Skip to main content
English French German Italian Spanish

16H Wet sumping - Velocette oil valve

Forums

My 16H is fine when I use it every other day, but if it sits for more than 4 or 5 days it has been wet sumping, which is a pain when I am on my way to work.

Was looking at options for oil valves and wondered if anyone has any recomendations or a part number, velocette ones have been mentioned, but from looking not sure what one to go for, can anyone recommend what is best? I would likely get away with a manual one but if there is a reliable auto option....

Also if it ever does it when out is it possible to kick it over a few times with the decompressor valve open to pull the oil back to the tank?

Permalink

Hi,I have used a very neat and good working valve I bought from Bri-Tie Motorcycles and after about 10 years use I have had no problems. I have used this type on single and twin Norton`s.

Svein.

Permalink

Mick Hemmings anti-drain valve is based on the Velocette design. I've use one on my Mk 3 Commando for the past few years without problem.

Permalink

I have thought of a relatively simple method of installing an anti drain valve on the PRESSURE side of the Norton Twin timing case. Should a few people show interest I will draw it up. The manufacture of it should be fairly simple. As you would appreciate, having a valve on the pressurised feed side is vastly safer than a valve fitted to the inlet side of the oil supply.

Les

Permalink

In answer to your initial question Stuart - yes, you can kick it over several times with the exhausted lifter lifted causing the drive shaft to spin the gear pump and hence return oil to the tank. Might take 20 0r 30 kicks, depending on the amount. George
Permalink

Les, have you considered the leak inside the pump, the oil moves from the feedside through the shafts to the scavange side and then out of the oil pick up into the sump. I have fitted two X ring seals to a pump for that fix, they seal the end faces of the 2 feed gears so oil cannot get to the shafts. Just stopping the flow out of the feedside into the crank is only half the solution. For the 2nd 1/2 I finally have some nitrile 1/4" balls on route, I have deepened the feed hole so it can have the spring and ball installed to shut off the flow once the engine has stopped.

Permalink

The prewar bikes had the oil pressure tell tale on the RHS of he crank case - so you should know immediately if any tap has been turned on. Of course I'm not in the habit of looking for it though!

For a while I did use a ball valve with a switch to disable ignition.It looks like a washing machine cut-off with a push switch operated by turning the lever. It needs to be'push to make' the power wire forcoil ignition and 'push to break the earth cut-out' for K2F magneto - but that's not so easy for a single with a mag. Can it be done, I wonder?

That's not there for various reasons so now I just start up and tick over very gently, smoking a lot, until the oil is returned.

Permalink

Thanks for the replies, will take a look at the suggestions. May try kicking it over next time it does it then and see how it goes.

My logic was for using a tap, pull the plug lead off and hang it from the tap.

It does have the pressure tell tale, which i normally do check

 


Norton Owners Club Website by 2Toucans