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Rim clamps - are they needed?

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So long story short. I too am switching to Avon rubber and decided to replace the rims with some stainless at the time. The rear rim didn’t come pre-drilled for a rim clamp. Does anyone have experience using wheels without?  

WM2 19’s fitted to 750 combat, roadster. 

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Didn’t have them on original wheels on my 750 Combat and didn’t bother with them on new wheels I built in stainless. I ran TT 100/K81’s originally and plan on doing the same when rebuild is done. Never had any evidence of tire slippage but I don’t go around popping wheelies - have done some hard stopping and again , no evidence of either tire slipping.

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On my Mercury I didn't have security bolts (rim clamps) when I had new rims, but some years later toured around Europe with full camping equipment and had two rear wheel instant deflations when the tyre slipped and tore the valve out of the tube.

After that I fitted a security bolt to the rear wheel and have toured extensively two up with full luggage and not suffered these frightening punctures.  For peace of mind and a few quid I would fit one.

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When these bikes were built manufacturers would do just about anything to save a few quid. If they did not think security bolts worth while they would not have fitted them.I have had at least 7 high speed deflations 4 on cars/vans ,3 on bikes fitted with rim locks. No crashes due to tyres leaving rims or jamming in forks. Just about stayed in control. Would it have been different without locks?,who knows.

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My 1970 Commando came with security bolts on both the front and rear wheels. These were a pain to deal with when changing tyres or sorting out a puncture. Plus they tended to needed huge amounts of weights hanging off the opposite spokes to balance up the wheel.

My 70s Cafe race Dommie came with Borrani Alloy rims which had vertical corrugation on the inside of the rims to grip the tyres. This worked well and saved having to fit security bolts.

My present Cafe Race style Dommie now has flangeless Alloy rims but no corrugations or other means of security. But then I don't drive as fast as I did 40 years ago so the tyres do get a slightly easier life.

Of interest to some people might be the attachment. It shows the inside of one of the flangeless rims as sent back to me by the wheel builder. You can see some of the damage caused by the grinding disk used to cut the spoke ends down. This is just sheer laziness by someone who should know better. The cuts go all round the inside of this rim and possibly compromise the integrity of it. Professional or Cowboy???

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My Model 88 has rim clamps, or to use the English term, security bolts.  They sure make it harder to fit or remove tyres, and cause massive wheel imbalance.  I don't think my bike's paltry 30 bhp justifies their fitment.  Does anyone make something to fill the hole in the rim?

Paul

In advance of receiving the rim I had already purchased the rim clamp (security bolt). My dilemma was whether to drill a hole in the brand new shiny rim or not. I think the consensus for a rear wheel is better be safe than sorry. 

 

Picture of my setup (yes in the dining room) for my first attempt to build a wheel. Wheel building

 

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