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Hi guys

I'm back to Nortons after a 55 year gap and am the proud owner of a 1955 ES2. Forgive my memory loss but are all the nuts/bolts on the bike BSW as I have to invest in a new spanner set?

Any suggestions for a maintenance tool kit?

George

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My bike isn't standard but have found just about all the common threads so far, cycle, bsf and bsw plus the odd metric nut and bolt!

Inthink this topic was discussed in the lightweight section.

Some pics of your bike would be nice, I have a 55 ES2 and would like to see what it should look like!

dan

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Previously Dan Field wrote:

My bike isn't standard but have found just about all the common threads so far, cycle, bsf and bsw plus the odd metric nut and bolt!

Inthink this topic was discussed in the lightweight section.

Some pics of your bike would be nice, I have a 55 ES2 and would like to see what it should look like!

dan

Thanks Dan. I checked round the site and it appears that generally I should be looking for a BSW spanner set.

I have some good pics taken by the chap who rebuilt the ES2 so tomorrow I'll attempt to upload one or two.

George

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Previously anna jeannette Dixon wrote:

Hello well no Bracebridge built Machines there is 3 forms of thread sizes Whitworth being one and Cycle thread the other and British Association thread the next for small threads , British pipe thread is used on the fuel tape etc and you need a spanner set made by Shelly RT Shelly they made tools just be-hide bracebridge street and was apart of Norton Motors Aston, but like Jembro and Spearpoint tools you find these on ebay yours

Hi guys - I attach (hopefully) a pic of the ES2. Thanks for the guidance on spanners sets

Hi guys - I attach (hopefully) a pic of the ES2. Thanks for the guidance on spanners sets

Attachments
norton-2-jpg

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I wasn't going to reply but I will throw this in for what it is worth:

Although I do have a set of Whitworth combination spanners, most of the time I am using my metric socket set. The socket set I have has the following sizes in it: 8,10,11,12,13,14,15,17,19mm The 11mm socket was not originally in my set but I find that it fits a lot of Whitworth nuts. (1/4W?) Being that a 1mm difference in size equates to .04inch I think that this difference is probably within the socket makers tollerances. I see no need to go out and buy a set of Whitworth sockets. And the sockets work as well on my BMW R27.

Mike

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I gain great pleasure from using well-made, correctly fitting tools.

Regardless of the thread form, you'll find that predominantly spanners marked BSW / BSF are needed Although the thread size will vary, the hexagon heads follow the same standards.

If I had any sockets that were +/- 1mm tolerance then I'd chuck them straight in the skip.

If you do go down the rivet-counting original toolkit route, although R.T. Shelley owned Nortons and supplied tools to them, many were unbranded and identical tools were supplied branded AKD; Abingdon, or King Dick. Abingdon were owned by the Mansell family (Bill Mansell was connected with Shelley and became MD of Norton). The relationship seems to have been a little incestuous.

King Dick still make nice Whitworth tools. I use their sockets in a 3/8" drive version and find it handiest for most jobs on the bike.

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I bought most of my Whitworth spanners at car boot sales, autojumbles etc. There is at least one firm selling a cheap, reasonable row of 3/8" drive Whitworth sockets. Better spanners (King Dick etc) are slimmer and more accurately concentric and more likely to fit in tight places.Combination spanners are the work of the Devil. When you have a nut and bolt to undo, you put the ring end on one end - and then find the open end you also want is at the other end of the spanner you are already using. How maddening is that?Old fashioned tubular spanners have their uses as well. If you ever get a Norton Twin they are vital to remove the top three head nuts.Nice looking bike! Hopefully you won't need any spanners for a while anyway!

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Good quality tools produce good quality work.

As Rich says, King Dick tools are good. Also, German Elora, distributed by Draper, make a huge range of quality Whitworth and BA tools.

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Previously george_phillips wrote:

Previously anna jeannette Dixon wrote:

Hello well no Bracebridge built Machines there is 3 forms of thread sizes Whitworth being one and Cycle thread the other and British Association thread the next for small threads , British pipe thread is used on the fuel tape etc and you need a spanner set made by Shelly RT Shelly they made tools just be-hide bracebridge street and was apart of Norton Motors Aston, but like Jembro and Spearpoint tools you find these on ebay yours

Hi guys - I attach (hopefully) a pic of the ES2. Thanks for the guidance on spanners sets

Hi guys - I attach (hopefully) a pic of the ES2. Thanks for the guidance on spanners sets

yes a good looking Bracebridge street built motorcycle well done ! yours anna j

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Previously David Cooper wrote:

I bought most of my Whitworth spanners at car boot sales, autojumbles etc. There is at least one firm selling a cheap, reasonable row of 3/8" drive Whitworth sockets. Better spanners (King Dick etc) are slimmer and more accurately concentric and more likely to fit in tight places. Combination spanners are the work of the Devil. When you have a nut and bolt to undo, you put the ring end on one end - and then find the open end you also want is at the other end of the spanner you are already using. How maddening is that? Old fashioned tubular spanners have their uses as well. If you ever get a Norton Twin they are vital to remove the top three head nuts. Nice looking bike! Hopefully you won't need any spanners for a while anyway!

Thanks David. A most sensible answer. Do yu know if the spannesr will fit the tappet adjusters or do I need a special "slim spanner". George

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My single is a side valve, sadly, so someone else may help. But they are so easy to come by that if I need a specially slim one then I put on my safety glasses and spend a few minutes at a cheap grinding wheel. According to my book you'll need a pair of 1/4" Whit open ended spanners - they don't look very special.David.

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Do you have a manual to go with it? Andover Norton list 'F Neill Norton Service and Overhaul Manual' which dates from early '60's and includes ES2, and also the earlier 'Norton - E M Franks' from the late 1940's (probably since it was re-published a few times I think). Neill is probably more useful I guess.

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Previously David Cooper wrote:

Do you have a manual to go with it? Andover Norton list 'F Neill Norton Service and Overhaul Manual' which dates from early '60's and includes ES2, and also the earlier 'Norton - E M Franks' from the lute 1940's (probably since it was re-published a few times I think). Neill is probably more useful I guess.

Thanks Davis. yep - I have three "Book of the Norton" manuls by W C Haycroft. An early 50's, a mid 50's and a 55 - 62 version (9th edition) plus a couple fo spares booklets, all of which I have hung onto for nealy sixty years. I always knew they would come in handy! I'm still having trouble with the tappet adjustment. The pushrods can be turned but ony wth a spanner - not by finger. I am of the view that this is too tight. An comment?

George

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I forgot to mention that a long time ago, just after I had bought my Model50 I found that I too had trouble adjusting the pushrod clearances. To cure the problem I visited my local autohumble and bought two undersized end wrenches for about $1.00 ea.. I ground the jaw opening just enough to get a good tight fit on the adjuster nuts. I then ground the thickness down to the point that I could get both wrenches on the adjuster nuts at the same time. I carry them with me all the time. Not very technical but they have worked for me since 1994.

Mike

p.s. When properly adjusted they should be free to turn but with no up and down clearance. When the cylinder heats up and expands/elongates the clearances will open up.

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If your bike ends up with a mixture of nuts and bolts you could try using Metrinch spanners. i have a set that I have had for years and carry them on my outfit (imperial threads on the sidecar and metric on the bike). They have proved etremely useful when working on the Norton and I will be carrying them when the bike is up and running.

Cheers

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Previously michael_sullivan wrote:

I forgot to mention that a long time ago, just after I had bought my Model50 I found that I too had trouble adjusting the pushrod clearances. To cure the problem I visited my local autohumble and bought two undersized end wrenches for about $1.00 ea.. I ground the jaw opening just enough to get a good tight fit on the adjuster nuts. I then ground the thickness down to the point that I could get both wrenches on the adjuster nuts at the same time. I carry them with me all the time. Not very technical but they have worked for me since 1994.

Mike

p.s. When properly adjusted they should be free to turn but with no up and down clearance. When the cylinder heats up and expands/elongates the clearances will open up.

Thanks MIke - looks like I'll have to invest ina bench grinder! Should the rods be capable of being turned by hand (or fingers) as mine need a spanner?

George

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Previously jak_lemon wrote:

If your bike ends up with a mixture of nuts and bolts you could try using Metrinch spanners. i have a set that I have had for years and carry them on my outfit (imperial threads on the sidecar and metric on the bike). They have proved etremely useful when working on the Norton and I will be carrying them when the bike is up and running.

Cheers

Thanks for that tip, Jak. I'll look into the Metricnh range. I sunds like a viable answer.

George

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George:

You should not need a wrench to turn the pushrods after adjusting. The "Illustrated Workshop Instruction" Manual says the following:

Tappet clearance cold: "Push rods to be free to rotate without up and down movement with piston on compression stroke"

In section No. 53 the book says the following: "When adjusting the exhaust tappet, set on the slack, rather than on the tight side. Check tappets immediately there is any sign of loss of compression"

Mike

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Previously michael_sullivan wrote:

George:

You should not need a wrench to turn the pushrods after adjusting. The "Illustrated Workshop Instruction" Manual says the following:

Tappet clearance cold: "Push rods to be free to rotate without up and down movement with piston on compression stroke"

In section No. 53 the book says the following: "When adjusting the exhaust tappet, set on the slack, rather than on the tight side. Check tappets immediately there is any sign of loss of compression"

Mike

Thanks MIke, that's what I Ineeded to hear. I do niot feel much compressim when kicking it over although it souds OK when running. Still having truble with "tappet spanners" so may have to resort to the grinding wheel.

George

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Previously George Phillips wrote:

Previously michael_sullivan wrote:

George:

You should not need a wrench to turn the pushrods after adjusting. The "Illustrated Workshop Instruction" Manual says the following:

Tappet clearance cold: "Push rods to be free to rotate without up and down movement with piston on compression stroke"

In section No. 53 the book says the following: "When adjusting the exhaust tappet, set on the slack, rather than on the tight side. Check tappets immediately there is any sign of loss of compression"

Mike

Thanks MIke, that's what I Ineeded to hear. I do niot feel much compressim when kicking it over although it souds OK when running. Still having truble with "tappet spanners" so may have to resort to the grinding wheel.

George

Thanks to everyone who reponded. I've invested in a set of Metinch spanners and ground and old metric spanner down (and widended it slighty) and finally managed to loosen the tappets which did prove to be too tight. Bike sounds much better although the weather precludes a test run. If you have nothing else to do have a look at my latest query re the non-operative exhaust lifter!

Cheers

George

 



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