Oil tank connections

Hi George, I think that should be thread gauge. For '56 the oil tank oulet boss is 1" 20tpi. Looking at thread tables the only match I can see for this size is Cycle which offers 2 pitches for 1" diameter, 20 & 26.

Cheers, Ian McD

The dimension given is for the oil feed connection (the larger/outermost of the two, with the mesh filter) on a '56 tank. I think your '55 tank is a different shape but I was assuming the connections are the same size. I could have that wrong.

Cheers, Ian McD

Hi George,

The thread on the oil filter outlet/pipe connection is 1/4" BSP. As you may know the 1/4" refers to the nominal bore size, not the actual diameter of the thread. This is the same size as the petrol taps and breather pipes on the drive side crankcase and the oil tank, also the oil tank return pipe. BSP fittings are still current and widely used, particularly on compressed air fittings, so should be easy to get in a selection of connections. Are you thinking of fitting a tap to this outlet?

Regards, Richard.

I hadn't realised that the spigot could be separated from the adaptor. Still learning!

Ian McD

Previously Ian MacDougall wrote:

I hadn't realised that the spigot could be separated from the adaptor. Still learning!

Ian McD

Hi Ian,

I guess you already know this part is all one piece, the descriptive wording doesn't always convey what we want to say!! Although having said that it would be possible to cut off the pipe fitting flush andcut a female thread so an oiltap could be screwed directly into it. You won't get many threads in the thickness, so it will need to be securely soldered together.

George,

An oil tap could catch you out if you don't have a fail-safe reminder, but a quick action drain-cock sounds like an accident waiting to happen??

Richard.

Previously richard_cornish wrote:

Previously Ian MacDougall wrote:

I hadn't realised that the spigot could be separated from the adaptor. Still learning!

Ian McD

Hi Ian,

I guess you already know this part is all one piece, the descriptive wording doesn't always convey what we want to say!! Although having said that it would be possible to cut off the pipe fitting flush andcut a female thread so an oiltap could be screwed directly into it. You won't get many threads in the thickness, so it will need to be securely soldered together.

George,

An oil tap could catch you out if you don't have a fail-safe reminder, but a quick action drain-cock sounds like an accident waiting to happen??

Richard.

hi george/ian,have a look at kingpin components,they have a new tap,1/4 and 3/8 bsp connections, with a wire which connects to the magneto cut out,the bike wont start with the tap closed,

Hi George. people seem to make a lot of fuss about this sumping business. I just start the bike ('57 ES2) and it starts and runs fine. Yes, the oil tank level does fall a bit after a couple of weeks but it soon pumps back up and I notice no ill effects resulting from starting on a partially filled sump. The worst I have seen was after the snow last winter when I had left it for about 6 weeks but even then I only noticed a bit of exhaust smoke on starting which soon cleared.

One possible point is that the vendor told me that a Morgo oil pump was fitted. I don't know if that makes any difference but it could be a factor.

Cheers...........Chris

A nice new steel-bodied (as per the twins - no more distorting monkey-metal) oil pump from Andover Norton will solve all of this, without the risks associated with taps or springs.

Fot what its worth.. my Dommie with cast steel pump wet sumps far quicker than my 16H.

No problem with neither the ES2 nor the 16H. Sump content automatically goes out to the ground.

Anteriormente George Phillips escribiÃ?:

Ups. Es mÃ?s de £ 200 para la bomba - omità agregar el IVA!

DespuÃ?s de limpiar varias veces el piso sucio con aceite, mÃ?s los enojos de mi esposa, logrÃ? un cierre perfecto con una electrovÃ?lvula en mi 16h.

Ver archivo.

Saludos

I hope understand me (my english is almost like your Spanish), but think that with the help of the Google translater, we can understand each other.

In my 16h managed to adapt a solenoid valve that when current (12Varrives, produced a displacement of an internal piston that allows the oil to drain to the engine.

When the engined is turned off it cuts off the current and a spring returns the pistonto seal against a rubber ring(o`rings). Can you the picture.

Greetings, Gerardo

Previously George Phillips wrote:

Probably sound advice!! But my Spanish is limited to asking for a table for two, ordering beer and a small meal! Can any one translate please?

George

George;little tip: Ifyou have googletranslate on asmartphone, selectthelanguage thentpress thecamera icon on thephone. Lookat the screenviayourphoneand itwilltranslate directly. Iuse and IPhonebutsure itworksonmostothers.

Cheers

Jon

PS:you cando thesamewitha Menu

I hope understand me (my english is almost like your Spanish), but think that with the help of the Google translater, we can understand each other.

In my 16h managed to adapt a solenoid valve that when current (12Varrives, produced a displacement of an internal piston that allows the oil to drain to the engine.

When the engined is turned off it cuts off the current and a spring returns the pistonto seal against a rubber ring(o`rings). Can you the picture.

Greetings, Gerardo

I wonder where the power comes from, Gerardo. You must rely on the voltage from the dynamo. But then what? Does the solenoid draw power all the time, or does it use a latching relay? If it uses a relay, then how do you switch it off again? And as Ian says - isn't is taking a big risk? There are lots of stories on this message board about engines being damaged through not opening the valve, but are there any stories about damage caused by wet sumping?

Is there a way to arrange a cut out earth wire on a magneto for the singles - like the one on the twins? If so, it would be fairly simple to have a switch connected to the tap, so it closes to earth the magneto when the valve is closed.

ps I paste your Spanish straight into Google.

Gerrardo:

Where did you purchase the solenoid oil valve?

Manufacturer's part number?

Mike

Previously michael_sullivan wrote:

Gerrardo:

Where did you purchase the solenoid oil valve?

Manufacturer's part number?

Mike

Dear Michael:

It is a valve used for the passage of fuel ( in truck engines, I think Cummins). you can get it in your country, I think.

Attention, it took me several hours of work to adapt it, due to the little space, see the photo(magneto-jpg 578,1kb), analyze very well before buying it, they are for "12 V" .(My Norton has a theold MagDYno), which is 12V and 60W (at 1000 RPM it produces 35 W). Al its lights are led.

You must also use 20 W 50, multi- regulated oil, for better circulation.

Greetings, at your disposal.

Gerardo (disculpas por mi mal InglÃ?s)