Previously nicholas_reeves wrote:

For the last couple of 30 mile trips I've found that the gears were hard to engage especially 2nd for some reason. Well today after about 10 miles the clutch lever would pull almost back to the bars as if I had no clutch cable attached., Then when trying to pull up at a junction it was still, moving when clutch pulled right in . In other words not disingaging. I have also noticed a small amount of oil leaking from the large nut that the clutch lever on the gearbox cover goes through and the shaft that this lever attaches too seems to have a fair amount of up and down movement on it.As I mentioned this only starts to happen after about 10 miles but then gets worse and worse the further I go. Please could someone give me some advice as to what could be causing this and what I need to do to sort it out. Many thanks.

nicholas.

i had all problems your having.my gearbox is the early dollshead type.i tried changing the fibre and plane plates to stop slip and drag.i tried filling the primery case with correct oil level.then draining it out as the oil left on the chain and clutch rollers is enough for a sunday ride. but it was still a problem.even worse in traffic.i then fitted a bob newby belt drive as i have one on my dommie.that was seven years ago and i,ve had no issue,s to date.,i normaly do around 130 and often 200mls on a run.they are not cheap at about£450 a pop.but that all depends on how often you use it.the clutch is now the last thing i worry about when riding.....tony.

Hi Nicholas, you haven't said what happens after your 10 mile+ run. Are you able to restore normal clutch action? Does it recover by itself as things cool down? Do you have to readjust, either by taking up more free play on the cable, or by moving the operating arm? Have you opened the primary cases and inspected the clutch?

Two possible cause I can think of that have happened either to my own bike or others: 1/ the clutch centre nut can come loose. As the clutch moves outwards the free play increases and so becomes harder to disengage. 2/ Depending on the type of clutch plate friction material can debond and become detached from the plate. Again free play increases.

In my experience these clutches can be made to work quite sweetly. There is another recent post on this subject that may give you some pointers.

1934 Norton ES2 clutch drag

Cheers, Ian McD