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Featherbed frame crack issues

Hello everyone.

Not sure if this has been covered on here previously but I can't see it has but I'm sure most will have seen the article in RH 326 especially the gusset crack mentioned by John Morgan. When I saw that I looked at my Inter low and behold both side were suffering from the same issue.

Having discussed this with both John and Barry Stickland, who incidentally says his is like that and has been for years, he says not to be too concerned. He does not advocate drilling to stop spread either, just leave it he says, the welds hold. Unless you are doing a complete strip down and rebuild/repaint do nothing. If you read what John says he did that and after while they came back. Barry also adds he thinks and seems to recall McCandless did not want to add that plate anyway, the frame flexes and can cope with stresses it was only added by Reynolds/Norton to give support and strengthening for kerb and pothole impacts and is in fact not fitted to Manx frames at all.

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It might be worth bearing in mind, with regard to this cracking issue (good pun there) that the material used for making Manx frames differes from that generally used on the Inter version. Plus cracking and bending frames has caught out the Norton Factory on a regular basis. The Featherbed frames cracked under the headstock and around the downtube engine mounts. The Mercury frames seemed to be made of plasticine and easily folded or twisted. The early Commando also had its share of grief that only ended after a redesign around the headstock. Even the new 961 has not escaped with a number of early frames being rejected due to rust around the weldings.

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Phil

Per Barry Stickland (and who would argue with him the font of all cammy knowlege)

Yes, Inter frames were A grade 531, however 'some' were Manx grade and indeed had a tube inserted down inside the front down tubes (to stiffen them for road use I assume) The only way to find out is to either drill into it or xray them, I'm doing neither.

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This, I'm sure, came up a long time ago, probably in Rodholder, with, I think, John Hudson's opinion on the matter. I seem to recall that Rex Mac Candless, who designed the frame, warned Norton that the frame would crack precisely there, and Norton didn't take any notice.

They all do that, sir. I have two featherbed frames, and they both did. After an accident in 93, before trhe Czech rally, I had to get the frame straightened on my atlas, and they welded it up. It cracked again. Three years ago, the frame being badly damaged on the lower loop, where the main stand hits it when springing up, I took it to a very good frame repairer in Bordeaux, and he rewelded it. It's not cracked again... yet. My other frame, on my special, is cracked too, has been for ages, but that didn't stop me going to Austria several times, England and Germany last year, and various other rallies, it doesn't seemto get any worse. Anyway, I'm definitely not going to worry about it.

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The problem with welding up cracks is the method used to do it. The worst being arc welding which can destroy the property of the metal being fixed. You then end up with what is known as 'brittle weld failure' where the metal each side of the welded section suffers metalurgical changes and becomes incredibly fragile. Extremes of weather and viabration can trigger such joints into failing. MiG or TiG should be safer but this is what John Morgan had down and his frame fix still failed.

According to Dave Degans of Dresda Autos fame. The safest method is to braze any frame cracks or joints that need repairs. Frames constructed of 531 were bronze brazed,

The Featherbed frames were welded mostly where the metal was thickest. ie around the head stock. How the cross tubes were welded in without causing problems I do not know. But the rear silencer/footrest hangers were well known for cracking at the frame joint.

Some Inter and also some early 88 bikes had proper Manx frames constructed from 531. Most, however, had frames constructed from mild steel. grade A for the Inter and grade B for the standard roadgoing machines.

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Previously Phil Hannam wrote:

The problem with welding up cracks is the method used to do it. The worst being arc welding which can destroy the property of the metal being fixed. You then end up with what is known as 'brittle weld failure' where the metal each side of the welded section suffers metalurgical changes and becomes incredibly fragile. Extremes of weather and viabration can trigger such joints into failing. MiG or TiG should be safer but this is what John Morgan had down and his frame fix still failed.

According to Dave Degans of Dresda Autos fame. The safest method is to braze any frame cracks or joints that need repairs. Frames constructed of 531 were bronze brazed,

The Featherbed frames were welded mostly where the metal was thickest. ie around the head stock. How the cross tubes were welded in without causing problems I do not know. But the rear silencer/footrest hangers were well known for cracking at the frame joint.

Some Inter and also some early 88 bikes had proper Manx frames constructed from 531. Most, however, had frames constructed from mild steel. grade A for the Inter and grade B for the standard roadgoing machines.

I wholly agree Phil.I wonder if it's an 'age thing' as I never came across it when I worked for Colmore. And we all get a bit fragile with that! (We're talking about half a century ago!!) Hmm.

Regards

Ian

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Stop bragging about your age or I might have to send an article, about Zimmers Frames, in to Roadholder.

My first cracking experience (another bad pun) happened in 1982 when the welded-in cross-tube, above the swinging arm, on my 1967 Atlas decided to impersonate a jigsaw. Not that old for a frame but it had spent its first 4 years as a proddie racer and then clocked up 70,000 road miles. None of the local bike shops would touch it when I tried to get the cracks welded-up as they all believed the tubing to be 531. In the end, I hacked a length of angled steel off an old road sign and arc welded it to the cross-tube myself. It was still in place 20 years later.

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Previously Phil Hannam wrote:

Stop bragging about your age or I might have to send an article, about Zimmers Frames, in to Roadholder.

My first cracking experience (another bad pun) happened in 1982 when the welded-in cross-tube, above the swinging arm, on my 1967 Atlas decided to impersonate a jigsaw. Not that old for a frame but it had spent its first 4 years as a proddie racer and then clocked up 70,000 road miles. None of the local bike shops would touch it when I tried to get the cracks welded-up as they all believed the tubing to be 531. In the end, I hacked a length of angled steel off an old road sign and arc welded it to the cross-tube myself. It was still in place 20 years later.

Hello phil Quick folding featherbed frames and Zimmer frames for sale on ebay! and by 60 odd years were all cracking up by then anyway if you need a frame welding Mig or Tig is the best way too go, yours Anna J

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At last! Someone else who has used a bit of road sign to repair a bike. I have used arc weld to repair the ears which hold the passenger footrests and silencers. Not the neatest job but it worked fine. I once identified a stolen bike by standing up in court and describing a welding repair I did on it. Again, not a beautiful weld but myall too honest description of itconvinced the sheriff. The T Leaf was convicted and the bike returned to its rightful owner.

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Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

At last! Someone else who has used a bit of road sign to repair a bike. I have used arc weld to repair the ears which hold the passenger footrests and silencers. Not the neatest job but it worked fine. I once identified a stolen bike by standing up in court and describing a welding repair I did on it. Again, not a beautiful weld but myall too honest description of itconvinced the sheriff. The T Leaf was convicted and the bike returned to its rightful owner.

Ha Ha Gordon, I always thought road signs were more likely to destoy bikes not mend 'emcheeky

 


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