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Polychromatic blue paint code X match

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Hello to all who need the X match for Polychromatic Blue. The Paint is a Lotus colour, Pacific Blue Metallic. In '2 Pack' (that's lacquer over base), the ICI Paint code is p4217750 or Lotus paint code A68 or Lotus Part Number A089B6196V. This has been matched by my Norton Manxman colour with original factory part a front mudguard from a Norton Navigator - unused in its paper wrapper at Donington Park. To the guy I helped with a grub screw for his ignition switch, you're out there - so say 'Hello Anna'.

Anna J Dixon

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I have an original Manxman tank in the correct color, also somewhere have a paint mixture to match if any are interested

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Previously wrote:

I have an original Manxman tank in the correct color, also somewhere have a paint mixture to match if any are interested

Hello yes I would be Intrested in the colour But if Paint as been standing for years it goes off and loses it true colour And modern paint like acryilic even if its the same code number may end up a diffrent shade alot depends on the one who is spraying it as the air pressers and temperature may diffrent ,As this paint is tricky it match right ?

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Previously wrote:

Previously wrote:

I have an original Manxman tank in the correct color, also somewhere have a paint mixture to match if any are interested

Hello yes I would be Intrested in the colour But if Paint as been standing for years it goes off and loses it true colour And modern paint like acryilic even if its the same code number may end up a diffrent shade alot depends on the one who is spraying it as the air pressers and temperature may diffrent ,As this paint is tricky it match right ?

Anna,

i will look for that formula. it may take awhile. I didnt use it myself. A gentleman that restored a Manxman had it mixed for his use and gave it to me if i wanted to paint mine to match. I dont believe i will ever paint mine that colour. I am not a "purist" restorer. I ride em. I prefer Black so I think I may just paint the frame and accesorys black and mount my Blue Manxman tank. I like black seats too. I am sure yours is an excellent match and a Beautiful Manxman Bike. my bike had the original seat on it, someone had painted it blue on one half, right down the middle... could you send me a photo ? SPTTVB@BELLSOUTH.NET.

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Previously wrote:

Previously wrote:

Previously wrote:

I have an original Manxman tank in the correct color, also somewhere have a paint mixture to match if any are interested

Hello yes I would be Intrested in the colour But if Paint as been standing for years it goes off and loses it true colour And modern paint like acryilic even if its the same code number may end up a diffrent shade alot depends on the one who is spraying it as the air pressers and temperature may diffrent ,As this paint is tricky it match right ?

Anna,

i will look for that formula. it may take awhile. I didnt use it myself. A gentleman that restored a Manxman had it mixed for his use and gave it to me if i wanted to paint mine to match. I dont believe i will ever paint mine that colour. I am not a "purist" restorer. I ride em. I prefer Black so I think I may just paint the frame and accesorys black and mount my Blue Manxman tank. I like black seats too. I am sure yours is an excellent match and a Beautiful Manxman Bike. my bike had the original seat on it, someone had painted it blue on one half, right down the middle... could you send me a photo ? SPTTVB@BELLSOUTH.NET.

hello steve yes nice is the same colour as mine and its sprayed Lotus Pacific blue ICI paint code A68 /p4217750Norton polychromatic blue ICI paint code PO31/4863. yours Anna J Dixon

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Paint spraying techniec a gold base paint is needed to be sprayed on before the blue ,

I used Laverda Gold Base ? Hope this Helps

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Just for those who didn't know, I found out what "Polychromatic" paint consisted of when I was 11 and had my lovel Raleigh "Palm Beach Tourist" bike for my birthday - and for passing the 11-plus! (Yes - I'm THAT old!). It consists of a silver metallic base coat - (mainly because I think the only metallic paint up until the late 1950s was silver, aluminium-based) followed by a semi-translucent, coloured top coat. The metallic silver could be seen through the top-coat and gave it a metallic colour. My bike was red. I discovered how this was achieved accidentallywhen I chipped the top-coat! It was silver underneath. My first Norton was a 1955 88 in "Gunmetal" grey. So that had a silver metallic base coat with the semi-translucent grey top.

All modern metallic finishes are exactly the opposite nowadays. They have a coloured metallic base-coat with a fully translucent, clear top-coat. Often referred to as "lacquer" or "varnish". It's really just paint without pigmentation. I don't know if anyone produces a coloured semi-translucent paint nowadays. If so, that would be the way to go with restoration. Otherwise go the modern way and ALWAYS finish with a coat (or several) of clear finish. It's to prevent oxidisation of the metallic particles in the base-coat. Your final finish to any paint job should be to flatten it with 1000 or 1200 grade wet & dry - used wet - then polish with a quality body polish - or Brasso as I've found its mild cutting action useful. This tip holds for bikes, cars and guitars - I have had the experience of all of them! If you look at a restored bike or car and the paint is dull or semi-matt it's because they haven't used a clear top-coat and it's suffering (or will do) from oxidisation.

I resprayed my first car when I was 15 in 1961 - in cellulose of course! Production cars & bikes haven't used cellulose paints since the 1970s, but it's still available and most sprayshops still smell of it!

Cheers, Lionel

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hello yes that nice but polychromatic blue as a gold base coat then blue over the top then the lacquer but only three coats as two much lacquer and it will not show off the metallic particals in the paint ? your anna j dixon

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Hi Anna, we might have to agree to differ as I never saw any "gold" metallic paint in the 1950s. I don't recall ever seeing a Norton in poly blue. I come from a family of mechanics and garage owners so was quite familiar with sprayshops. Even so, it's academic if we can't reproduce polychromatic in the same way. I'm still assuming that a coloured lacqueur isn't available nowadays- unless you know different? My "mechanic family" has long since passed away so I'm not near a sprayshop any more! I'm a Civil Engineer by profession but learnt mechanics first - from the age of about 10!

Cheers, Lionel

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Previously wrote:

Hi Anna, we might have to agree to differ as I never saw any "gold" metallic paint in the 1950s. I don't recall ever seeing a Norton in poly blue. I come from a family of mechanics and garage owners so was quite familiar with sprayshops. Even so, it's academic if we can't reproduce polychromatic in the same way. I'm still assuming that a coloured lacqueur isn't available nowadays- unless you know different? My "mechanic family" has long since passed away so I'm not near a sprayshop any more! I'm a Civil Engineer by profession but learnt mechanics first - from the age of about 10!

Cheers, Lionel

hello lionel well as you see my name is Dixon does that ring any bells , Well my father was an engineer and a boiler inspector and he was freind with Denis Parkinson and his dad Bill Parkinson there Garage and sales room was at Ings Road Wakefield ,And there My great Uncle Freddie Dixon he was a Pionneer of motorcycles and car racing He was the frist man to use Disc Brakes in 1923 And devloped the Cylinder Heads on Harley Davidson 4 valves per cylinder in 1920 , just read the Book The man with a heart of a loin ,By David Mason , And I am Engineer to a Marine Engineer I was one of the first Female Engineers on ships , The metallic Gold is the base Coat it as no lacqueur in it Polychromatic blue was painted on export bikes in the 1950s like my 1954 Norton Domintor 88 the Blue was painted on the tank panals only and then used again in 1960/1 on the Norton Manxman 650 the Frist 650s built from November 7Th 1960 to October 1961, My Norton Manxman 650 was built in the dieing days of 1960 ,And exported to New York on January 13th 1961 , and gold base coat was used , I know I stripped it and re-built it and Sprayed it my self, And it the right colour , As it as been tested with new old stock part from a 1962 Norton Navigator witch was a front mudgurd that was rapped in its factory paper since 1962 ,witch had been painted Polychromatic blue By the factory , Yours Anna J Dixon ps I have been riding Norton Motorcycles from being 15 and now I am 56 and still ride Norton motorcycles and I will go on riding Nortons untill I drop off the purch ?

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Previously wrote:

Just for those who didn't know, I found out what "Polychromatic" paint consisted of when I was 11 and had my lovel Raleigh "Palm Beach Tourist" bike for my birthday - and for passing the 11-plus! (Yes - I'm THAT old!). It consists of a silver metallic base coat - (mainly because I think the only metallic paint up until the late 1950s was silver, aluminium-based) followed by a semi-translucent, coloured top coat. The metallic silver could be seen through the top-coat and gave it a metallic colour. My bike was red. I discovered how this was achieved accidentallywhen I chipped the top-coat! It was silver underneath. My first Norton was a 1955 88 in "Gunmetal" grey. So that had a silver metallic base coat with the semi-translucent grey top.

All modern metallic finishes are exactly the opposite nowadays. They have a coloured metallic base-coat with a fully translucent, clear top-coat. Often referred to as "lacquer" or "varnish". It's really just paint without pigmentation. I don't know if anyone produces a coloured semi-translucent paint nowadays. If so, that would be the way to go with restoration. Otherwise go the modern way and ALWAYS finish with a coat (or several) of clear finish. It's to prevent oxidisation of the metallic particles in the base-coat. Your final finish to any paint job should be to flatten it with 1000 or 1200 grade wet & dry - used wet - then polish with a quality body polish - or Brasso as I've found its mild cutting action useful. This tip holds for bikes, cars and guitars - I have had the experience of all of them! If you look at a restored bike or car and the paint is dull or semi-matt it's because they haven't used a clear top-coat and it's suffering (or will do) from oxidisation.

I resprayed my first car when I was 15 in 1961 - in cellulose of course! Production cars & bikes haven't used cellulose paints since the 1970s, but it's still available and most sprayshops still smell of it!

Cheers, Lionel

Permalink

Previously wrote:

Just for those who didn't know, I found out what "Polychromatic" paint consisted of when I was 11 and had my lovel Raleigh "Palm Beach Tourist" bike for my birthday - and for passing the 11-plus! (Yes - I'm THAT old!). It consists of a silver metallic base coat - (mainly because I think the only metallic paint up until the late 1950s was silver, aluminium-based) followed by a semi-translucent, coloured top coat. The metallic silver could be seen through the top-coat and gave it a metallic colour. My bike was red. I discovered how this was achieved accidentallywhen I chipped the top-coat! It was silver underneath. My first Norton was a 1955 88 in "Gunmetal" grey. So that had a silver metallic base coat with the semi-translucent grey top.

All modern metallic finishes are exactly the opposite nowadays. They have a coloured metallic base-coat with a fully translucent, clear top-coat. Often referred to as "lacquer" or "varnish". It's really just paint without pigmentation. I don't know if anyone produces a coloured semi-translucent paint nowadays. If so, that would be the way to go with restoration. Otherwise go the modern way and ALWAYS finish with a coat (or several) of clear finish. It's to prevent oxidisation of the metallic particles in the base-coat. Your final finish to any paint job should be to flatten it with 1000 or 1200 grade wet & dry - used wet - then polish with a quality body polish - or Brasso as I've found its mild cutting action useful. This tip holds for bikes, cars and guitars - I have had the experience of all of them! If you look at a restored bike or car and the paint is dull or semi-matt it's because they haven't used a clear top-coat and it's suffering (or will do) from oxidisation.

I resprayed my first car when I was 15 in 1961 - in cellulose of course! Production cars & bikes haven't used cellulose paints since the 1970s, but it's still available and most sprayshops still smell of it!

Cheers, Lionel

hello lionel In 1954 the Model 88 Polychromatic gray had Gold In it, But was Changed 1955 for silver as it was cheper ???

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I'm not arguing Anna! As I said, I personally never saw or heard of a gold metallic paint in the 1950s - base-coat or otherwise. I know that Norton certainly didn't use it in 1955 as my '88' was grey poly and I still have some bits of it left! I'm surprised they ever used gold as it would give a completely different colour - darker for a start. My 'mechanics' days really started in around 1958 when I was relining the asbestos brake shoes on my Dad's 1939 Vauxhall 12! Are you saying that semi-translucent coloured "lacqueur" is still available? If this is the case then a true replica of polychromatic paint could still be done today. All shades of metallic paint are available now.

Yes, I HAVE heard of Freddie Dixon - bless 'im!

Cheers, Lionel

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Previously wrote:

... as you see my name is Dixon does that ring any bells ... my great Uncle Freddie Dixon he was a pioneer of motorcycles and car racing...

I don't know if you're aware but there's a photo of him in the May copy of The Classic Motorcycle in a piece by Graham Walker (reprinted from many years ago by the looks of things) on the 1921 Senior TT. Certainly seems to have been one heck of a race.

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Hello yes I do know all about my great Uncle Freddie Dixon life story You know he held me in his arms when I was a baby Your Anna J Dixon

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Previously wrote:

Previously wrote:

... as you see my name is Dixon does that ring any bells ... my great Uncle Freddie Dixon he was a pioneer of motorcycles and car racing...

I don't know if you're aware but there's a photo of him in the May copy of The Classic Motorcycle in a piece by Graham Walker (reprinted from many years ago by the looks of things) on the 1921 Senior TT. Certainly seems to have been one heck of a race.

hello yes seen it on Pathe new reel old black and white film is a great film too watch ? YOURs Anna J Dixon

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Previously wrote:

Hello to all who need the X match for Polychromatic Blue. The Paint is a Lotus colour, Pacific Blue Metallic. In '2 Pack' (that's lacquer over base), the ICI Paint code is p4217750 or Lotus paint code A68 or Lotus Part Number A089B6196V. This has been matched by my Norton Manxman colour with original factory part a front mudguard from a Norton Navigator - unused in its paper wrapper at Donington Park. To the guy I helped with a grub screw for his ignition switch, you're out there - so say 'Hello Anna'.

Anna J Dixon

up date ICI code Number P4217750 Is the Original Norton Manxman Paint Pain Code

The Paint Code A68- A089B6196V Is the Lotus Pacific Blue Pain code ,witch Is the nearest Match ,But GOLD Base Coat Must Sprayed on first then the Lotus pacific Blue on top of the gold untill the green ting as gone ,but it must sparyed in thin coats do not try too spary it all in one go you will spoil it let it dry for 24 hours inbeween coats ,3 to 4 thinish coats should do it the last coats are lacqure thin coats agane 3 to 4 thinish coats If anything goes wrong then let it dry do not touch when wet , when its dry you can rubb down and starts agane ?? Air Gun use a small gravity feed gun is the best of motorcycle paint work its as less over spary,One Big Thing You MUST DO is to KEEP ALL PAINTING AREAS CLEAN ??? And Free From Dust NEXT Temperture YOU Must Have a Room Temerture At 60F or just above , Do NOT Spary When the Room Temperture is below 60F Hope this Helps Your Anna J Dixon

Permalink

Previously wrote:

Hello to all who need the X match for Polychromatic Blue. The Paint is a Lotus colour, Pacific Blue Metallic. In '2 Pack' (that's lacquer over base), the ICI Paint code is p4217750 or Lotus paint code A68 or Lotus Part Number A089B6196V. This has been matched by my Norton Manxman colour with original factory part a front mudguard from a Norton Navigator - unused in its paper wrapper at Donington Park. To the guy I helped with a grub screw for his ignition switch, you're out there - so say 'Hello Anna'.

Anna J Dixon

up date ICI code Number P4217750 Is the Original Norton Manxman Paint Code

The Paint Code A68- A089B6196V Is the Lotus Pacific Blue Pain code ,witch Is the nearest Match ,But GOLD Base Coat Must Sprayed on first then the Lotus pacific Blue on top of the gold untill the green ting as gone ,but it must sparyed in thin coats do not try too spary it all in one go you will spoil it let it dry for 24 hours inbeween coats ,3 to 4 thinish coats should do it the last coats are lacqure thin coats agane 3 to 4 thinish coats If anything goes wrong then let it dry do not touch when wet , when its dry you can rubb down and starts agane ?? Air Gun use a small gravity feed gun is the best of motorcycle paint work its as less over spary,One Big Thing You MUST DO is to KEEP ALL PAINTING AREAS CLEAN ??? And Free From Dust NEXT Temperture YOU Must Have a Room Temerture At 60F or just above , Do NOT Spary When the Room Temperture is below 60F Hope this Helps Your Anna J Dixon

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Remember to count the number of coats used as a base and ensure the same number of base coats is used on all parts of the same colour. I have been told that failing to do this will give different colour finishes.

Permalink

Previously wrote:

Previously wrote:

Just for those who didn't know, I found out what "Polychromatic" paint consisted of when I was 11 and had my lovel Raleigh "Palm Beach Tourist" bike for my birthday - and for passing the 11-plus! (Yes - I'm THAT old!). It consists of a silver metallic base coat - (mainly because I think the only metallic paint up until the late 1950s was silver, aluminium-based) followed by a semi-translucent, coloured top coat. The metallic silver could be seen through the top-coat and gave it a metallic colour. My bike was red. I discovered how this was achieved accidentallywhen I chipped the top-coat! It was silver underneath. My first Norton was a 1955 88 in "Gunmetal" grey. So that had a silver metallic base coat with the semi-translucent grey top.

All modern metallic finishes are exactly the opposite nowadays. They have a coloured metallic base-coat with a fully translucent, clear top-coat. Often referred to as "lacquer" or "varnish". It's really just paint without pigmentation. I don't know if anyone produces a coloured semi-translucent paint nowadays. If so, that would be the way to go with restoration. Otherwise go the modern way and ALWAYS finish with a coat (or several) of clear finish. It's to prevent oxidisation of the metallic particles in the base-coat. Your final finish to any paint job should be to flatten it with 1000 or 1200 grade wet & dry - used wet - then polish with a quality body polish - or Brasso as I've found its mild cutting action useful. This tip holds for bikes, cars and guitars - I have had the experience of all of them! If you look at a restored bike or car and the paint is dull or semi-matt it's because they haven't used a clear top-coat and it's suffering (or will do) from oxidisation.

I resprayed my first car when I was 15 in 1961 - in cellulose of course! Production cars & bikes haven't used cellulose paints since the 1970s, but it's still available and most sprayshops still smell of it!

Cheers, Lionel

hello lionel In 1954 the Model 88 Polychromatic gray had Gold In it, But was Changed 1955 for silver as it was cheper ???

thats very interesting , i always wondered why the shades were different , my brothers 59 poly grey was lighter so i guess it was silver underneath , this clubs a gold mine( if you'll excuse the pun )

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Previously wrote:

Remember to count the number of coats used as a base and ensure the same number of base coats is used on all parts of the same colour. I have been told that failing to do this will give different colour finishes.

hello yes rob that right that why you buy more paint than you need the rest is for the odd touch up as long as you keep the bike ? yours anna j dixon

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Previously wrote:

Hi Anna, we might have to agree to differ as I never saw any "gold" metallic paint in the 1950s. I don't recall ever seeing a Norton in poly blue. I come from a family of mechanics and garage owners so was quite familiar with sprayshops. Even so, it's academic if we can't reproduce polychromatic in the same way. I'm still assuming that a coloured lacqueur isn't available nowadays- unless you know different? My "mechanic family" has long since passed away so I'm not near a sprayshop any more! I'm a Civil Engineer by profession but learnt mechanics first - from the age of about 10!

Cheers, Lionel

hi loinel export model 7 and export 88 for 1952 to1954 was in light polychromatic blue for information and all they painted in post office red too with black and white pinstrip lineing for the panaling on the tank and had a light grey top seat coverwith dark grey sides and white pipeing allso there was chrome mudguards as a custom option , made to order , from Norton Motors LTDBracebridge street , as special parts not list in the parts manual , hope this helps

the USA and Canada Got all the special parts as well as the bikes , when Norton,s listed a bike for export it got the best parts avalable and us brits got the black and silver bike,s built with any old thing would do ? its for the british market ? us lot would put up with anything as long as it runsOK , and got you from A TO B , Thats what Norton thought we wanted how wrong they where , managers still had the mentallaty from the war years ??? yours Anna J Dixon

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Previously wrote:

Hi Anna, we might have to agree to differ as I never saw any "gold" metallic paint in the 1950s. I don't recall ever seeing a Norton in poly blue. I come from a family of mechanics and garage owners so was quite familiar with sprayshops. Even so, it's academic if we can't reproduce polychromatic in the same way. I'm still assuming that a coloured lacqueur isn't available nowadays- unless you know different? My "mechanic family" has long since passed away so I'm not near a sprayshop any more! I'm a Civil Engineer by profession but learnt mechanics first - from the age of about 10!

Cheers, Lionel

hi lionel theres photo of 1953 domie 88 in polylight blue

Attachments gowdel-2009-075.jpg
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Thanks for all the info Anna - it's a shame that I don't like that poly light blue! I think it looks really strange on a Norton! I think I saw one in that colour many years ago at a Norton Day at the Toddington Railway (GWR?) centre. Along with various efforts at the standard Norton poly dark grey (my first 88 was that colour and I still have some original parts left). One of these had a distinct pink tinge - perhaps it had a gold basecoat? It's years since I've done any serious respraying or have been to a paint suppliers but then they were able to mix paint and colour match any sample on the premises. I don't know it that's still the case. It was certainly MUCH cheaper than getting an aerosol cancustom made, but only useful if you have a compressor and spray equipment.

When I did my first strip and rebuild to my 99 i used cellulose paint (in 1965 remember) andmy Mum's very expensive and very newElectrolux vacuum cleaner! I bet that will puzzle a few readers! GO on - ask me about it!

Cheers, Lionel

 


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