Norton girder fork damper question.

Hi Nicholas,

there is a friction disc in each side, when the nut is tightened these get squeezed and there is more friction.

With zero damping (friction) the front end would be like a pogo stick bouncing along.

The problem with friction damping is that the coefficient of friction is typically higher a low movement speeds, so too tight and small bumps are harsh, but big bumps can still have you bouncing along.

The other trick is too much grease on that spindle and the discs can get coated in grease, not very helpful for the friction.

cheers

iain

How does one over come this problem?

Previously ian_cordes wrote:

Previously George Phillips wrote:

How does one over come this problem?

Invent hydraulically damped telescopic forks, George...!

Fit a hydraulic damper inside the spring box ,like some rudge's have.

A far more sensible answer than mine, Robert!

Ian

I have to confirm that finding the right setting is not easy as it does vary with the speed and that yes overgreasing the forks is a no no as it results in the friction disc's being totally inefective untill they jam solid. A concealed hydraulic damper is on my list.

On the Rudge the suspension only seems to "work" at speed ,say over 60 mph ( it is after all a near copy of a Grand Prix machine) , the damper is only lightly applied otherwise on a bumpy road you are well and truly banged about. Less racy bikes may have better low speed action. Tire pressures are lower than modern bikes .

1930s Norton forks with the rebound springs fitted are really rather good and don't need a lot of side-damping.

On the WD bikes for some reason they deleted the hand wheel and any adjustment has to be done with a hexagon nut which doesn't make it so easy when on the move (perhaps this was the intention ?)

I find that with a gloved hand on the hex, I can slightly over-tighten it and then need to back off just a fraction.

It should really just be providing some resistance to counteract the tendency to pogoing oscillation that can occur over a sequence of irregularities or if you become airborne and land nose first.

I don't like much steering damper either for normal riding. Just a tiny bit of drag.

The spindle is (the hexagon head of which you're seeing) has a shoulder and is threaded into the left hand link. It should not therefore turn and the nut on the left hand end is purely a locknut.

The hand adjuster should be able to turn freely until it is fully in or out. There is a star shaped spring behind it with a detent in the side plate.

If it won't move, the problem will most likely be corrosion. Without knowing the condition of the bike, it's difficult to advise but I would certainly think that the forks need a through inspection as if they are not correctly assembled and lubricated, they may not be safe.

You could try trickling some penetrating oil around the spindle head in the hope that it will work down the threaded section.