Hi all. This is in regardto the clutch on my 1935 Es2. First question, should it have 5 plain plates and 5 friction. Two of the friction plates don't have inserts, they have, I think they're called bonded plates. Is this correct? Is it common practice when replacing plates to replace the plain plates as well as friction ones. Mine plain plates seem fine, but would replace if it is recommended . My clutch hasn't got a band going round the outside, I believe to keep oil out. Some picture seem to have one for my year others don't. If it should have one any idea who supplies them or has any kind member got one I could buy? Also I've run my bike for about 3k miles with no problem until recently when I couldn't get it out of drive when pulling in clutch lever. I have dismantled it and found plates wet with oil and a certain amount of what looks like grease on the drum where the plates would move. Nearly there only 2 questions to go. Some of the lugs on the friction plates,these are the external type, have on 2 or 3 plates have had the lugs worn right down, some to no lug at all. It looks like they has been hitting something as they are gouged, almost as if rough filled. I can't see anything obvious causing this i.e. rubbing on anything. Very strange. There is no play when pushing, pulling and up and down play on the clutch when on its drive shaft and the bearing seems good. Last thing, any other parts I should relpace or check when ordering the parts and who would you recommend to get good one from. I know its a big list but this is the first time I've taken it apart and just need a bit of advice so I will next time if needed. Many thanks in advance. Regards to all . Nick.
Hi Nick, I don't know any…
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Hi Nick, Your 1935 clutch…
Hi Nick,
Your 1935 clutch (3 spring)is the same one that was used up to the mid '50s so shouldn't be too much of a problem. The badly worn tabs on the friction plates and the mucky stuff on the clutch drum are probably due to the cush drive rubbers, which are housed in the clutch hub, disintegrating. These are relatively cheap but are a bit of a job to squeeze in (see other posts). You should replace the friction plates, but if you use the bonded type you should only fit 4 and 4 plain because as you noticed they aretoo thick to squeeze in 5. Also this is advantageous as it gives you more clearance for the plates to separate. Also you will be best fitting new springs, which are cheap enough if you shop around. Check the drum faces where the tabs bear against as these can get notched and will need smoothing off or if it is really bad you might have to replace it. The plain plates don't normally cause problems although they can distort in a convex shape if they become over-heated. This is difficultto trace because when they cool down they become flat again. This is normally cured by copying the Manx racing plates which are drilled and cut half way through to stress relieve them. I think RGM sell these. I wouldn't worry too much about the steel band as these were never very effective andthe SAE20 grade oil will soon get inside. Don't be frightened to grease all the sliding parts but sparingly. The hexagon plug on the chain-case is the oil level so make sure there's not too much in there.
Regards, Richard.
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There has been a fashion f…
There has been a fashion for using ATF as a primary chain lubricant. It isn't really suitable here, as it causes the clutch to become sticky. Use a plain oil, or a specialised transmission oil. High temperature grease is required on the rubbing surfaces of the cush hub and also the rollers for the clutch drum. Richard is right to highlight the cush rubbers in the clutch centre. If worn, it causes transmission snatch and can fracture the arms on the clutch centre piece.
Paul
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Previously robert_tuck wro…
Previously robert_tuck wrote:
Hi Nick, I don't know anything about early clutches but There has been loads of posts about draggy clutches. I struggled for years untill I stopped my AMC clutch hub from pressing on the sleeve gear and the drum from wobbling due to too much slop on the bearing(even with new std parts).
Thank you Robert.
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Previously richard_cornish…
Previously richard_cornish wrote:
Hi Nick,
Your 1935 clutch (3 spring)is the same one that was used up to the mid '50s so shouldn't be too much of a problem. The badly worn tabs on the friction plates and the mucky stuff on the clutch drum are probably due to the cush drive rubbers, which are housed in the clutch hub, disintegrating. These are relatively cheap but are a bit of a job to squeeze in (see other posts). You should replace the friction plates, but if you use the bonded type you should only fit 4 and 4 plain because as you noticed they aretoo thick to squeeze in 5. Also this is advantageous as it gives you more clearance for the plates to separate. Also you will be best fitting new springs, which are cheap enough if you shop around. Check the drum faces where the tabs bear against as these can get notched and will need smoothing off or if it is really bad you might have to replace it. The plain plates don't normally cause problems although they can distort in a convex shape if they become over-heated. This is difficultto trace because when they cool down they become flat again. This is normally cured by copying the Manx racing plates which are drilled and cut half way through to stress relieve them. I think RGM sell these. I wouldn't worry too much about the steel band as these were never very effective andthe SAE20 grade oil will soon get inside. Don't be frightened to grease all the sliding parts but sparingly. The hexagon plug on the chain-case is the oil level so make sure there's not too much in there.
Regards, Richard.
Thank you Richard for your time and advice. I have got a clutch kit on way from Norvil.
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Previously paul_standeven…
Previously paul_standeven wrote:
There has been a fashion for using ATF as a primary chain lubricant. It isn't really suitable here, as it causes the clutch to become sticky. Use a plain oil, or a specialised transmission oil. High temperature grease is required on the rubbing surfaces of the cush hub and also the rollers for the clutch drum. Richard is right to highlight the cush rubbers in the clutch centre. If worn, it causes transmission snatch and can fracture the arms on the clutch centre piece.
Paul
Thank you Paul for your advice. Yes I do use ATF, but not anymore now having you saying it can make the plates becoming sticky..
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Hi Nick, I don't know anything about early clutches but There has been loads of posts about draggy clutches. I struggled for years untill I stopped my AMC clutch hub from pressing on the sleeve gear and the drum from wobbling due to too much slop on the bearing(even with new std parts).