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Hi

Still trying to sort my electrical problem, somehow my new wiring loom. new 4 way ignition switch and new headlight loom just wont play ball.

I have 13.18v at the battery and at the switch all earths show current flow all wires are fitted as wire diagram redundant wires for capacitor, diode, rectifier, regulator and warning light assimilator are all taped but still nothing works not a murmur from anything.

I really have run out of ideas and what to check as everything shows continuity even putting the horn straight across the battery doesn't work.

Help

Malcolm

Permalink

You need to load test the battery, just because it shows a good voltage does not mean it can supply any amps. Had that very issue before, good volts but not a peep when connected to anything.

Permalink

Previously malcolm_patterson wrote:

Hi

Still trying to sort my electrical problem, somehow my new wiring loom. new 4 way ignition switch and new headlight loom just wont play ball.

Help

Hi Malcolm

Might be time to pop that multimeter back in the tool box and break out the test lamp.

Where are you located ? Maybe someone local can lend a hand.

Best regards

Katherine Scott

Permalink

Is this a genuine loom? You say that you have taped up the redundant wires.... has the capacitor 2 live wires going to it? I've seen a case where the live tag links the lives circuit. Try joining the 2 brown/blues which would go to the capacitor..

If it is a wassell (lucas Cry) loom. Check the bullet terminals, I have come across terminals that are crimped onto the insulation and miss the conductor.

Paul

If you have put the horn across the battery and it doesn't work, either knackered horn or knackered battery.

Permalink

I once had an AGM type battery which failed after a few months (and was tested by the supplier and was replaced FOC).

It showed a good voltage, and when I connected a 'smart charger' it showed fully charged. However despite that it had no power and would not, for instance, have sounded a horn connected across the terminals.

Suggest you check out the battery by loading something else across the terminals eg headlight bulb in case the horn is US.

Permalink

Previously paul_nicholls wrote:

Is this a genuine loom? You say that you have taped up the redundant wires.... has the capacitor 2 live wires going to it? I've seen a case where the live tag links the lives circuit. Try joining the 2 brown/blues which would go to the capacitor..

If it is a wassell (lucas Cry) loom. Check the bullet terminals, I have come across terminals that are crimped onto the insulation and miss the conductor.

Paul

If you have put the horn across the battery and it doesn't work, either knackered horn or knackered battery.

Hi Paul

The loom is AN the bullet connectors are crimped like a stamped or pre fabricated and with the amount of fault finding I've been doing some are showing signs of wear. The last defining moment came when a flash was witnessed when checking the brown wire from front brake switch to rear brake switch brown to brown, nothing has worked since that happened.The capacitor wires/ballast resistor 2nd Diode, Rectifier are not used presumably because I have a Powerbox PBOX00108 electric ignition. What could the flash on the brown wire have done. Also I've added another letter to the forum to update what I've tried this week.

I live in York, North Yorkshire if any body lives close and could help I'd be eternally grateful for any input givenits my first Norton in 40 years of riding I can't let it beat me.

Regards

Malcolm

Permalink

Previously richard_mills wrote:

I once had an AGM type battery which failed after a few months (and was tested by the supplier and was replaced FOC).

It showed a good voltage, and when I connected a 'smart charger' it showed fully charged. However despite that it had no power and would not, for instance, have sounded a horn connected across the terminals.

Suggest you check out the battery by loading something else across the terminals eg headlight bulb in case the horn is US.

Hi Richard

The re-wiring of my bike was working, Horn and new Motobatt battery until a flash from the brown wire. I will try a bulb test next as the multimeter isn't showing any faults. The fuse has never blown and the horn works off slave wiring.

Thank You

Malcolm

Permalink

Previously malcolm_patterson wrote:

Previously paul_nicholls wrote:

Is this a genuine loom? You say that you have taped up the redundant wires.... has the capacitor 2 live wires going to it? I've seen a case where the live tag links the lives circuit. Try joining the 2 brown/blues which would go to the capacitor..

If it is a wassell (lucas Cry) loom. Check the bullet terminals, I have come across terminals that are crimped onto the insulation and miss the conductor.

Paul

If you have put the horn across the battery and it doesn't work, either knackered horn or knackered battery.

Hi Paul

The loom is AN the bullet connectors are crimped like a stamped or pre fabricated and with the amount of fault finding I've been doing some are showing signs of wear. The last defining moment came when a flash was witnessed when checking the brown wire from front brake switch to rear brake switch brown to brown, nothing has worked since that happened.The capacitor wires/ballast resistor 2nd Diode, Rectifier are not used presumably because I have a Powerbox PBOX00108 electric ignition. What could the flash on the brown wire have done. Also I've added another letter to the forum to update what I've tried this week.

I live in York, North Yorkshire if any body lives close and could help I'd be eternally grateful for any input givenits my first Norton in 40 years of riding I can't let it beat me.

Regards

Malcolm

Oh and I've joined the brown/blues together but no better.

Permalink

Previously Katherine Scott wrote:

Previously malcolm_patterson wrote:

Hi

Still trying to sort my electrical problem, somehow my new wiring loom. new 4 way ignition switch and new headlight loom just wont play ball.

Help

Hi Malcolm

Might be time to pop that multimeter back in the tool box and break out the test lamp.

Where are you located ? Maybe someone local can lend a hand.

Best regards

Katherine Scott

Hi Katherine

Yes i'll try the bulb test next.

I live near York if anybody could help.

Thank You

Malcolm

Permalink

Previously malcolm_patterson wrote:

Hi

Still trying to sort my electrical problem, somehow my new wiring loom. new 4 way ignition switch and new headlight loom just wont play ball.

I have 13.18v at the battery and at the switch all earths show current flow all wires are fitted as wire diagram redundant wires for capacitor, diode, rectifier, regulator and warning light assimilator are all taped but still nothing works not a murmur from anything.

I really have run out of ideas and what to check as everything shows continuity even putting the horn straight across the battery doesn't work.

Help

Malcolm

Just tried horn with slave wires and it worked.

Permalink

Hi Malcolm

You said that you had 13.8 volts at the switch, have you confirmed that switched outputs match the key position on the ignition switch terminals?

Regards

Katherine

Permalink

Previously Katherine Scott wrote:

Hi Malcolm

You said that you had 13.8 volts at the switch, have you confirmed that switched outputs match the key position on the ignition switch terminals?

Regards

Katherine

Hi Katherine

No I haven't tried this, what variation should I get and am I correct in thinking its position 4 = parking lights key out. 3 =off key out. 2 =ignition with lights key in. 1 = ignition no lights key in.

Regards

Malcolm

 


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