Oil pressure relief valve

I?m at the same stage. I doubted if the spring was the correct one, although the shape shows that the larger end of the conical spring matches the dished shape of the screw.

More difficult seems to be if the oil flow reaches all the parts needed, i.e. the mainshaft jet, the cam wheels through the small hole above the relief valve, and the rear cylinder wall after passed the intrincated oil passages. Needless to say if the oil pump is well settled to the crankcase body. To avoid the risk of closing the oil holes of the pump body, I will put a paper gasket between bodies.

Why not fit with a suitable nipple, an oil pressure gauge instead of the screw located at the rear of the crankcase?

Hans from Chile.

Previously Dan Field wrote:

Russell's think they have one and are going to try to dig it out over the weekend. Fingers crossed !

I to have been having oil flow problems. I suspect the pressure relief valve and as yet have not removed the body. The engine is in the frame and I am wondering how hard is it to remove the body.

Previously Dan Field wrote:

It's not too hard Peter, assuming yours is a ES2 you have to remove the mag chain and sprockets (which means you'll have to reset the timing when you put it back together!) then you can remove the timing case. There is a plunger and Spring to make sure you don't lose , and above that there is a slotted screw with a small hole drilled in it, this is the pressure relief valve, this is locked in place by the aluminium case being punched into the screw slot. It's difficult to get it out without damage but it will come out. Under it is a ball and Spring .... and in my case a load of gunk! You'll need a new washer for the oil pump for reassembly, I am also buying a new Spring and screw. Make sure it all goes in the right order, screw it home then back 1.5 turns and lock in place as before - jobs done .... and reassemble. The oil pump washer is the same as the one on the level screw on an amc gearbox.

Dan

Thanks for the reply Dan. My bike is a '57 Inter and the by-pass valve is under the magneto shelf and goesintothe crankcase. I have had the screw, lock nut, spring and ball out and assume it is original. It still seems to be bypassing oil, as I can see oil returning to oil tank, even when adjusted to 1 1/2 turns. I am thinking that I will adjust the valve right down and see how that goes. Failing that, I am looking at pulling the oil pump out.

Thanks again,

Peter

Hi Peter, I may be missing something here, but the oil returning to the oil tank that you seeis surely the scavenged oil from the bottom of the crank case, thisbeing part of the oil circulation process.

Regards,

Paul

oops, pressed the button twice.

Previously Paul Knapp wrote:

Hi Peter, I may be missing something here, but the oil returning to the oil tank that you seeis surely the scavenged oil from the bottom of the crank case, thisbeing part of the oil circulation process.

Regards,

Paul

I didn't mention that I am having trouble getting oil to the cam box.

Peter

Hi Peter.

The cammys are very different from the pushrod engines. The adjuster screw under the mag platform should as you say be adjusted 1.5 turns from fully home. You also have an adjuster to control the feed to the back of the barrel, I found on my inter that this was too far out, so all the oil was running up the back of the barrel instead of up to the cambox. Try leaving the one under the mag platform alone and winding the one next to the barrel in and see if you get a feed to the cambox then. I have seen suggestions that the feed to the back of the barrel can be shut right off as with modern oils the splash from the crankcases is enough. I didn't go this far but you can afford to restrict it a bit to ensure a good supply to the cambox.

You should fit a pressure guage in the cambox feed and you look to be getting about 8psi when hot or 10-12psi when cold (best done when hot, modern oils probably don't behave the same as old ones and most of the engine running will be while hot so get it right then)

If you're not sure whether or not you have the right parts fitted they are all available from Paul Norman. The oil pumps are a pain to get in and out on the Inters so I'd try playing with the adjustment a little more first.

Good luck

Andy

Previously Andy Marks wrote:

Hi Peter.

The cammys are very different from the pushrod engines. The adjuster screw under the mag platform should as you say be adjusted 1.5 turns from fully home. You also have an adjuster to control the feed to the back of the barrel, I found on my inter that this was too far out, so all the oil was running up the back of the barrel instead of up to the cambox. Try leaving the one under the mag platform alone and winding the one next to the barrel in and see if you get a feed to the cambox then. I have seen suggestions that the feed to the back of the barrel can be shut right off as with modern oils the splash from the crankcases is enough. I didn't go this far but you can afford to restrict it a bit to ensure a good supply to the cambox.

You should fit a pressure guage in the cambox feed and you look to be getting about 8psi when hot or 10-12psi when cold (best done when hot, modern oils probably don't behave the same as old ones and most of the engine running will be while hot so get it right then)

If you're not sure whether or not you have the right parts fitted they are all available from Paul Norman. The oil pumps are a pain to get in and out on the Inters so I'd try playing with the adjustment a little more first.

Good luck

Andy

I'mwith Andy here,the adjuster under theplatform is oil presurerelief... excess pressure! thatwould benice.

The barrelmist bar will reduceyour cam boxflowslightly but ifit was takingalot of flowyouwouldsee it coming out theexhaust pipe. Thepresures andy refers to at thecam box isconsistantwith mine, I run an in line presure gauge "Tee'd" into thercam boxfeed. Are you centre fedorside fed camshaft? andwhat isthe issueyou are trying to address? Itsall splash up thereyouknow, dont wantgallons of the stuff upyour trouser leg

Previously jonathan_newton wrote:

Previously Andy Marks wrote:

Hi Peter.

The cammys are very different from the pushrod engines. The adjuster screw under the mag platform should as you say be adjusted 1.5 turns from fully home. You also have an adjuster to control the feed to the back of the barrel, I found on my inter that this was too far out, so all the oil was running up the back of the barrel instead of up to the cambox. Try leaving the one under the mag platform alone and winding the one next to the barrel in and see if you get a feed to the cambox then. I have seen suggestions that the feed to the back of the barrel can be shut right off as with modern oils the splash from the crankcases is enough. I didn't go this far but you can afford to restrict it a bit to ensure a good supply to the cambox.

You should fit a pressure guage in the cambox feed and you look to be getting about 8psi when hot or 10-12psi when cold (best done when hot, modern oils probably don't behave the same as old ones and most of the engine running will be while hot so get it right then)

If you're not sure whether or not you have the right parts fitted they are all available from Paul Norman. The oil pumps are a pain to get in and out on the Inters so I'd try playing with the adjustment a little more first.

Good luck

Andy

I'mwith Andy here,the adjuster under theplatform is oil presure relief... excess pressure! thatwould benice.

The barrelmist bar will reduceyour cam boxflowslightly but ifit was takingalot of flowyouwouldsee it coming out theexhaust pipe. Thepresures andy refers to at thecam box isconsistantwith mine, I run an in line presure gauge "Tee'd" into thercam boxfeed. Are you centre fedorside fed camshaft? andwhat isthe issueyou are trying to address? Itsall splash up thereyouknow, dont wantgallons of the stuff upyour trouser leg

Thanks for all the comments. I got to the bottom of the problem. The pressure indictor body was not screwed all the way home. I was unaware that this also acts as a oil isolation valve and with the indicator not all the way home, oil supply was partially isolated. I used a battery drill and a made up fitting to drive the oil pump and adjust the cam box pressure.

Cheers,

Peter

no problem Dan give pushrod performance a ring and ask the question. http://www.pushrod-performance.co.uk/contact.htm

Hi Dan,

The recess of the screw is an indicator of which part of the spring should be set, and this is the wide end of it. Otherwise the screw would have a narrower seat for the spring.

Hans from Chile.

Previously jonathan_newton wrote:

Previously Andy Marks wrote:

Hi Peter.

The cammys are very different from the pushrod engines. The adjuster screw under the mag platform should as you say be adjusted 1.5 turns from fully home. You also have an adjuster to control the feed to the back of the barrel, I found on my inter that this was too far out, so all the oil was running up the back of the barrel instead of up to the cambox. Try leaving the one under the mag platform alone and winding the one next to the barrel in and see if you get a feed to the cambox then. I have seen suggestions that the feed to the back of the barrel can be shut right off as with modern oils the splash from the crankcases is enough. I didn't go this far but you can afford to restrict it a bit to ensure a good supply to the cambox.

You should fit a pressure guage in the cambox feed and you look to be getting about 8psi when hot or 10-12psi when cold (best done when hot, modern oils probably don't behave the same as old ones and most of the engine running will be while hot so get it right then)

If you're not sure whether or not you have the right parts fitted they are all available from Paul Norman. The oil pumps are a pain to get in and out on the Inters so I'd try playing with the adjustment a little more first.

Good luck

Andy

I'mwith Andy here,the adjuster under theplatform is oil presure relief... excess pressure! thatwould benice.

The barrelmist bar will reduceyour cam boxflowslightly but ifit was takingalot of flowyouwouldsee it coming out theexhaust pipe. Thepresures andy refers to at thecam box isconsistantwith mine, I run an in line presure gauge "Tee'd" into thercam boxfeed. Are you centre fedorside fed camshaft? andwhat isthe issueyou are trying to address? Itsall splash up thereyouknow, dont wantgallons of the stuff upyour trouser leg

Thanks to all for your help. I have managed to get to the bottom of it all. It turns out that the pressure indicator is also an oil isolation valve, I guess to help with wet sumping. The body of this valve was not all the way in, blocking the oil passages. Screwed it all the way home and all was well. I made a tool to fit my battery drill and drive the oil pump which helped to find the problem and made adjusting the cam box pressure very easy.

Peter