1964 650SS

I rebuilt an 88 40 years ago and when I saw the rebuilder had put super lens in I though why! It has a resleaved cylinder and standard Pistons so I will first check the rotor then pull it to bits. Could I leave a super blend on the drive side and just fit a timing side ball race?

Yes leave the suprblend in the drive side. This makes stripping the engine down much easier.

In the timing side go for an uprated ball bearing such as an M306 with 9 or 10 balls. Mick Hemmings used to sell this type but you can get them via Internet suppliers.

A clicking engine can be due to the use of roller bearings on each end of the crankshaft. The problem is caused by the worm on the oil pump forcing the shaft sideways on each power stroke. Accurate shimming cuts this noise down.

Camshaft followers make quite a din as well once they get a bit worn. Pistons will nearly always clatter when cold especially if the ignition timing is a bit off.

Alternators tend to whine or rumble just before burning out or exploding.

Other possible causes of rattles are loose rocker spindles, worn rockers, valves bouncing off the piston tops and loose pushrod ends.

Previously david_stromaine wrote:

Previously Phil Hannam wrote:

Yes leave the suprblend in the drive side. This makes stripping the engine down much easier.

In the timing side go for an uprated ball bearing such as an M306 with 9 or 10 balls. Mick Hemmings used to sell this type but you can get them via Internet suppliers.

A clicking engine can be due to the use of roller bearings on each end of the crankshaft. The problem is caused by the worm on the oil pump forcing the shaft sideways on each power stroke. Accurate shimming cuts this noise down.

Camshaft followers make quite a din as well once they get a bit worn. Pistons will nearly always clatter when cold especially if the ignition timing is a bit off.

Alternators tend to whine or rumble just before burning out or exploding.

Other possible causes of rattles are loose rocker spindles, worn rockers, valves bouncing off the piston tops and loose pushrod ends.

Just removed the timing cover and there seems to be almost an eighth of an inch of end play in the crankshaft so I think problem found many thanks for the input.

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

At least its not an expensive job,Fit the ball race . I would consider having the crank dynamically ballanced and the pistons matched for weight . Todays traffic speeds have changed the way we have to ride.I would also do a parafin test on the valve seats as I would not be confident of the abilities of the previous rebuilder.Time spent checking through the motor will be repaid in peace of mind .

The previous owner had the crank pistons and rodsbalanced rods shot peened ect at a bike shop,valves guides ect,barrel resleeved and std pistons fitted and spent tons of money such a shame ah well caveat emptor......

Previously david_stromaine wrote:

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

At least its not an expensive job,Fit the ball race . I would consider having the crank dynamically ballanced and the pistons matched for weight . Todays traffic speeds have changed the way we have to ride.I would also do a parafin test on the valve seats as I would not be confident of the abilities of the previous rebuilder.Time spent checking through the motor will be repaid in peace of mind .

The previous owner had the crank pistons and rodsbalanced rods shot peened ect at a bike shop,valves guides ect,barrel resleeved and std pistons fitted and spent tons of money such a shame ah well caveat emptor......

Partially dissmantled the engine all the nuts bolts ect not properly tight or threadlocked but bore/valves ect look good and am wondering if I should shim the crank and keep the superblends......

Previously david_stromaine wrote:

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

At least its not an expensive job,Fit the ball race . I would consider having the crank dynamically ballanced and the pistons matched for weight . Todays traffic speeds have changed the way we have to ride.I would also do a parafin test on the valve seats as I would not be confident of the abilities of the previous rebuilder.Time spent checking through the motor will be repaid in peace of mind .

The previous owner had the crank pistons and rodsbalanced rods shot peened ect at a bike shop,valves guides ect,barrel resleeved and std pistons fitted and spent tons of money such a shame ah well caveat emptor......

Partially dissmantled the engine all the nuts bolts ect not properly tight or threadlocked but bore/valves ect look good and am wondering if I should shim the crank and keep the superblends......

Previously james_brierley wrote:

Previously david_stromaine wrote:

Just removed the timing cover and there seems to be almost an eighth of an inch of end play in the crankshaft so I think problem found many thanks for the input.

Hi Dave.

I take it the quote of an eighth of an inch end float is just a figure of speech. If its anything like that, then there is something seriously wrong. Perhaps the 'superblends' fitted aren't the correct type but something else?

I'd fit a high capacity ball race on the timing side, just make sure its a standard internal clearance and not a C3 or 3 DOT; job done, with no need for shims, just as the factory intended.

Keep smiling Jim (Rivi)

Hi Jim ,I haven't measured it accurately but it seems and sounds like a lot, the owner bought the superblends from RGM so one would suspect they were the correct ones. The crank gives a good audible clunk when you push and pull it I will inspect the innards tomorrow,

Just had a reply from Norman White no lessso facebook has it's uses. The end float with superblends should be 9 to 12 thou but he said Doug Hele always used a roller and a ball race ,some serious name dropping there.

rgds David