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Sticking cam followers

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My learned friends,

re: Domi 99 (1956)

Having developed an undisernableknocking noise and bluing of my right hand exhaustI discovered by elimination that my offside exhaust cam follower was sticking in its tunnel.

The external facehad deep score marks which were removed by filing.

The other cam followers where checked and the offside inlet was also showing signs of scoring but no where near as bad as the exhaust.

Both the nearside followers where ok.

Having removed the score marks the followers were replaced and moved freely in their tunnels dropping immediately under their own weight.

Whilst the cylinder head was removed it was stripped completely and rebuilt using the same components in their original locations.

The camshaft looked to be ok and there was no play in the bearings including crank etc.

Tappets are set at 6 and 8 thou (which I've always done - slappy tappet, happy tappet and all that)

The engine was rebuilt and given a 30 mile run.

Although the performance of the bike is as good as ever, I'm still experiencing excessive mechanical noise.

I was wondering if anybody else has had a similar situation and managed to sort it out or if anyone can suggest any possible routes of investigation.

Here's hoping!

Mike

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The tappet clearance for the camshaft installed in your bike at the factory is .002" inlet and .003" exhaust. And that is the spec used on all Model 99 Nortons except for the Nomad Scrambler and SS models built in 1961 onwards. So unless a later cam has been swapped into your bike you have a lot of excess clearance there.

Of course after 56 years unless you know the history of the motorcycle, it may have parts installed in the engine different than it's original equipment. If someone in the past had it apart and back together, and made mistakes or left some shims or other parts out then the engine itself would not be a good guide for reassembly.

Filing metal off tappets is going to make them a sloppy fit? Scoring of the tappets would indicate debris, metal bits or loose casting sand, or maybe a lubrication problem.

The Dominators of that era need a restriction in the oil return to force oil up to the cylinder head. Sometimes swapping oiling system parts out for later or different ones will change the amount of oil going to the top end.

You can take off the oil filler and put your finger over the hole where oil is spitting back into the tank to force extra to the top end and see if things get more quiet. Watch because if you do this long enough you can force oil to come out of places where it is not supposed to, or maybe even blow off one end of the oil line.

Loose timing chains can make more noise than ones adjusted correctly or that are not worn so much.

Apart from incorrect assembly or some oddball parts failure that is about it.

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Hi Benjamin

Many thanks for your reply.

I have owned my domi for 20 years and this is the first time Iâve experienced this knocking noise which is different to loose tappets.

The scoring marks were removed from the cam followers not the tappets.

Oil circulation is as it should be with plenty reaching the top end.

I rechecked all the tappet clearance last night and they were found to be ok

Whilst turning the engine over (by kick start with plugs removed) the knocking noise occurred each time the exhaust valves were being depressed. This didnât happen when turning the engine over slowly.

It sounds as if the cam followers are momentarily coming off the cam and then making contact again, hence the noise.

As I said before the performance of the bike has not been affected.

Iâll open up the timing chest for a look but do not expect to find anything untoward as Iâm convinced itâs to do with the cam/cam followers

It seems like Iâll have to strip the engine again for a closer inspection having thought that the removal of the scoring and freeing the cam followers last time was going to fix the situation.

Thanks again for you comments

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Just picked up the thread on the commando section entitle "tappety noise from engine"

The noise recorded is the same as I'm experiencing

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Valve guides can be loose in the head and go up and down with the valve,should be able to see this, rockers can sieze and release.Use a metal tube to listen round the motor.Piston slap gets less as the motor warms up.

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Loose valve guides will be evident from excessive smoke in the exhaust from oil going past the guide and into the head.

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Previously wrote:

The scoring marks were removed from the cam followers not the tappets.

Surely cam followers & tappets are the same thing ? Have been all the years I've been in the trade.In the valve trainyou have the cam, followed by the cam follower (or tappet) followed by the push rod, thenthe rocker, & finaly the valve. Can you confirm which part & where on that partthe scoring was removed from ? A picture may help.

Regards, Tim

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Thanks to all for your responses.

Just to recap thecylinder head and components are all in good order. Valve guides are fixed in position and noburning of oil is taking place. Oil circulation is as it should be.

The scoring was on the cam followers.

Inspection of the timing chest last night revealed some odd movement in the top run of the cam drive chain.

The chain itself is OK and the cam drive sprocket is also OK. It seems as if some action is being applied to the cam itself to cause this odd movement as if being tapped round, hence the knocking noise

I shall remove the head to hopefully eliminate any action from there and then will probably have to remove the barrels for further inspection

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Previously wrote:

The tappet clearance for the camshaft installed in your bike at the factory is .002" inlet and .003" exhaust. And that is the spec used on all Model 99 Nortons except for the Nomad Scrambler and SS models built in 1961 onwards. So unless a later cam has been swapped into your bike you have a lot of excess clearance there.

Of course after 56 years unless you know the history of the motorcycle, it may have parts installed in the engine different than it's original equipment. If someone in the past had it apart and back together, and made mistakes or left some shims or other parts out then the engine itself would not be a good guide for reassembly.

Filing metal off tappets is going to make them a sloppy fit? Scoring of the tappets would indicate debris, metal bits or loose casting sand, or maybe a lubrication problem.

The Dominators of that era need a restriction in the oil return to force oil up to the cylinder head. Sometimes swapping oiling system parts out for later or different ones will change the amount of oil going to the top end.

You can take off the oil filler and put your finger over the hole where oil is spitting back into the tank to force extra to the top end and see if things get more quiet. Watch because if you do this long enough you can force oil to come out of places where it is not supposed to, or maybe even blow off one end of the oil line.

Loose timing chains can make more noise than ones adjusted correctly or that are not worn so much.

Apart from incorrect assembly or some oddball parts failure that is about it.

Hello Ben the tappet Settings on a Standard dominator 99 are inlet 0.003 thou and exhaust 0.005 thou of a inch and its the same for a standard or De-lux models of (88) and (99) machines yours AJD

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I'd like to attend a gathering of Norton twins expressly to compare tappetty noises (piston slap? Wide clearances? Loose push rod ends? Worn cams? Worn little ends (probably not - but maybe)? Slack timing chain?)

Probably we should just follow the simple principle - "An engine has no sense or feeling. Thrash it until it breaks -then fix it" Isn't that what Joe Craig used to say - or have I mis-read?

Ear plugs are just BRILLIANT!

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My car motor was knocking badly so i took the head and sump off,replaced big end,mains shells etc, made no difference,took it down again,still could not see the problem,drove it till it broke a few weeks later.The crank came out in two bits!!.Problem solved.

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Hi Mike, Tappets = "Cam followers". They are one and the same. At the top endare rockers and valves, where you set the valve clearance. Filing metal offollowers (as we generally call them on Nortons, though not on cars!)is NOT a good idea as theyshould bequite a close tolerance fit in the tunnels. It is possible to get the tunnels relined - then you would have to get new standard size tappets, or you can get the tunnels rebored to take oversized tappets. The former is better than the latter. You haven't said if it's possible to see what the state of the tunnels is.

I would have thought that larger tunnel clearance would give more oiling to the camshaft (a GOOD thing!) rather than upwards to the head, as Colin suggests.

There is no doubt that a large valve clearance will make a noisy "tappety" (!!) engine. As Anna says, the books settings for 88 and 99 valve clearancesis .003" inlet and .005" exhaust for all 88/99 models after 1957. This is probably better than the original 1956/58 book settings of .002" and .003".

Another obvious cause for mechanical noise is worn rockers/rocker shafts. As there was an oilproblem perhaps the exhaust rockers and shafts are sloppy? Having said that, I would have thought that it would cause more oil to drop into the combustion chambers and cause blue smoking. Did you check them when youre-assembled? The only practical way is to do it dry and twist the rocker sideways to see if there's any movement. Again, this area relies on very close clearances so the rockers shouldn't 'rock' sideways! A bit subjective obviously as it isn't easy to measure these clearances.

Cheers, Lionel

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Adding to the discussion regarding valve clearances. It is interesting to note the advice given by PL Garratt, Repair Manager, Norton Motors Ltd in his Motorcycle Maintenance and Repair Series Book. See the attachment for the full table printed in 1961/2.

In this book, the suggested clearances from 1949 to 1960 were 0.002" and 0.003" for standard engines. There is no mention of the change of cylinder head material in 1955, camshaft profile in 1956, pushrod material in 1957 and follower profile by 1961. All of which really needed someone, in authority at the Norton Factory, to rethink the valve clearances necessary. More so as Dominator owners from the start had followed the sporty bike magazine advice, of the times, with regard to adding oomph to their engines. Presumably, those in charge believed that the alloy head and pushrods would expand at the same rate and therefore a greater valve clearance was unnecessary.

W.C. Haycroft spotted the problems that were likely to arise and in his Pitman Book of the Dominator Twins, published in 1966, suggested that standard engines built after 1958 had 0.003" and 0.005" clearances and all the sporty versions 0.006" and 0.008". It was also recommended that early engines run hard and fast for long runs also had greater valve clearances.

With regard to Mike's 99 problems. I have seen camshaft followers go tight in their tunnels after being mixed up when refitting and also when the locating plates have been disturbed. The followers are like pistons and wear definite patterns into the running surfaces they act upon.

But.........as suggested by others, the real problem might lay elsewhere. eg seized rocker.

Attachments Valve-Clearances-Norton.bmp
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Interesting that Garratt'sand Haycraft's listed valve clearances were at odds with Nortons' own contemporary maintenance manuals. The earliest Norton manual showing the larger clearance wasn't until P100 for the 1959 models. P98 for 1957/58 Dominators still had .002" and .003".I used Garratt's book for my first Norton "experience" in 1964 and it has the oily fingerprints to prove it!

It's only in relatively recent years that I've started collecting all genuine Dominator manuals I can find. The only one available in 1965/66 was "the big green one", covering all current models.

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Quite a varied selection of replies and suggestions for the possible cause of my excessive noise.

Further inspection of the valve train revealed that the camshaft nut in the timing case had its point against the tab washer - not a flat

This nut was in the process of undoing itself and could have had disastrous affects.

The nut was duely tighten and lock tighted with the result of all excess noise disappearing.

I have also adjusted valve clearence to 3 and 5 thou and the bike now runs like a swiss watch.

Having had the engine apart I would like to renew the valve guides.Can anybody recommend somewherenear theKent/Sussex boarders that can perform guide replacement.

Thanks to all that took the trouble to respond.

Mike


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