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Wideline Featherbed frame

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what yorks will fit a wideline featherbed frame will any of the commandos fit can any one help please

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Hi Shawn,

The Commando forks would fit but would be too long, 21,8" for the Dominator, 23.3" for the Commando which would mess up the steering geometry. The threads used in the Commando forks also have different threads to the Dominator forks and parts which appear the same would not fit together. The fork yolks fitted on the wideline models were 7" between centers which were super-ceded by yolks with 7 3/8" between centers. I hope that this clears up some of your questions,

Regards, Rob.

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I once fitted an Atlas with a set of early Commando Yokes. They went on the headstock quite easily. I then attached a set of Dominator stanchions and boots to help keep thesteering geometry correct. I used Dominator top nuts on the stanchions. The old cup and ball headstock bearings were replaced with a set ofsealedball bearings. I had to buy a spacer tube to go between these bearings to spread the front end loading. The only things I had to be careful of were the stem and yoke pinch bolt threadswere different. (UNF???)

I might be wrong but can not see a reason why a set of later Commando yokes can not be fitted to a featherbed frame either. The stanchions and internal damper bits are different but do not have to be used. The only obvious issue might be a change in head angle with the very late Commando yokes.

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Previously phil_hannam wrote:

I once fitted an Atlas with a set of early Commando Yokes. They went on the headstock quite easily. I then attached a set of Dominator stanchions and boots to help keep thesteering geometry correct. I used Dominator top nuts on the stanchions. The old cup and ball headstock bearings were replaced with a set ofsealedball bearings. I had to buy a spacer tube to go between these bearings to spread the front end loading. The only things I had to be careful of were the stem and yoke pinch bolt threadswere different. (UNF???)

I might be wrong but can not see a reason why a set of later Commando yokes can not be fitted to a featherbed frame either. The stanchions and internal damper bits are different but do not have to be used. The only obvious issue might be a change in head angle with the very late Commando yokes.

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Previously shawn_crossfield wrote:

Previously phil_hannam wrote:

I once fitted an Atlas with a set of early Commando Yokes. They went on the headstock quite easily. I then attached a set of Dominator stanchions and boots to help keep thesteering geometry correct. I used Dominator top nuts on the stanchions. The old cup and ball headstock bearings were replaced with a set ofsealedball bearings. I had to buy a spacer tube to go between these bearings to spread the front end loading. The only things I had to be careful of were the stem and yoke pinch bolt threadswere different. (UNF???)

I might be wrong but can not see a reason why a set of later Commando yokes can not be fitted to a featherbed frame either. The stanchions and internal damper bits are different but do not have to be used. The only obvious issue might be a change in head angle with the very late Commando yokes.

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Hi,

I am interested to read this. I am trying to fit a set of early Commando yokes to my wideline frame. I have purchased the taper bearings from NOC spares and they appear to protrude about 5 mm above the headstock. Is this normal? The consequence of this that I cannot get the bottom nut on and the internal spacer tube-from Andover Norton has a gap of 8 mm between the bearings. I have fitted the bearings with both tapers facing outwards. I have measured the stems and they appear to be the same legnth i.e. 81/4 inches.

Can anybody help please?

Peter Leigh

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A pair of Commando sealed steering head bearings may be a better option, but would require the internal spacer tube to be fitted as well.

Simon.

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This is the drawback of using taper rollers in the headstock. The centres protrude and add to the length of the stem. Which then pushes the yokes apart makes the headlamp brackets rattle on a Domiie. You can get them ground down to bringdimensions back to normal. It is much easier to use sealed ball bearings and the spacer tube.

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Previously simon_ratcliff wrote:

A pair of Commando sealed steering head bearings may be a better option, but would require the internal spacer tube to be fitted as well.

Simon.

Many thanks, I'll go down this route.

Peter

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Previously phil_hannam wrote:

This is the drawback of using taper rollers in the headstock. The centres protrude and add to the length of the stem. Which then pushes the yokes apart makes the headlamp brackets rattle on a Domiie. You can get them ground down to bringdimensions back to normal. It is much easier to use sealed ball bearings and the spacer tube.

Many thanks, As I have said to Simon this is the riute I will take. I have the tube so this should not be a problem.

Peter

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I read with interest about the commando fork change but could not see the reason why if all components in the roadholders are good, the only reason could be to fit a disc brake.My 1956 Dominator in cafe racer trim, is running a double sided twin leading shoe from a 1972 Suzuki GT 750 Kettle and apart from a vast improvement in stopping power it loos remarkably like the Fontana double sided brake, maybe this was the idea in Japanese copying in those days but boy does it work.

Mike

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Previously peter_leigh wrote:

Hi,

I am interested to read this. I am trying to fit a set of early Commando yokes to my wideline frame. I have purchased the taper bearings from NOC spares and they appear to protrude about 5 mm above the headstock. Is this normal? The consequence of this that I cannot get the bottom nut on and the internal spacer tube-from Andover Norton has a gap of 8 mm between the bearings. I have fitted the bearings with both tapers facing outwards. I have measured the stems and they appear to be the same legnth i.e. 81/4 inches.

Can anybody help please?

Peter Leigh

hello well when I did my 1954 dominator and fitted taper roller they fitted nicely below the top of the head stock tube by 1/8 th of a inch so there is something wrong here with your ones so if I were you I pay more attention too this problem and remove the ones in there and take look at why there not fitting right. there is no tube between the top and bottom taper roller only a spacer washer and the top cover cupped washer that goes over the top. and bottom as well packed with waterproof grease . I say this as not all grease is waterproof , so check before using. yours Anna j

Dixon

 



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