Plating tank badges

Not seen it done well, I had a petrol cap done and it was polished too much to get rid of the pimples and detail was lost plus no guarantees given against new pimples.

Talk to Derby Plating, 01332 382408, they specialize only in classic

cars and bikes, and they are the only company I trust with my plating.

They will have plenty of experience of what can be done with mazak.

Roger

Reading this:

http://www.chromerestorationspecialist.co.uk/projects/mazak-repair/

It looks a pretty difficult job and likely to loose the pimples, so I would possibly opt to powder coat it "chrome" coloured powder, perhaps even 2 pack chrome paint. As the pimpled finish is going to diffuse the light, the effect and appearance, I believe, would be very similar....Then again you might wish to achieve perfection on the badge but only you can say if it's worth it.

Similarly if I had a dented tank that was originally chromed, I might get it sprayed with a chrome effect 2 pack paint as this would allow the tank to be filled conventionally rather than have to split the tank apart and have it rebuilt at massive cost.

Les

Also:http://www.stardustcolors.co.uk/chrome-paint/686-chrome-spray-paint.html

OR...you can do something similar yourself via Gateros Plating kits (or others). They also recommend filling pits with solder - after chemical cleaning. Then you can nickel-plate and copper plate, polishing as necessary in between [gaterosplating.co.uk/Photo-Gallery.php] This method also applies to steel parts and I intend to try it on my Dommie tank panels - when I get my new workshop up and running! I have actually bought new, chromed tank panels but anything I restore is worth money! At a commercial plating works copper is normally the first layer but it involves serious and dangerous chemicals so the home kits start with nickel - which you can build up to any thickness, as you can with copper. With Mazak (Sometimes also called "Zamak") you can strip the old plating and plate with a "flash plate" of nickel and copper before applying solder.

Many years ago my Dad repaired the steel tank of my first Norton - a 1955 '88' - with solder, so there are optional stages at which you can apply it.

I hope to be able to offer NOC Members a trial service of zinc, nickel and copper plating for small items, once I have set up my system. E.g. after tinware has been stripped/blasted I intend to zinc-plate before painting, even if the item is pitted and/or holed - like my original battery box lid. Filler and primer can be applied to the zinc-plate.