Missing one ES2 Clutch Spring Screw

Hi Grant, I have spare clutch spring screws from a '56 clutch if that helps. These screws have separate washers though. You might like to consider replacing all 3 studs in the hub with the later AMC versions. The advantage is that they allow adjustment of the individual spring tension which helps the pressure plate to lift parallel to the rest of the clutch assembly. Russell Motors supplied my studs but I'm sure our other suppliers would also have them. Please get in touch via PM if you would like me send the screws.

Cheers, Ian McD

Previously grant_macneill wrote:

My 1951 ES2 is missing one clutch spring screw: two are original

and the third one is a misc modern bolt and washer

Part number A2/403

This hex bolt seems to be unique to the Plunger frame and earlier Clutches. l

bolt is made with a formed-in washer as part of the bolt;

see photos

Does anybody know of a supplier who has this part.

I've exhausted my options; Andover, Norvil, etc etc

Perhaps somebody has a used one kicking around in their junk box they might sell me ?

Thanks !! Grant MacNeill, Toronto

NOC Shop £12.50 a set. Check it out on the left panel 4th button down.

J

Hi Grant, those individual set screws that your machine has are not adjusters, but aremeant to be screwed right down hard, only utilising the 'top hat' to hold the pressure plate with an even lift. With a bit of wobble caused by side clearance in the main shaft tunnel, the pressure plate won't lift square. Best to look into the later studs set up with the individual tensioning nuts (fit your special driver). Ian Mac's post above mentions this modification, which will allow individual spring tensions to be set giving a much truer lift of the pressure plate.I did this mod to over come persistent clutch drag, and enabled me to get the lift plate to within .003" run out making better 1st. gear engagement ETC. Other manufacturers , Triumph, AJS/Matchless, Ariel, Levis ETChad their clutches set up this way.

Paul

Later one (post 56) is astud mounted in the hub with a nut yourun down it to the tension required. The earlier one is a tapped receiver that you screw a bolt into. The post 56 has analuminium nut has slots to the side to fit a forked driver into, the head is wide and the threaded part long; the tension keeps the nut in place.

With theearlier design the three screws screw into the hub up to the shoulder and lock, its like a fixed length rod. There were a couple of lengths depending on model, Its intention was always to betight, any fretting in the thin hub plate if left loose would destroy the hub eventually.

As with all things adjustable there is room for operator error or attempts to compensate for out of tolerance components, so the early models work well for me as long as they are on square section springs.

Cheers

Jon

The AMC nuts have a "pip" formed in the flange. This catches on the end of the spring, you can hear it click on every turn as you screw it on. In effect this acts as a detent so that the nut does not unscrew itself in service. If you don't fully tighten the Norton spring screw it could loosen. In my experience that didn't happen but when the time came to replace the clutch plates I decided to go for the AMC stud mod anyway.

Ian McD