Hi there,
I have changed my TT 9 carb for an AMAL MK1 just to make the bike more useable, but I don't know what main jet to use. I started with a 270 and then a 230, but still my plug is shooting up quickly. I know that rich is better than lean, but this is causing poor running and even poorer starting, without first removing the plug and cleaning off the soot.
Has anyone for a suitable main jet for this carb/bike combination? The needle is a 106 in position 1 and I'm using a no. 4 slide.
Grateful for any thoughts on this.
Paul
Unless you are on full thr…
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Thanks for your reply, Rob…
Thanks for your reply, Robert.
The needle is a no. 106 in position 1. So it's as low as it can go. I'm having the slide changed to the equivalent of a 4.5.
I guess it's just trial and error from here?
Paul
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Adjust the pilot a bit wea…
Adjust the pilot a bit weaker,its surprising how much time its in use.And it can soot up a plug.
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Previously paul_ceurvorst…
Previously paul_ceurvorst wrote:
Hi there,
I have changed my TT 9 carb for an AMAL MK1 just to make the bike more useable, but I don't know what main jet to use. I started with a 270 and then a 230, but still my plug is shooting up quickly. I know that rich is better than lean, but this is causing poor running and even poorer starting, without first removing the plug and cleaning off the soot.
Has anyone for a suitable main jet for this carb/bike combination? The needle is a 106 in position 1 and I'm using a no. 4 slide.
Grateful for any thoughts on this.
Paul
Paul the mainjet and theneedle jet areeffectively in series. Themainjet onlycoming intofull playonce theneedleis fully withdrawn. Starting and sooting issues generally relatetopilotjet and possibly cutaway. There are plenty ofroutines on the web to showyouhow to initaly set a carb up, even from the"horses mouth", AMAL ( Burlen Fuel Systems).Followtheirguidetogetitstarting, then go through the steps togetclean running across the throttle.
To be honest the TTshould also workwith therightsettings, they were standard road equipment on 350 Inters ( 260/107/4cutaway) .
Let us know how you get on.. Willing to help whereI can...
Cheers
Jon
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Thank you Jon and Robert.…
Thank you Jon and Robert. I'll let you know how I get on.
Do you know whether there is a particular spark plug that works best in these bikes, perhaps one that works at a higher temperature?
Paul
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Previously paul_ceurvorst…
Previously paul_ceurvorst wrote:
Thank you Jon and Robert. I'll let you know how I get on.
Do you know whether there is a particular spark plug that works best in these bikes, perhaps one that works at a higher temperature?
Paul
I run a 1937 500 Manx Specon and NGK B6ES whichstaysquiteclean, long reach(19mm)copper electrode, no supression resistor. Neverhada350... ...yet
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I have a 1936 500cc all al…
I have a 1936 500cc all alloy engine in my Inter and I never could get it to run properly on NGK. Used to foul up plugs every few miles and I spent ages trying different grade plugs and altering the carburation and it just didn't seem to work, as soon as I dropped the revs for any length of time I'd knock another plug out. I went over to a Champion N5C and problem solved, think I've had the same plug in it for about 2000 miles now.
I know plenty of people that swear by NGK and won't go near a Champion, buy I'm using them on all my bikes now.
NEVER use a suppressed lead/cap with a magneto, you just make it work harder and will have to get it overhauled sooner.
Let us know how you get on
Andy
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Update on how I am getting…
Update on how I am getting on.
Went out today as it is gloriously sunny here. Bike started easily and sat at a slow idle while I got my gear on. Setting off was a bit strange with the engine threatening to stall. Advanced the ignition and that seemed to do the trick until I reached the end of the road and slowed down - cut out on me, but I managed to bump start it while I still had some momentum.
The first mile and a half were fine, but then I got the mother of all mis-fires. Missing and back firing like crazy and throttle position made no difference. Stopped to turn for home, engine cut out and wouldn't restart. Of course I didn't have a spare plug and spanner with me. Called home and my wife came to get me (I keep a collapsible trailer in the boot of my car for just this eventuality!).
When trying to restart, I noticed what looked like steam waffting out of the carb bell mouth. What could this be? Water in the fuel?
Got home and removed the plug (NGK) black with soot. I hadn't had a chance to use a lot of throttle, so I guess I can't accuse the main jet. Will try a Champion plug (does it come with the correct gap? If not, what should it be?) and see if that makes any difference, then start playing with the carb settings.
Paul
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If it will idle happily fr…
If it will idle happily from cold then its too rich. Weaken off the pilot till it falters then turn back in a 1/4 turn.Could also have a too high fuel level.
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Previously robert_tuck wro…
Previously robert_tuck wrote:
If it will idle happily from cold then its too rich. Weaken off the pilot till it falters then turn back in a 1/4 turn.Could also have a too high fuel level.
Thanks Robert. Yes, it was cold, but the idle was very slow, barely one "spark" per second with the ignition about half way advanced. Where would you have the ignition advance set?
How do I adjust the fuel height?
Paul.
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Remember Sod's law that m…
Remember Sod's law that most carburation problems are electrical! Are you happy that the spark is good?
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Letting the engine idle wh…
Letting the engine idle while you get your clobber on, isn't a good idea. This will allow the plug to start to have soot deposited on it and if there is a weak sparkthe plug will start to short out under load which will then add more soot from the unburned petrol. Though, reading above brings to mind of a very similar problem I once had. It wasn't until Iobserved the magneto throwing a feeble yellow spark across a 1/4" (6mm) gap I set up,(which a health mag shoulddo with a loud, strongblue spark),that it was evident the magneto was faulty.I had the bobbin re-wound which had initially showed no fault atmy localmaggy doctor, now all back togetherand it hasn't missed a beat since.
read all about it here. http://www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/DIY/12.htm
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Previously Paul Knapp wrot…
Previously Paul Knapp wrote:
Letting the engine idle while you get your clobber on, isn't a good idea. This will allow the plug to start to have soot deposited on it and if there is a weak sparkthe plug will start to short out under load which will then add more soot from the unburned petrol. Though, reading above brings to mind of a very similar problem I once had. It wasn't until Iobserved the magneto throwing a feeble yellow spark across a 1/4" (6mm) gap I set up,(which a health mag shoulddo with a loud, strongblue spark),that it was evident the magneto was faulty.I had the bobbin re-wound which had initially showed no fault atmy localmaggy doctor, now all back togetherand it hasn't missed a beat since.
read all about it here. http://www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/DIY/12.htm
Dan, Paul, thanks for your responses.
The magneto was overhauled in August last year (and I've only done 100 miles since then), which doesn't necessarily mean the spark is good, but on the balance of probabilities, it should be OK, unless Sod has been at it again. I'll check it anyway. Any suggestions on how I go about this single-handedly?
I certainly didn't hang around getting my gear on - not much more than being held at a red traffic light!
Thanks
Paul
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Hi Paul - have you checked…
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Hi Paul A mate of mine has…
Hi Paul
A mate of mine has a 28mm MK1 concentric that he used when he was running his 350 Inter in before going over to the TT carb. It has since done the rounds in our local VMCC section and anytime anyone is having trouble with an Inter they put that carb on as we all know it just goes on and works so if your still having problems then you know they are elsewhere!
I've just checked and when I borrowed it I made the following notes:
No. 4 Slide
220 Main
Needle in the middle
28mm bore
If you set yours up like that I wouldn't have thought you'd be far out at all. That carb has been on several bikes and once everything else is set up it starts, idles and runs perfectly. What most people have then done is put the TT carb back on and worked purely on that to try and get back to the type of running they had with the concentric.
Good luck
Andy
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Previously Andy Marks wrot…
Previously Andy Marks wrote:
Hi Paul
A mate of mine has a 28mm MK1 concentric that he used when he was running his 350 Inter in before going over to the TT carb. It has since done the rounds in our local VMCC section and anytime anyone is having trouble with an Inter they put that carb on as we all know it just goes on and works so if your still having problems then you know they are elsewhere!
I've just checked and when I borrowed it I made the following notes:
No. 4 Slide
220 Main
Needle in the middle
28mm bore
If you set yours up like that I wouldn't have thought you'd be far out at all. That carb has been on several bikes and once everything else is set up it starts, idles and runs perfectly. What most people have then done is put the TT carb back on and worked purely on that to try and get back to the type of running they had with the concentric.
Good luck
Andy
George, Andy,
Thank you.
George, the Mk1 was brand new in August, so unless anyone has experience of porous floats from new, I'll assume for now that it is OK. If it is floating OK, could there still be a problem if it floats at too high a level?
Andy, I'm now running a 230 main, 106 needle (middle pos) and No5 slide (ground for me because Burlen only goes to No4). So far, I'm pretty sure the main hasn't come into play. If it isn't electrical, pilot is looking likely.
BTW, my bike is a clubmans model, in case that makes any difference.
Thanks again to everyone who has responded. New plugs arrived today, so when my knee has recovered from my restarting efforts earlier in the week, I'll try that and also check for a strong blue spark. What should the spark plug gap be?
Paul
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Update. I have changed the…
Update.
I have changed the plugs as suggested to N5C and weakened the pilot by turning anti-clockwise (is that the right way?). Also now running on premium unleaded.
I have been out for two rides, one of 20 miles and one of 32 miles which included a run up Kop Hill just to see if I could (and I could!).
On both rides there was some misfiring but mainly only in 3rd or 4th gear at speeds above 40mph. Accelerating in first or second seemed absolutely fine, even though the throttle was probably more open than at 40mph in 3rd or 4th. Puzzling. Anyway, about two miles from home I got the dreaded mother of all misfires again and the engine died. This was just after climbing a steep hill. At this point the plug was 50 miles "old". I changed it for a new one and got home. Still misfiring, but this time probably because I forgot to advance the ignition after restarting (doh!).
Plug is still soothed up with absolutely no sign of the light brown colour I want.
So, first question, did I turn the pilot screw the correct way for weakening? Secondly, I think it's time to go smaller on the main jet, but in what increments? It's a 230 now. How big a change is it in real terms to reduce to the 220 that Andy used? Maybe I should just get a 220 and 210 and do some trial runs?
Any advice gratefully received.
Thanks for reading this missive.
Paul
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Forget messing with the ma…
Forget messing with the main jet ,that is not your problem. Make sure the choke is up and clear away. Screw the pilot air screw all the way in (gently!) how many turns was that? should be at least one and a half/two turns , Is the soot a matt black or slightly shiny? ,if shiny then the issue is oil,not fuel.
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The pilot jet only contrib…
The pilot jet only contributes up to 1/4 throttle, main jet is at full throttle. In between is the cutaway for initial opening just after the pilot and the needle and needle jet which cover 1/4 to 3/4 throttle.
So mark your throttle grip with 5 temporary marks.
shut
1/4
1/2
3/4
Full
and see where the misfire is against those marks, then tune the item that covers that mark.
Before that I would check the main jet first, once that is set correctly the rest can be adjusted to suit.
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Thank you both. Robert, th…
Thank you both.
Robert, the soot is matt black. There is no choke fitted. So I was actually making the pilot richer!
John, good idea. I'll mark up the throttle in the morning.
Paul
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Previously robert_tuck wro…
Previously robert_tuck wrote:
Forget messing with the main jet ,that is not your problem. Make sure the choke is up and clear away. Screw the pilot air screw all the way in (gently!) how many turns was that? should be at least one and a half/two turns , Is the soot a matt black or slightly shiny? ,if shiny then the issue is oil,not fuel.
Robert,
If by a "turn" you mean 360 degrees, it was 2 and 1/4.
Paul
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Spark plugs come gapped fo…
Spark plugs come gapped for car type ignition systems, way too wide for magneto systems. Gap should be .020"
Paul
Previously paul_ceurvorst wrote:
. Will try a Champion plug (does it come with the correct gap? If not, what should it be?)
Paul
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Previously paul_ceurvorst…
Previously paul_ceurvorst wrote:
Hi there,
I have changed my TT 9 carb for an AMAL MK1 just to make the bike more useable, but I don't know what main jet to use. I started with a 270 and then a 230, but still my plug is shooting up quickly. I know that rich is better than lean, but this is causing poor running and even poorer starting, without first removing the plug and cleaning off the soot.
Has anyone for a suitable main jet for this carb/bike combination? The needle is a 106 in position 1 and I'm using a no. 4 slide.
Grateful for any thoughts on this.
Paul
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Your problem is to do with…
Your problem is to do with the piston, piston rings, or cylinder bore.
Barry Stickland
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Previously barry_stickland…
Previously barry_stickland wrote:
Your problem is to do with the piston, piston rings, or cylinder bore.
Barry Stickland
Barry, I haven't had the engine apart since I've had the bike, so I don't know for sure the condition of the piston/rings/bore, butif this were the case, would I not expect to see smoke from the exhaust? I'm not aware that there is any. Also, when I remove the spark plug it is dry. Wouldn't it be wet and or shiny if oil were the problem?
Maybe I should do a compression test? Would that tell me anything?
Paul
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Hi Paul, I think Barry may…
Hi Paul,
I think Barry may have something here. My elderly Inter gave me a few problems cutting out after a few miles. Theengine has not been stripped for years and has had long periods of inactivity. I was using a KLG FE100 plug with a 14/18mm adaptor which is a harder grade than standard and this oiled up very quickly. The plug I ended up using was an Autocraft BF32 intended for the Mark 3 Ford Cortina OHC engine. This has an 18mm thread so goes straight into the early Inter engine and as it is intended for a water-cooled engine runs hotter and does not oil up. Try using a softer plug and see if there is any improvement. I think the reason for this is the piston rings sticking in their grooves and letting too much oil past and although your plug looks dry the oil mist may be snuffing out the sparks. A compression test may not give a low reading as the over oiling makes a seal when you kick it over and compression feels good. I must make time to do a top-end strip down and check this out!!
Regards, Richard.
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Our Atlas was giving simil…
Our Atlas was giving similar problems and we found that ethanol in the fuel was dissolving tank liner and coating the plugs. A drained tank ,some non eth fuel and two sets of new plugs later,we are beginning to get clear of the issue. Almost impossible to clean off the residue and get the plugs working.I'm convinced the cylinder head /piston/valves were coated and take ages to burn off.
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It has been a while (!!),…
It has been a while (!!), so I thought I'd let you know what's been happening in the last year. I gave up trying to find a suitable setting for the carb and as I knew nothing about the bike's previous service history or use, decided to get the engine stripped down so that I could eliminate piston, rings etc.. As it turned out, that was a good decision. It was like a coal mine in there! Obviously hadn't had any TLC, probably for decades. Completely worn out. No amount of carb fettling would have made this engine run well.
It's all back together again and looks fantastic. I have reverted to its original TT carb and am in the process of learning how to ride with it.
Haven't totally mastered the starting process, but I'll post elsewhere on that subject.
My thanks to all who commented on this thread.
Paul
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Unless you are on full throttle the problem will be pilot/slide/needle position.