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1961 Norton Dominator 99

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I have the above. I bought it as a runner with MOT and now decided to restore it. This has been like opening a can or worms.Fair play to the old chap who has kept it running since 67. Now I get into it I am glad I have with so many parts kept hanging on with copious amounts of wire, cable ties and jubilee clips. Upgraded to a 12v electronic ignition. Nothing seems standard and even the engine has been replaced at some stage.

What I could do with isa set of detailed photos from anyone who had stripped and restored one of these.

But a starter for 10

1) Should the primary cover have a bung hole or not in the bigger of the dished area.

2) Should/can theclutch/brake levers be ball ends as I have an on going fight getting past the current ones in the garage. Thanks in advance.

Attachments img_6301-jpg
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1) late 1960'sbikes had the hole with a rubber bung. I've no idea what those two shiny nuts are for - they aren't original. Is that a patch of filler slapped on to the cover? Maybe just a paint blemish - the paint wears off onto my boots eventually.

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Previously David Cooper wrote:

1) late 1960'sbikes had the hole with a rubber bung. I've no idea what those two shiny nuts are for - they aren't original. Is that a patch of filler slapped on to the cover? Maybe just a paint blemish - the paint wears off onto my boots eventually.

The previous user has added an inspection hole and covered it with a nasty piece of plate. There are examples of user mods all over. I have the option of welding a piece in or getting another cover. I would like to chrome the cover if I can find a really good one or failing that repair mine and paint it. Thanks for your help.

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Previously les_howard wrote:

1) Not original but dead handy.

2) I think the originals were non-ball ended levers for '61.

Les

Thanks Les

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Hello This machine look to be an original slimline model 99 standard in red and dove grey for some unknown reason has most model 99 were in blue and dove grey the primary chain case did not have any central hole for the clutch adjustment has this was carried out by the clutchcable at the gearbox end and standard models did not have ball end leaves the brake and clutch leave were all made by AMAL HAS was the HANDLEBARS I can tell you all these part numbers from my AMAL parts Catalogue from 1950 on to 1970 with over 180 pages and has all types of carburettor from type 76 to 932 and GP Types and TT 10 and TT15 types and type 27 and has all types of brake and clutch leaves and handle bars and throttle and choke and mag leavers and decompressor leavers and all parts the engine number and frame numbers from this motorcycle would be most useful yours Anna J

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If you search: North East Section of the Vintage motorcycle Club 1960 Norton Dominator 99 (Neil's Norton Notes) you may find that of interest.(Scroll down)

The mods inc modern Avon tyres, ball end levers for safety, electronic ignition (12v) and maximum stainless.

The hole over the clutch centre came later in the 60's but a worthwhile mod. Use a rubber grommet.

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Previously David Cooper wrote:

1) late 1960'sbikes had the hole with a rubber bung. I've no idea what those two shiny nuts are for - they aren't original. Is that a patch of filler slapped on to the cover? Maybe just a paint blemish - the paint wears off onto my boots eventually.

Hi David just checked Roy Bacons Book...he says hole was introduced in "late 1964 onwards"....which is what my memory also tells me....Les

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The 1966 heavy weight twins from engine number 114870 onwards had an improved rubber grommet for the primary chaincase. The detachable rubber grommet for access to the clutch pressure plate adjusting screw has been superseded by an improved type, and the new part number is 25341.

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Neil - how did you get the 'modern' Avons to fit between the fork brace/mudguard support with your narrow (pre-1964) forks? Your notes don't mention any problems.

I wonder if they are the slightly older 'Roadrunner'? I have a front fitting 'Roadrider' in the shed - done almost no miles - off the bike because it rubbed on the brace. My brace is not original (or, at least, it has been adjusted in the past) - so maybe a perfect one is OK? I'm not sure if the braces sold by RGM etc fit the early forks but I suspect they don't. I either have the brace rubbing the tyre, or the mudguard rubbing the fork shrouds (or both). I think the newer tyre is a whisker wider overall than the older.

Sorry Graham - don't want to hijack your thread - but I imagine you might need tyres. For what it's worth, I'm back on the usual ribbed front Avon.

Does a anyone want a nearly unused 90/90-19 Roadrider?

Regards

David Cooper (bike in question is 1963 88SS).

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Had the same problem with a new Roadrider. Had to donate it to my BSA and fit a ribbed Speedmaster instead.

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Previously graham_forbes wrote:

I have the above. I bought it as a runner with MOT and now decided to restore it. This has been like opening a can or worms.Fair play to the old chap who has kept it running since 67. Now I get into it I am glad I have with so many parts kept hanging on with copious amounts of wire, cable ties and jubilee clips. Upgraded to a 12v electronic ignition. Nothing seems standard and even the engine has been replaced at some stage.

What I could do with isa set of detailed photos from anyone who had stripped and restored one of these.

But a starter for 10

1) Should the primary cover have a bung hole or not in the bigger of the dished area.

2) Should/can theclutch/brake levers be ball ends as I have an on going fight getting past the current ones in the garage. Thanks in advance.

Hi Graham

I have a 1960 model 99 in it's originalform. I have a chromed spareprimary cover without the extra hole for clutch adjustment. I also have what I'm sure are the original brake and clutch levers without ball ends now that I fitted ball ended levers with adjusters.The reason for the hole in the rear half of the primary cover is to re-set the clutch operating rod free play (as mentioned elsewhere). After refurbishingthe clutch on my beast this extra hole isn't require once you re-fit the clutch assembly, all otheradjustment is done from the gearbox side, and in my case the clutch lever.

Best of luck

John

 


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