Does anybody have a recomendation for a better ignition switch than the one usually fitted to a 2A Commando? In over 40 years of ownership I have probably replaced this switch four or five times, and now I think it's on the blink again.
Yesterday the red light came on (Al Osbourne mod unit) but everything seemed OK. I pulled over to check but found nothing obvious amiss. Started first kick and the red light stayed off. Climbing a steep hill later on, the motor died. I had to roll backwards all the way down to the bottom. Once there I again gave things a look at but again found nothing. Swung the kickstart and off it went as though nothing had happened. I decided to cut for home and whilst cruising the last few miles on the M65 - the indicators packed up. Whether the lights gave out as well I don't know as it was broad daylight. This morning I went out to the bike, turned on the ignition and guess what - indicators working perfectly. So I have either three or four things going wrong - intermittently - or there is a common denominator - and I suspect the ignition switch although can't clearly see why?
All suggestions gratefully received.
Ignition switch provides…
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2A ignition switch.
tendered suggestion, -some years ago, in Roadholder mag. ,an article showed how to dismantle a switch, with pictures, and modernise th contact face with epoxy glue to leave a smooth sliding surface. Even if this is not the problem, seems worthwile. Maybe mid 2010's
barry. .
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2A ignition switch
Thankyou Stan - I understand the logic and will go check earths. As to the epoxy glue fix to the switch, Barry, I recall doing something along those lines some years ago and for a while it appeared to work. Ultimately I rewired the job according to further advice from within the Owners Club to reduce the current flow through the switch by using relays - such that only signal voltage runs through the switch. That has worked happily for several years now, this being the first hint of a return of the only electrical problem I have ever had on the bike. I will be delighted if it isn't the switch!
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2A ignition switch
Whilst looking for dicky earths and finding none, I became aware of a strange phenomenon. I have the AO charging light gizmo on the bike as a replacement for the original charging (attenuator?) light system. In this system the charge light only comes on when battery voltage drops below 14v as I recall. It has run perfectly for many years so best ignored...
I noticed today however when checking various functions with the ignition on - the red light isn't on. The battery currently reads 11.66v so it should be on - shouldn't it? On my latest ride out, the red light came on as I was riding. I stopped and started again and all was well - until the engine stopped a few miles further on. It restarted well enough but the red light came on again as I got near to home - and the indicators refused to work. As for the indicators, they are working perfectly now. So it remains a mystery, unless the charge light device is the smoking gun?
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11.66 VOLTS
11.66 Volts you should have said, certanly the Charge warning light should be telling you low battery. Your intermittant stopping and non working indicators are all saying low battery voltage-reasons can be many, iffy ignition switch as you suspect, an intermittant battery/connection or the battery itself, but this would show up when starting, which seems ok. The chargwarning light cannot be the cause of these issues, that can only give you missleading information, not cause the bike or indicators to stop.
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Should be capitalised, but V…
Should be capitalised, but V is acceptable abreviation for volt.
Still think it must be one of those connector blocks under the tank or in the headlight with a bunch of red wires plugged into them - or the bullets themselves.
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11.66V
Thank you for your inputs. I feel the engine stopping could be ruled out of the equation at this point . It stopped initially - and then restarted - but didn't run cleanly. In desperation I turned on the reserve tap as well - and the motor picked up - although not quite 100%. Yesterday I stripped out both petrol taps and carb and there was a lot of what appeared to be rust particles all over gauze filters and within the float bowl. So the motor could just be a cruel coincidence?
Following comments , this morning I will open up the headlamp shell for the first time in many years...
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Ignition switch provides power on two circuits - lights and everything else. If the engine runs but the indicators pack up it's not the ignition switch. If the charge light comes on but the engine runs it's not the ignition switch. So it's something else. Favourite would be a bad earth somewhere in the harness.