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1961 88 Dominator De Luxe valve clearance

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Hello,

I am in the final stage of the rebuild of this nice 1961 88c Dominator Deluxe and it's time to set the valve clearance.

Reading your forum I can tell that depending on the cam the gap that it's needing. Any suggestions and where to find the instructions to do it properly.

Thank you!

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Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

It appears to show QR on the cam - Quietening Ramp - so .003" in and .005" ex should do it.

Thank you very much.

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Hello these are flat cam followers and a Manxman high lift cam or Knowen has the SS cam later models , casting number T2219 X1 orX2 part number 22729 , fat type push rods now these are set at 6thou Inlet and 8thou Ex Not 3thou and 5 thou has before, on the early twins only the Radiused cam followers and QR Cam part number 21225 are set up at .003 in let and .005 ex hope this helps yours anna j Dixon

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Previously paul_greene wrote:

Showing the timming according to my notes.

camshaft timing Should be set at 11.o.cock to the Crankshaft at TDC Drive side . IE left hand side has this fires first, then the righ hand side after 360 degree had pasted, and four stroke engine fire once every 720 degrees that two turns of the crankshaft, yours anna j

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Previously anna jeannette Dixon wrote:

Previously paul_greene wrote:

Showing the timming according to my notes.

camshaft timing Should be set at 11.o.cock to the Crankshaft at TDC Drive side . IE left hand side has this fires first, then the righ hand side after 360 degree had pasted, and four stroke engine fire once every 720 degrees that two turns of the crankshaft, yours anna j

Thank you very much!

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Gather the Valve clearences:Inlet Valve: rotating the engine so that the exhaust valve is just commencing to open and adjust the reading to 0.006.Exhaust Valve: rotating the engine so that the intake valve is on the point of closing and adjust the reading to 0.008.

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Just in from checking 5 camshafts. All are T2219 castings. One has no extra marking, one has X1, one has X2, 2 have QR. One of the QR ones is from a 1960 99 Deluxe - valve clearances .003 inlet, .005 exhaust. So if you have a QR camshaft, you can use .006" and .008" (recommended for the SS), it won't do any harm but .003" and .005" is the factory setting. The setting is the same whether or not the cam followers are radiused or flat - that has no effect on clearances. Gordon.

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Thanks Gordon, I am currently looking at the original photos I took on the camshaft so as to figure out exactly what numbers it has.

For sure T2219.

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Hopefully the picture will show the camshaft marks to look for. You should see QR, X1 and X2 respectively. If your camshaft has no marks or QR, you want .003 and .005 valve clearances. If X1 or X2, I would suggest .006 and .008. Gordon.

Attachments cmashafts-jpg
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Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

Hopefully the picture will show the camshaft marks to look for. You should see QR, X1 and X2 respectively. If your camshaft has no marks or QR, you want .003 and .005 valve clearances. If X1 or X2, I would suggest .006 and .008. Gordon.

Thank you Gordon, The picture shows clearly the different cams. Cheers.

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Hello,

I am trying to find a "Degree Plate" file to print out so as to place on the engine and make sure it's all in place but I don't seem to find it available on the website.

Cheers,

Paul.

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Previously Paul Greene wrote:

Hello,

I am trying to find a "Degree Plate" file to print out so as to place on the engine and make sure it's all in place but I don't seem to find it available on the website.

Cheers,

Paul.

Here is one you can print out and glue onto mylar. Makes it reusable and long-lasting.

Attachments clymer-degree-wheel-jpg
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Paul, what is going on in your picture of the barrels placed on half a crankcase? Are you investigating something there? I have never seen anyone do that.

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Previously Jonathan Soons wrote:

Previously Paul Greene wrote:

Hello,

I am trying to find a "Degree Plate" file to print out so as to place on the engine and make sure it's all in place but I don't seem to find it available on the website.

Cheers,

Paul.

Here is one you can print out and glue onto mylar. Makes it reusable and long-lasting.

Thank you very much Jonathan! perfect, I have just printed it out, I was about to work on the timming without it. Just in time.

Cheers,

Paul

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Previously Jonathan Soons wrote:

Paul, what is going on in your picture of the barrels placed on half a crankcase? Are you investigating something there? I have never seen anyone do that.

Hello,

Yes, that is correct. I was making sure that everything was aligned properly before closing the bottom end of the engine.

Cheers,

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Previously Paul Greene wrote:

Previously Jonathan Soons wrote:

Paul, what is going on in your picture of the barrels placed on half a crankcase? Are you investigating something there? I have never seen anyone do that.

Hello,

Yes, that is correct. I was making sure that everything was aligned properly before closing the bottom end of the engine.

Cheers,

Mostly, to make sure that the spring at the end of the camshaft was working properly and not too worn off. This way, I could see how far in it had to go in, and if the lobs were centered/aligned.

It's my first Heavy Twin rebuild, and hopefully many more to come!

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Previously barry_carson wrote:

another version of degree disc. http://www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/downloads/index.htm download at bottom of the page

Thank you Barry! I went to your website and download all the PDF's since I am also working on a couple of Velocette, MAC and MSS.

It's a big help to have the Discs marked like you have done.

According to the Technical Data of the Rebuild Manual I have it shows that the Ignition Timing for the Heavyweight Twins in full advance is 32 degrees.

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I double checked the tappets clearance to I = 0.006 and E= 0.008, fueled, prepped the oil lines and she started right up!

Wonderful noise, running solid.

Thank you all for your help. I will do that last touches, adjust chains, top up levels and go for a spin.

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Previously Paul Greene wrote:

Previously barry_carson wrote:

another version of degree disc. http://www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/downloads/index.htm download at bottom of the page

Thank you Barry! I went to your website and download all the PDF's since I am also working on a couple of Velocette, MAC and MSS.

It's a big help to have the Discs marked like you have done.

According to the Technical Data of the Rebuild Manual I have it shows that the Ignition Timing for the Heavyweight Twins in full advance is 32 degrees.

Hello Paul its not my web site or my pdf i just supplied the link to the web site thought it might come in handy. Baz

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Hi Paul, Your restoration appears to be to a high standard. The unrestored exhaust headers are orriginals and now very rare. Any new ones will not be the same shape so I would restore the old ones if possible.The bike has a few non standard parts. The valve clearances should be 3 and 5,but the SS settings will not hurt it. Primary chain tension tends to tighten up the first time you give it a good belting , This makes the bike feel rough through the footrests.Best to set it a bit slack.Your exhaust roses are also rare orriginals of a type not availiable anymore. Orriginal brake light switches can be found but are also a bit special and not to be confused with the commonly availiable Triumph type.

 


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