Recommissioning Commando

To get rid of the rust and stop it forever try a product I have used on my Nortons it is a PPC product made in Australia and put a ceramic coating on the inside of the tank; you could get a similar product made in the UK.

Check out thier web sitehttp://www.ppc.au.com/kits3.htm

You might shine a light down the spark plug hole and see if there is any rust on the bores, If not and it turns over ok, change all the oils and filter, (and the fork oil) and put some oil into the rocker cover to lube the cam. Worth finding a tame racer with a set of start rollers and wind it over with the plugs out until you see oil returning into the top of the oil tank. Carb float bowls to clean out and check that the clutch releases. Check the tyres, there is a date of manufacture in a little oval patch eg. 4809 would be week 48 year 2009 (There was a guy at the international rally in France last year on a Commando that he had "re-commissioned" his tyres were over 30 years old, I think the back one was 35 years old. He didn't seem too bothered)

Good luck, and don't start it until you are happy that it is ready to start.

8 years isn't that long a time. My Commando started first kick after i changed the oil and cleaned the carbs. A potential problem will be a blocked pilot jet - these need to be probed with a 0.4mm wire plus carb cleaner to dislodge any varnish - but start it first to find out if you need to do this. Usually one cylinder will not fire until the throttle is opened a tad. Try Surrey Cycles for advice and carb bits if you are in the south -01342 716120

Re the tank - I cleaned out my 1932 BSA tank with old nuts and bolts and then used an ethanol proof sealer but in your case I would avoid using the sealant unless there is significant corrosion. The reason is that sealant can detach if not done properly and its a lot less hassle to try to make it work as is. Just shake with the nuts and bolts and swill out with paraffin until it comes out cleanish and then use an inline fuel filter each side until you are happy that the fuel is clean.

As to the rest - change the brake fluid and check that the pads are clean. I would pull the chain off and run it over a screwdriver to see if any links have seized. A new battery seems likely and have a good look at the tyres - new ones aren't that expensive compared the alternative scenario.

Personally, I would not use & and bolts, gravel, any other solid particles to clean a tank. If the interior is badly rusted, this could be the "last straw", and perforate the tank. A chemical rust remover is a safer option, and, if it leaks then, it would probably have leaked far worse having lumps of metal shaken inside. What is the exterior finish of the tank like? If it needs repainting, have you considered zinc plating first?

Previously martin_murphy wrote:

Hi,

I have recently bought a1972 750 commando that has been standing in a

collection for the last eight years, the engine was rebuilt and externally looks like new. However the fuel tank is heavily rusted on the inside, could someone tell me the best way of cleaning out the tank

mart

You may like to have a look at thishttp://www.nortonownersclub.org/noc-chat/general/912073892

Regards, Tim

I have a 71 Commando which has also stood in a collection since 1999.

Think about wheel bearings, will the grease have solidified? Check condition of oil pipes (mine were cracked). Replace tyres and tubes, pour oil into exhaust rocker inspection cove to lubricate cam and followers before trying to start it.

I'm assuming that isolation rubbers will be OK, I'm waiting on getting the engine running for those. My biggest problem has been replacing rotted Fibreglass tan.