for actually seeing where you are going.

Which LED headlamp do you refer to? I have seen good reports of the Trucklite 7" insert, and will consider buying one.

This one: http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/led-headlamp-bulbs-shop.phpIt has the advantage of directly replacing a BPF bulb, the disadvantage of not really being able to see where you are going.

This is the one I have fitted in my 12v twin, very bright and puts the original incandescant bulb to shame. I took it to a club night and members were impresed by the spread and distance of the beam. Takes a little getting used to because of the different colour light of the LED..

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/391099271216?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT.

Quite a different bulb. 3 emitters and an H4 fitting compared with 2 emitters and aBPF replacement. I agree aboutgetting used to the narrow spectrum colour. Very strange compared to the broad spectrum of the incandescent filament. One small advantage of incandescent bulbs in a wet climate, i.e. most of Britain, is the heat they emit - dries theheadlight and the instruments not to mention the tail light lens.

Doesn't ship to the uk though?

Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

Quite a different bulb. 3 emitters and an H4 fitting compared with 2 emitters and aBPF replacement. I agree aboutgetting used to the narrow spectrum colour. Very strange compared to the broad spectrum of the incandescent filament. One small advantage of incandescent bulbs in a wet climate, i.e. most of Britain, is the heat they emit - dries theheadlight and the instruments not to mention the tail light lens.

..............................

The only drawback, as said,withthis unit was it didn't come with a BPF base. Though, I managed to flatten down one of the supplied bases and cut it to suit the reflector BPF socket. IT uses 2 LED's fordippedbeam, then switches in the third for high. The ampmeter showing only a slight dischargecompared to the previousincandescent bulb....... AND, a lot cheaper. Room inside the lamp shell could be a problem for some, as the fan heat sink takes up a bit of room.