16H clutch types

There are quite a number of variations in Norton and later AMC clutches and some parts can be interchangeable. In addition, there are improved after-market parts available.

There is no reason not to use bonded friction plates of the correct type together with the original insert-type basket. AMC later went over to a bonded back plate with a plain drum and this is probably harder-wearing. The inserts do tend to loosen over time.

Some specialists will bond material to the early basket which provides a useful improvement.

If you go over to a complete new AMC type clutch, you may have to ease the back plate for clearance on the early chain case and of course you'll need to continue with the plain steel pressure plate.

My Manx clutch which is running dry uses the same bonded plates as roadgoing Nortons.

The 5 stud (pre -48) J.A.P. engined speedway bike I started racing on had an Norton clutch of the inserted type. Running dry.

The clutch basket bearings need some lubrication.  So take care if running dry.  The splined centre is extremely hard and not easy to file smooth. Even if you succeed, I don't see how you can be sure all plate tangs share the loads. Hard running with a dry chain will wreck it. All things to consider.

not the splined centre which is worn.  I do hear of people filing the tangs flat and getting a useful result.

The later clutch went with a plain chainwheel, and made all the outer plates plain, and all the inners friction.  If you want to go with the later set-up, you have to change the full set at the same time.  That will get expensive.  One critical factor if you wish to stay with the earlier arrangement is getting the Ferodo friction inserts for the chainwheel, which are thicker than the ones for the inserted plates.  I have no idea if these can still be found, but were 'difficult' when I last checked.

Personally I would try the repair first.  The basket tangs take a lot of the load due to the diameter (relative to the hub).  I use a file to clean up the divot's, then a whetstone to smooth up the action of the plate as it moves on release. For the inserts they are available (Stu Rogers) in cork or   composite material.

Bonding a composite material onto the basket sounds a plausible solution also as long as its thin enough to build up a full clutch under the retaining ring.

 If a basket roller bearing can run for 226 miles at full bore with two stops I'm sure it can handle  what your going to demand of it. A light coating of Teflon based lube on assembly may give you  comfort.

Cheers

Jon

is better to use a high temperature grease, than a thin teflon grease

Regarding the clutch bearing, this does nothing when the clutch is engaged - the centre and basket are 'fixed' together. The bearing only rotates when the clutch is disengaged.

With this in mind, riding a bike in a city/urban environment is much tougher on the bearing than when racing in the TT (the top TT runners would only do 40-50 gear changes and slip the clutch to assist pulling away a few times per lap) so lubrication of the bearing will be required, unless you enjoy changing the clutch regularly. 

For what its worth, the belt drive conversions normally use a sealed bearing in the clutch so that the belt can run dry. If it was OK to run them unlubed, then the belt drive kit makers wouldn't specify a more expensive bearing in there.

Just my thoughts,

George 

Ken McIntosh in NZ offers a conversion to the earlier drums...It may not be economic in view of the distance but his parts list gives an idea of what is available. I think it was Ken who said to me that the oil exclusion band is not necessary with bonded friction material. I don't use one.

Far easier on the clutch rollers to start a TT race than get onto the busy roundabout near home. Can I? Can't I?  Rev rev clutch in and ready. Peter 

I used to use grease but found it flung off quite quickly.  I then discovered Active8, a friction  reducer that works on metal to metal contact surfaces.  I am always surprised to feel it on the  rollers when I strip the clutch off.

 George: Take your point on the lack of rotation on the rollers unless your disengaged.

Cheers

Jon 

Jon,

I was interested in your comment about Activ8 on the clutch bearing.

I looked on their website and it comes as a friction modifier that you add to oil, a chain lube and a chain cleaner with lubricating qualities. 

Which one do you use and how do you apply it?

Don Anson

Melbourne