Model 50 Distributor Sprocket Removal

No need to buy one. Lay a bar or thick spanner inside the filming case.Use another spanner or stout screwdriver wedged under the sprocket and upon the wedge you have created.

A sharp tap with your palm will remove the sprocket.

As you will know,it is not really a distributor,more a points housing.

good luck.

Ps.If you mean the lower sprocket..my own m50 sprocket comes off using the same method.

If not,make up a flat bar.Drill two holes large enough for two strong pieces of strong round bar bent at 90degree to pass behind the sprocket. ensure that the section passing through the holes in the bar are threaded.

Place over the shaft securing the sprocket and tighten each arm equally.This should draw off the sprocket.

I am sorry it has not worked. to be clear..you are talking of the distributor sprocket?

if so my initial post should work.Certainly my unit comes undone easily by this method.

I assume yours may be seized therefore judicious use of heat and/or penetrating fluid should help.

The sprocket is not keyed,unlike the lower item.There is a shallow taper..no thread internally. it is simply retained by a bolt and washer.

If very tight there is another method but not recommended as great care must be exercised. Slacken the retaining clamp for the distributor.Unscrew the securing bolt for the top sprocket..not fully.Back it out About four threads then tap the bolt gently until the sprocket moves on the taper..I do not recommend this method as if you get it wrong it is possible to damage the distributor and casing. this worked for me on my last m50 but is virtually what you have already tried.

Lucas 18 d1 units are not easy to find.

Greetings from South Australia, The singles guru Mike Pembertonâs video has an excellent method of sprocket removal, which has been successfully used many times. Loosen the 18D1 sprocket drive nut a turn or so, not much, apply pressure from behind the sprocket with a small pry bar; see an example figure one within enclosed .PDF. Put some pressure on the back of the sprocket via the pry bar and give the nut a sharp tap with a copper mallet, the sprocket should break taper easily. I have a 1961 Model 50 and during a long overdue restoration Mikeâs method was used with no issues. My inlet camshaft drive sprocket to 18D1 pointâs chain-drive was a very different matter. In the end I made a puller from piece of flat steel 3/8 (10mm) or thereabouts thick. Centre drilled and tapped; used a 10 diameter mm socket head screw, with a ground taper to ensure the puller centre screw would not burr or damage the camshaft threads. You could then drill at suitable locations on the flat bar (to match sprocket teeth), but I slotted mine to give some flexibility; see figure 2 onwards. ?â Whitworth (or similar) hex set screws, ~ 1 ?âlong were used and the set screw heads were tucked behind the sprocket once the chain is off. Placed bolts through puller plate and finger tightened the wing nuts (because I had some), however ordinary nuts would be fine. Hold puller carefully and tighten centre hex cap screw. Once good and tight, give the loosened nut (same as previous operation) a sharp tap with a copper mallet and that should do the trick. Otherwise some Loctite freeze nâ release spray may help but any heat should be used very carefully. My M-50 restoration story was published in a late 2015 RoadHolder, sorry not sure which edition but latter part of the year, which included some detailed pictures of the 18D1 reconditioning, this is not a difficult operation. Good luck.

Regards Steve

Hi Mike

I don't have a distributor model single but I guess the sprocket size and access must be similar to the magdyno models. For those I use a 1506 puller from Beta tools, see photo. A solidly made item which does the job for me. I bought mine from Andy Molnar but it looks as if you should be able to order on-line from Beta.

http://www.beta-tools.co.uk/

Ian McD

Hi Mike,

Not wishing to push products (and I have no affiliations to Henkel / Loctite) but this product works very well, I have successfully used this on rusty and clean but seized fasteners:

http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_HTML.htm?nodeid=8802649931777

Use the puller, place under tension apply product as per instructions and hopefully it will part. However if these components are under a lot of pressure keep yourself away, because potential shrapnel (puller / sprocket etc.) can be very nasty!

Good luck.

Rgds Steve

To minimise (but maybe not eliminate completely) shrapnel damage just slacken the sprocket nut rather than remove completely. That way at least one of the components is restrained.