electra- engine oil -

From the manual, personally I use a simple 20-50.

Lubrication A vital factor in the life and satisfactory performance of your motor cycle is the regular use of the correct grade o f good quality lubricant. At the works Wakefield Castrol Oils have been used exclusively for many years with perfectly satisfactory results. The correct grades for your engine being:— WAKEFIELD CASTROL XXL FOR SUMMER USE. (SAE40). WAKEFIELD CASTROL XL FOR WINTER USE. (SAE30). Other very suitable oils are:— Shell—X—100—40 or B.P. Energol S.A.E. 40 for Summer use. Shell—X—100—30 or B.P. Energol S.A.E. 30 for Winter use. Mobiloil “ BB” for Summer use. Mobiloil “ A” for Winter use. Essolube 40 for Summer use. Essolube 30 for Winter use. For conditions of extreme high temperature, i.e. equatorial or sub-equatorial, a grade heavier than that specified above may be used, whilst for conditions of extreme cold one grade lighter could be employed to advantage. Note—As soon as possible after 500 miles have been covered, the oil tank should be drained, flushed out and filled with fresh oil. The filter in the base of the sump should also be removed and cleaned.

Was about to ask the same question would the multigrade be suitable for the primary as well 

Considering the level of technology in these engines then I would be very happy with a good quality multygrade 20-50. And I would use it in the primary as well, what is more to the point is that with the above engine that has been laid up for some time, you change the oil straight away now and then again very soon 500 miles or less so that any nasty water and sludge is removed. It might even be a good idea to remove and clean the oil tank before you fire it up, drop the sump off etc.

I agree with Alan although I prefer a thinner primary oil. Hard to find these days. 10/40 cheap stuff?.

Hi Todd, 

I agree with Al, a good 20/50 designed for 'classic era' engines of the 60's such as Morris' Golden Film has proved ideal in my Navigator.   I suggest taking the oil tank off, removing the filter / strainer and flushing it out is essential if it has been standing that long - I was horrified by the debris that came out of mine when I did that!   Before I flushed it I ran the engine on tick over for 30 mins with a good quality flushing oil then removed the sump strainer - again I was amazed by the muck that it removed.   I replaced the sump plate and gauze strainer with one from the NOC shop with the magnetic drain plug.   After 500 miles I did an oil and filter change which showed more debris but since then the magnetic plug and gauze strainer have been clean at the last 1000 mile oil change.    I have also been using Molyslip oil additive which seems to help the engine run that little bit cooler and smoother - although that may just be my wishful thinking!    As for the primary side I've been using 20/50 there so far which is OK but the clutch needs freeing off before starting and even then 'clunks' when engaging 1st.   I am tempted to try something thinner - my RE Bullet Classic uses ATF in the primary side very successfully - has anyone experience of what works best?

Nick