Swinging arm damage by exhaust hanger screws

Richard, thanks for that.

With the arrangement of the mounting plates on this bike, spacers weren't really an option. It was the first thing I thought of, that and cutting back the rubber mount screws. None of it would have made any difference, because the width of the nut was enough to do minor damage at least. So a bit of creative metalwork was in order.

I had to be fairly precise though and it took a couple of goes before I got the right bends in the plates, both plates (per side) have to be shaped to get the rubber spacers properly aligned.

But the real fact was that the swinging arm was in poor shape, the cut was across the entire width of the tube. When the chap who welded it for me saw it, his first reaction was a noticeable hiss of indrawn breath followed by "B****y hell! That's not good!"

Anyway, sorted now.

I also have a lovely set of extractor/insertion tools for the bushes that he made me, that work a treat. He's a very good lad to know.

I thought of the silicon myself, which appears to work.

As you said the welch plugs just fall out, so to get them to fit, I put 'em on the anvil and clouted 'em with the 5lb persuader. One knock each flattened them, and then they did fit...

Thanks again, best wishes

Jack

Previously simon_ratcliff wrote:

I had a similar problem with my Mk3 on the drive side. Problem went away after moving complete isolastic assembly i.e front iso, engine, cradle etc to right by nearly 0.25" to get rear wheel in line with frame centre line. Rear wheel is now also central within seat/mudguard frame loop. I think they're all like this to some degree.

Simon.

Simon,

thanks for that. We checked the wheel alignment and it all seemed to be right, so what I did in the end is simply turned the (straightened) mounting plates the other way around, if you get my drift.

I was concerned that the exhaust pipes may be unduly stressed, but It worked a treat, it doesn't look too bad and will look fine when I get some dome headed chromed nuts. I'll also get some for the bike whilst I'm at it...

Thanks

Jack

Previously simon_ratcliff wrote:

Alright Jack,

you can get the wheels in line with each other with a stationary bike. But without a frame centre line ref. you can't be sure the wheels are inline with the frame. See other posting re Isolastics and head steady for mod to front iso which should improve things,

Simon.

Simon,

I think I see what you mean, to be honest I had presumed that because the rear wheel was in line with the rear isolastics/rear cradle, and the front wheel was in line with the rear wheel, AND that we had previously adjusted the isolastics, it would therefore all be in line!

(The swinging arm has been repaired and re-bushed etc, new rear wheel bearing etc; and it did all appear perfectly square.)

I will check on this, as the tank is off, I'll make another presumption - that the centre line of the upper frame tube does in fact give a "square" reference and will give me what I need to check the parallelism and any offset.

Thanks

Jack