Timing chain adusment

Thanks David.I must admit I'd had a "long day" when I stopped working on it so I'll check that out tommorow. It just appeared that a spanner coud not get in there. The good book gives the impession that the timing cover has to be removed first. We'll see.

George

Previously richard_cornish wrote:

Hi George,

Although the mag-dyno is held by the large bolt which passes through the platform and the small locking bolt directly beneath it, the platform is effectively clamped between the engine plates. First loosen the locking bolt behind the timing chain cover then hold the platform main bolt on the timing side with a suitable spanner and undo it's nut on theprimary chain side. Next loosen the engine plate bolt nearest to it in the same way. Hopefully this should be enough to let the mag move, but if not you may have to loosen others. There is no adjuster so you will just have to lever the mag as necessary so you have about 3/8th inch movement at the halfway point and then tighten up in reverse order.Do not over-tighten the small lock bolt as this is 26 tpi which is too fine a thread in aluminium and strips easily. Don't know if anyone has a better method, but it works for me. Popping on the over-run is more likely to be an air leak in the exhaust or inlet or a fault in the carburation rather than the ignition so try the easiest things first. Regards, Richard.

Many thanks for that comprehensive reply, Richard. I'll try and follow it. As for the popping I'm sure you're right. I had an ES2in the '50s and could never get the exhaust collar to seal properly and and it popped and banged like a good 'un. I will certainly check the easy things first as you suggest.

Regards

George

Previously George Phillips wrote:

Previously richard_cornish wrote:

Hi George,

Although the mag-dyno is held by the large bolt which passes through the platform and the small locking bolt directly beneath it, the platform is effectively clamped between the engine plates. First loosen the locking bolt behind the timing chain cover then hold the platform main bolt on the timing side with a suitable spanner and undo it's nut on theprimary chain side. Next loosen the engine plate bolt nearest to it in the same way. Hopefully this should be enough to let the mag move, but if not you may have to loosen others. There is no adjuster so you will just have to lever the mag as necessary so you have about 3/8th inch movement at the halfway point and then tighten up in reverse order.Do not over-tighten the small lock bolt as this is 26 tpi which is too fine a thread in aluminium and strips easily. Don't know if anyone has a better method, but it works for me. Popping on the over-run is more likely to be an air leak in the exhaust or inlet or a fault in the carburation rather than the ignition so try the easiest things first. Regards, Richard.

Many thanks for that comprehensive reply, Richard. I'll try and follow it. As for the popping I'm sure you're right. I had an ES2in the '50s and could never get the exhaust collar to seal properly and and it popped and banged like a good 'un. I will certainly check the easy things first as you suggest.

Regards

George

Hi Richard

Did as you suggested and - despite dreadfull access to a couple of nuts - managed to pull th e timing chain up to tension. The rear bolt clamping the engine/magdyno plate in the frame, was loose. Second loose engine bolt I've found since I took possession a couple of weeks back.The flow and return oil pipes pass right in front of the nuts on the timing side so making access very tricky. Then adjusted the slow speed running and am awatng a break in the weather to test the overrun but so far so good. Many thanls for your help.

George